Juniper help!
- Thread starter Zac chandanais
- Start date
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
You actually need to mess it up a lot. It appears to be either a Procumbens Juniper that has been staked into an upright or it is a San Jose. Hard to tell the difference from a photo. Here is what I would do. You are not going to be able to make a good bonsai out of the tree without cutting out a lot of the stuff that probably attracted you in the first place; mainly the curvy trunk above a kind of straight trunk. There is a good solution to this conundrum if you are interested in learning how to air layer?
Zac chandanais
Mame
I'm definitely interested in trying! What did you have in mind?
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
You should contemplate air layering the tree in two places giving you three trees. First air layer above the first major foliage mass and half way between that mass and the next. Second layer half way between the second mass and the next major curve above that point. This will give you three trees with some pretty good possibilities.
Zac chandanais
Mame
Great idea! Thanks a lot! I'll get started asap and provides updates.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Yep but the 2 air layer levels can't be done on the trunk otherwise the sap will be block at the upper level and nothing will get to the lower one, no?
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
No.
Sap as water and minerals from the roots, is drawn up through the wood (xylem) by the foliage. This path remains intact.
Sap as auxin and photosynthate (sugars that actually feed the tree) go down in the cambium and phloem (aka 'inner bark') which is removed at the girdle(s). The accumulation of auxin and photosynthate at the top of a girdle is what drives the process of making roots.
Zac chandanais
Mame
What is the best thing to use inside of the plastic? I've heard of using moss. Is this the best way?
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Damp sphagnum is the standard (not peat). It is most commonly used for household orchids.You can get it at a big box store (e.g., Home Depot). You put it over the girdle and wrap it up with some kind of polyethylene film (e.g., saran, visqueen, a split zip lock bag).
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Layers "in-line" generally will not work; basically for the reason you described.
I also wouldn't have the patience or interest in investing that much effort into a thin procumbens. I'd suggest watching a couple Ryan Neil videos on bending trunks, get some raffia and stout wire and twist that trunk into a small, compacted, interesting trunk line.
Zac chandanais
Mame
I was thinking about trying that. It just seems difficult because it is so long. Is it possible to bend the top of the "s" curve down to the first curve of the main trunk and "fuse them together and eventually get rid of the middle section and maybe make a Jin out of the fat stump left sticking out the side? Or is fusing the to trunks not possible?
Zac chandanais
Mame
Would that be considered grafting?
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
I agree that this is a better idea than attempting a bunch of air layers with this tree (IMHO, maples and elms are good species to with which to learn air layering).
Also, take a look at what Pavel Slovak did with a lanky sabina juniper from his garden for a little inspiration (note that I am not suggesting that you try to copy what he made, but that you, Zac, see how bending, bending, and bending some more can get the foliage in the right places to make a beautiful bonsai).
Giga
Masterpiece
Here's a crazy idea for you to play on theirs, phoenix graft the straight part of the trunk and then raffia and thick copper and bend the long trunk back down and close.
Zac chandanais
Mame
I'm not sure I know what you mean giga. Sorry :/ could explain?
Giga
Masterpiece
best bet would be to google tanuki bonsai or phoenix graft bonsai and read up on that
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
You do the process in two stages. It does not matter which one you do first. If you do the lowest one first you will at least have opportunity to work on the base tree first. I don't know what the fuss is all about, these trees root well and quickly. A tanuki graft??? Let's ruin the tree. A good tanuki is almost as rare as a yamadori Shimpaku found in Florida.
If push comes to shove and you do not want to deal with all of these "cute and sexy" solutions you can always chop the tree off at the point where some of the bends start to become obvious. The curves in the upper portion of this tree will never make a decent bonsai. By the time your experience and eye has developed enough to know what's really going on you will no longer be interested in this part of the tree the way it is.
If push comes to shove and you do not want to deal with all of these "cute and sexy" solutions you can always chop the tree off at the point where some of the bends start to become obvious. The curves in the upper portion of this tree will never make a decent bonsai. By the time your experience and eye has developed enough to know what's really going on you will no longer be interested in this part of the tree the way it is.
Zac chandanais
Mame
Thanks Vance I may end up chopping it. You're right. It seems like way too much of a headache to keep and it all and still have a decent tree. I appreciate everyone's advice! I'll provide a final decision when I make one lol
Zac chandanais
Mame
Should I keep the second bunch of foliage at the second/right side bend and just bend it upward ?
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
You could but you will likely crack it. If you cut it or chop it (no difference just terminology) dust the cut portion of the severed portion with rooting hormone and see if you can get it to root. They root well and I have rooted them as thick as a good sized pencil.
