Kaede Bonsai

cquinn

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And although that article doesn't say anything about removing the leader the first year, I'd seriously consider it. Although there were low buds on the trees I had, when the top grew unfettered it only took about one season for them to weaken considerably.

Hi Chris,
I visited Mr. Matsuo in Japan (he from the Bonsai Today / Pine book article who popularized the technique of growing shohin black pines from seeds in colanders in a relatively short amount of time) and have been using his technique for a few years now. Here is a photo of the two of us in Japan - this was in 05 and he was a bit frail at that time.
For black pines you must leave a leader to thicken the trunk. However, you need to reduce it's vigor a bit so that buds stay strong on the bottom. I will post some photo's tonight when I get home of one of my shohin black pines in a colander after 5 years.
john romano[/QUOTE]

Please do. I'll wait in anticipation.
 
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First picture is a black pine from seed from 5 years ago. It is in a double colander at this point. The sacrifice leader is about 4 1/2 ft tall. The trunk is almost 1" wide. The second picture is from another grower in Japan who has perfected this technique to incredible results (taking the mantle form Mr. Matsuo). You can see the sacrifice branches on these 3 yr old pines.
In the shohin study group at BonsaiVault.com, our last meeting was dedicated to this technique. You can read the transcript at the Shohin Study Group forum there. There is a lot to this process that can't be explained in even a few posts but there is a lot in that transcript and there is a lot in the Pine book from Stone Lantern that has the original article about Mr. Matsuo's technique. I can answer any specific questions though as best I can.
john romano
 

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First picture is a black pine from seed from 5 years ago. It is in a double colander at this point. The sacrifice leader is about 4 1/2 ft tall. The trunk is almost 1" wide. The second picture is from another grower in Japan who has perfected this technique to incredible results (taking the mantle form Mr. Matsuo). You can see the sacrifice branches on these 3 yr old pines.
In the shohin study group at BonsaiVault.com, our last meeting was dedicated to this technique. You can read the transcript at the Shohin Study Group forum there. There is a lot to this process that can't be explained in even a few posts but there is a lot in that transcript and there is a lot in the Pine book from Stone Lantern that has the original article about Mr. Matsuo's technique. I can answer any specific questions though as best I can.
john romano

Nice John! Thanks!
 

Si Nguyen

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Matt just emailed me that for anyone who orders from him and mentions that they saw it from me, he would DOUBLE their order! Whew! Go for it guys!

Thanks for the tip Chris! That's a great deal! I am ordering some tridents tomorrow.
Si
 
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John, What fertilizer and application schedule do you use on the collanders?

Frank

Hi Frank,
I use an inorganic soil, 60% sand. The growers in Japan use 100% sand only! They water 3-5 times a day in summer and feed like crazy, mostly organic fertilizer cakes - 10-12 at a time in year 2+. Here in New England, I use a combination: in spring, I use DynaGro 'Grow' fertilizer and then use Mean Green cakes and / or biogold heavily with a bi-weekly liquid application of fish fertilizer and Roots. Works good for me.
john
photo of second year seedling in sand only (Shizuoka, Japan) They are wired late in the first year and allowed to dig in a bit - it makes the trunk swell and thicken. Over time the bite marks go away since they are young and will grow fast. Just don't let it dig too deep.
 

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FrankP999

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Is now a good time to apply the first wiring to pine seedlings? I have some I bought from Matt one year ago. All I have done so far is water and feed.

Thanks

Frank
 
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Frank,
Do your wiring in the late winter in your area.
Good luck,
John
 

Smoke

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Hi Frank,
I use an inorganic soil, 60% sand. The growers in Japan use 100% sand only! They water 3-5 times a day in summer and feed like crazy, mostly organic fertilizer cakes - 10-12 at a time in year 2+. Here in New England, I use a combination: in spring, I use DynaGro 'Grow' fertilizer and then use Mean Green cakes and / or biogold heavily with a bi-weekly liquid application of fish fertilizer and Roots. Works good for me.
john
photo of second year seedling in sand only (Shizuoka, Japan) They are wired late in the first year and allowed to dig in a bit - it makes the trunk swell and thicken. Over time the bite marks go away since they are young and will grow fast. Just don't let it dig too deep.


Thanks John...I have been advocateing sand as a growing medium for years. They grow super fast in sand.

I have three tridents I will share this weekend I have been working on for 6 years. They are getting ready for pots now.

Happy Turkey Day, Al
 

bretts

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I became intrested in sand as a medium about 6 months ago.
When I say sand I would refer to any medium that does not break down redily and is about the 1mm size.

They are wired late in the first year and allowed to dig in a bit - it makes the trunk swell and thicken. Over time the bite marks go away since they are young and will grow fast. Just don't let it dig too deep.

Try leaving the wire on indefinatly.

Look out for the new series WOB No#5 on this site to see what I mean.
Should be out any day now. Well thats what Lindsay has been saying for a couple of weeks but hey should be soon:D
http://www.bonsaifarm.tv/
I have seen the untranslated edition so I am still looking forward to what they actually say in No#5as well but I have seen the results :rolleyes:
 
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