Keep it or Cut it?

ConorDash

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Repotted today. The nebari is starting to spread out nicely. One day I’ll be able to expose a pretty wide base.
View attachment 359543View attachment 359544View attachment 359545View attachment 359546View attachment 359547
Any particular reason you left the roots quite long?
Obviously nice and fibrous, not long and thick, but seems like you could have shortened radially by a few inches, to give it more root to produce more in the pot?

Awesome base and nebari, really lovely. Ill create that one day...
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Any particular reason you left the roots quite long?
Obviously nice and fibrous, not long and thick, but seems like you could have shortened radially by a few inches, to give it more root to produce more in the pot?

Awesome base and nebari, really lovely. Ill create that one day...
To what advantage? I have some specific reasons for the way I did it, but am curious about the question.
 

ConorDash

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To what advantage? I have some specific reasons for the way I did it, but am curious about the question.
Ah, everyone loves a good question as an answer to a question :), holding the info hostage till your demands are met!

For further ramification of roots. More ramification, more growth, wider base.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Any particular reason you left the roots quite long?
Obviously nice and fibrous, not long and thick, but seems like you could have shortened radially by a few inches, to give it more root to produce more in the pot?
1. In 2014, I took this tree to a Kathy Shaner workshop, and we repotted it, aggressively reducing the roots. The result was this:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2014/04/05/its-always-the-little-things/. It taught me how far I can safely push this tree.

2. The tree is repotted annually (except 2020), so I have a reasonable expectation of what kind of root growth to expect in a year. The tree has plenty of room to grow.

3. Since I skipped last year, and the top struggled (for this reason, or from wiring every branch that winter), I wanted the roots to have access to as much soil moisture as possible to keep it strong. If you leave 2” of space between the edge of the roots and the pot wall, the roots cannot access the water in that area of soil, and you’re stuck babysitting it for a few weeks while the roots grow. But with akadama soil, roots have plenty of space to expand, even if they start almost to the edge of the pot.

4. Regardless of what is visible, I still removed easily over 50% of the roots; especially anything not in that shallow plane. A few of the roots close to the nebari need to thicken to expand the nebari, like you mentioned. Leaving those roots a bit longer will allow them to continue thickening (think sacrifice branch). They can be cut short later, and still continue to ramify. More photos of the repot are here:

5. Finally, aggressive root pruning can lead to coarse growth, below and above the soil level. At this stage, it doesn’t need coarse growth, it needs even and balanced growth throughout.
 

parhamr

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1. In 2014, I took this tree to a Kathy Shaner workshop, and we repotted it, aggressively reducing the roots. The result was this:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2014/04/05/its-always-the-little-things/. It taught me how far I can safely push this tree.

2. The tree is repotted annually (except 2020), so I have a reasonable expectation of what kind of root growth to expect in a year. The tree has plenty of room to grow.

3. Since I skipped last year, and the top struggled (for this reason, or from wiring every branch that winter), I wanted the roots to have access to as much soil moisture as possible to keep it strong. If you leave 2” of space between the edge of the roots and the pot wall, the roots cannot access the water in that area of soil, and you’re stuck babysitting it for a few weeks while the roots grow. But with akadama soil, roots have plenty of space to expand, even if they start almost to the edge of the pot.

4. Regardless of what is visible, I still removed easily over 50% of the roots; especially anything not in that shallow plane. A few of the roots close to the nebari need to thicken to expand the nebari, like you mentioned. Leaving those roots a bit longer will allow them to continue thickening (think sacrifice branch). They can be cut short later, and still continue to ramify. More photos of the repot are here:

5. Finally, aggressive root pruning can lead to coarse growth, below and above the soil level. At this stage, it doesn’t need coarse growth, it needs even and balanced growth throughout.
Good explanation! Thanks for taking the time to write it up.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Repotted today. Cut it loose:
E7FF2448-3CBA-4AB1-B67E-75F698060ECB.jpeg D914B408-47B1-46DB-8C88-E9B227328EC1.jpeg

Considering using the cream Suishoen this year, it’s the same size as the Yamaaki:
60429217-E3A3-4645-BF46-6270088D287C.jpeg

Remove all the crossing roots running along the bottom:
0EB4A10C-4B7C-4901-8DF5-A3030914F3F8.jpeg 2AD9B054-9F78-4ED5-AE96-D5E70843EA45.jpeg

Comb out and clean up the fine roots, keep everything radiating outward from the trunk.
7ADC5ECD-39DB-4CFD-9BCD-44D6594B9449.jpeg 387CA498-C735-4994-9895-5A070C160D54.jpeg

Soil worked in, watered, and top-dressed with sphagnum moss:
3DE45176-5DB4-4B0D-AFA5-05ECA9422868.jpeg
 
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