Juniper prune back and wire

robin99

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I’m quite new to bonsai and one of the plants I’ve gotten is the classic juniper that everyone goes for. I’ve wired it up and pruned in in the spring time and im using it as a learning tree as I go. Throughout the summer I’ve learned more and I think I have a better idea of the style that would suit it best. I want to get rid of a couple branches that aren’t the biggest but big enough and I was wondering if it safe to do so now or should I wait till late winter before the next push of growth comes.
 

QuantumSparky

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I’m quite new to bonsai and one of the plants I’ve gotten is the classic juniper that everyone goes for. I’ve wired it up and pruned in in the spring time and im using it as a learning tree as I go. Throughout the summer I’ve learned more and I think I have a better idea of the style that would suit it best. I want to get rid of a couple branches that aren’t the biggest but big enough and I was wondering if it safe to do so now or should I wait till late winter before the next push of growth comes.
Do you have a picture of the tree and the branches that you are planning to remove?
 

Forsoothe!

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Some pictures would help us comment. Growing seasons around the world vary widely and it is difficult to get a perspective on what someone says when we don't know where in the world they are. If you go to the upper right hand corner and click on your Icon, you can add your location and people will be able to customize advice for you, and you might connect with another local.




<<<<< It will show here.
 

robin99

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So the first two photos show potential fronts for the tree. Right now I’m trying to just get better at proper technics rather than follow a classic style but i guess the tree is slightly cascade at the moment (the question is do I want the cascade in the back left or right side). The black circle where I want to cut as it’s just too congested in there and I don’t like how too many branches run parallel. By removing the other branch that has the black line two on it I feel I can get a better view of the trunk but also have the weight of the tree slightly shifted towards the cascade and also can help me built a triangle like shape. Feel free to mention loads of towhee stuff you think I’m doing wrong. Like maybe it needs way more cut off. I live in Guelph Ontario in Canada.
 

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Forsoothe!

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It's tough to see in 2D what you see in 3D, but here's an option using everything. We make space. It's the difference between a bush and a tree. But the more you can use and still have plenty of space for the birdies to fly thru, the sooner your beginning can become filled-out and finished. To that end, make the tree take up more space, eg: a wider swath. The left is a nice tall-enough counter-balance to a deep sweep right & down returning to to a lower front sweep. I can't show the clouds as being in flat-ish planes, but all the clouds on the sweeping right branches might be in planes that radiate out from the branches and follow the sweep like an airplane wing stays flat but changes in orientation as it sweeps thru a turn. Does that make sense? It's hard to describe. Eventually the new growth would develop a more rounded crown on the flat sweeps so they (the crowns) would match each other and the crowns of the left side. In plan view the left would be the point of the triangle and the right would be the bottom of the triangle.
j816 3.JPG
j816 2.JPG
 

Shibui

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The problem I see at the moment is there are 2 trees there. One is an upright tree and the other cascading. Both are fighting for visual attention and dominance. Look at lots of (good) cascade bonsai for inspiration. The ones I like have most weight in the cascade section. If there's any upright apex it is usually small so it does not dominate the design.

There's no problem removing that strong vertical branch. I agree with the observation that there are too many parallel and vertical branches there. That one is also nearly as thick as the trunk it grows from. Removing it will lighten that area. Some wiring an rearrangement of some of the others will also help lighten and accentuate the movement of the trunk.
Most beginners have a tendency to retain way too many branches and too much growth. Pruning does not hurt your tree. Pruning is great way to encourage further ramification while limiting spread so try to get used to trimming and removing excess branching.
 

sorce

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Cut it!

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce
 

robin99

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Thank you guys so much for all your helpful ideas. I’m for sure going to try wiring it into a new curved like shape with the branches facing out of the curving circle as I think that could look really good while still preserving the tree a bit. And if that doesn’t work out I’ll try a full cascade tree and cut off the left side. Now with it being mid august here in Ontario would I be okay to do this much cutting? Or should I wait till spring time.
 

robin99

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It's tough to see in 2D what you see in 3D, but here's an option using everything. We make space. It's the difference between a bush and a tree. But the more you can use and still have plenty of space for the birdies to fly thru, the sooner your beginning can become filled-out and finished. To that end, make the tree take up more space, eg: a wider swath. The left is a nice tall-enough counter-balance to a deep sweep right & down returning to to a lower front sweep. I can't show the clouds as being in flat-ish planes, but all the clouds on the sweeping right branches might be in planes that radiate out from the branches and follow the sweep like an airplane wing stays flat but changes in orientation as it sweeps thru a turn. Does that make sense? It's hard to describe. Eventually the new growth would develop a more rounded crown on the flat sweeps so they (the crowns) would match each other and the crowns of the left side. In plan view the left would be the point of the triangle and the right would be the bottom of the triangle.
View attachment 392120
View attachment 392119
I think I understand what you mean by sweeping it around the photos help a lot. Once I sweep it back and have the branches on the outer side of the sweep how can I develop a good pad like should I curve the branches to make the shorter or should I prune them back to prevent them getting leggy? And one thing I was wondering is when will the juvenile needles turn to adult stem like foliage? And lastly can I do this pruning now or should I wait till spring. Thank you so much for to help
 

Forsoothe!

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Wait until the trees have all gone to color in your area when the tree is drier for and ready for winter. Juniper get less damage from the twisting and wiring in the off season. New foliage always points up at the sun, that's why we can wire the pads flat, sideways from the branch and the clouds then grow up from there and we tip prune everything to encourage back-budding. You tip prune all the ends of the stems you flatten that you want to maintain length/shape. Anything that is not long enough is left with the tip un-pruned. Adult foliage comes with time. When the tree has as much foliage as it needs to produce seed and mature it, it will begin to grow only mature foliage. Ignore the way it grows and just keep pinching for shape. Eventually, it will have enough foliage to evolve to mature. The volume of foliage you subtract will also contribute to immature foliage, so over time as you take off less and less, it will be necessary to replace less and less and one day you'll see only mature foliage emerging. Picking tips to maintain finished clouds is the preferred method, but you can also use a scissors to shape it like people shape topiaries. I use a 12" scissors that makes people gasp.
 

robin99

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Wait until the trees have all gone to color in your area when the tree is drier for and ready for winter. Juniper get less damage from the twisting and wiring in the off season. New foliage always points up at the sun, that's why we can wire the pads flat, sideways from the branch and the clouds then grow up from there and we tip prune everything to encourage back-budding. You tip prune all the ends of the stems you flatten that you want to maintain length/shape. Anything that is not long enough is left with the tip un-pruned. Adult foliage comes with time. When the tree has as much foliage as it needs to produce seed and mature it, it will begin to grow only mature foliage. Ignore the way it grows and just keep pinching for shape. Eventually, it will have enough foliage to evolve to mature. The volume of foliage you subtract will also contribute to immature foliage, so over time as you take off less and less, it will be necessary to replace less and less and one day you'll see only mature foliage emerging. Picking tips to maintain finished clouds is the preferred method, but you can also use a scissors to shape it like people shape topiaries. I use a 12" scissors that makes people gasp.
Man you guys are very knowledgeable. That makes a lot of sense about the nature growth. I will wait some time to wire the juniper as it’s not quite fall yet here. As far as cutting off the larger branches to make more room when is the best time to do that. Can I cut the juniper throughout the spring, summer, fall or is there one time of year that I should wait to make large cuts?
 
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