If you plug the holes from the inside, you can dunk the pot and the pressure created inside the pot will stop the glaze covering the inside...most of the time!Question for the bonsai potters in the audience:
How do you achieve glazing on the outside of the pot whilst leaving the inside unglazed?
-For my first glazing experience, I dunked my entire pots in glaze and then it was taking forever to remove the glaze from inside the pot with a sponge...maybe it's easier to just paint on the glaze on the outside with a brush??
Yes this would work. It would take a minute or two to paint on the wax, then you need to let it solidify for a few minutes. Probably still faster than my original method. And you could easily line up 5 pots: wax, wax, wax, wax, wax and by the end the first one is probably ready to glaze.Wax resist?
* I'm not a potter, I just play one on TV.
Fire away. Wax will do it's job and disappear.do you then just fire it and the wax melts away? Or do you have to remove the wax before you fire it?
You want to make the holes when the clay is leather hard. At the stage the hole will maintain its shape.Yeah, I got a similar tip from the class instructor this week...it helps if the clay is allowed to dry for a few hours first, then make the holes. This week I let the slab dry for ~2 hours on a concrete board (helps suck the moisture out of the clay) before making the holes with those hole-punching tools. We shall see how that large rectangle does!
I've had a few successful bisque firings with some of the early smaller pieces (no major cracks). I'll grab some pictures next week as I'm glazing them hopefully.
Use a fan brush and touch up with a damp rag or sponge.Question for the bonsai potters in the audience:
How do you achieve glazing on the outside of the pot whilst leaving the inside unglazed?
-For my first glazing experience, I dunked my entire pots in glaze and then it was taking forever to remove the glaze from inside the pot with a sponge...maybe it's easier to just paint on the glaze on the outside with a brush??
Be attentive using the wax. If you drop a drop on the pot....no glaze on the spot or if you get wax on your fingers you'll have finger marks all over the pot where the glaze won't adhere. You'll have to re-bisque the pot to get it off. You can also use a pencil to mark the line to where you want to stop when using a brush.Yes this would work. It would take a minute or two to paint on the wax, then you need to let it solidify for a few minutes. Probably still faster than my original method. And you could easily line up 5 pots: wax, wax, wax, wax, wax and by the end the first one is probably ready to glaze.
The wax burns off in the kiln, same as using liquid latex.do you then just fire it and the wax melts away? Or do you have to remove the wax before you fire it?
Did you sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night?Wax resist?
* I'm not a potter, I just play one on TV.
It was just drying at ambient air overnight (but it is about 30% humidity, so maybe that dried it quite rapidly.How quick did you dry it? I give my pots a couple of weeks, only up to about 8in in size.
Try putting a plastic bag over it for a few days before leaving it to dry in the open air. This has helped me a lot.It was just drying at ambient air overnight (but it is about 30% humidity, so maybe that dried it quite rapidly.