Kelp/other bio stimulants

cmeg1

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Ok,I cannot deny that many things influence tree health and vigor like PH,nutrient strength and the like.
But,I just want to report results from using Kelp Extract/Fulvic Acid for drenches and weekly foliar spray.

It is known kelp supresses top leader growth and promotes lateral branching instead.
When you mix it with Fulvic Acid(a low molecular weight humic substance) it is transported very efficiently directly into plant ions and works it’s magic.
I read this only takes a few hours! BAM!!
Any way I apply Kelp/Fulvic weekly as foliar because anymore and you risk burning leaves as cytokinesis(cell division essentialy) creates heat.
Even every 2-3 weeks is sufficient I have been instructed to create lateral branching.
I am getting seedling air-layers like the one below at only 6 inches tall and branches big time.
3” branches are loaded with backbud.......which does not always happen in subpar conditions.
I may add that these are grown as motherplants with minimal nitrogen under blue enhanced grow lights( which also supress leader growth) and CO2 enrichment ,but Kelp and Fulvic Acid are a very big contributing factor.

All done in 6 weeks from seed!
CC423EAB-F166-4D0E-AA91-1D2813AEB330.jpegC28C20CD-90A8-45A1-83DE-3BA0B79088E7.jpeg46A5C01E-26CD-4DBA-A731-95494F8DC587.jpeg1DFF9277-DBC7-465C-AF79-AE89F8CC5058.jpeg
 
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cmeg1

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The products

strongly advised to add Yucca Powder too.A natural wetting agent for foliar....not to mention yucca is a mild natural fungicide!

Ph your foliar sprays and nurients!!


3F5002CA-15EE-4D8F-BD5D-AC35C518BEAE.jpeg
 
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Wires_Guy_wires

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Any way I apply Kelp/Fulvic weekly as foliar because anymore and you risk burning leaves as cytokinesis(cell division essentialy) creates heat.
Creative reasoning, but the burning of leaves is usually due to salt stress and osmotic issues. If heat produced by cell division was a factor, we would not get apical growth in summer; it would kill the apical meristem because that's where division takes place. In most leaves, there is little cell division, most leaves 'grow' due to expansion, thanks to turgor pressure. Screw up the turgor pressure with osmotic differences (salt stress) and voila, the foliage will burn (lose so much water that the cells shrivel).
In most cases even, plant growth is net temperature negative, since growth requires respiration and respiration causes the evaporation of water, which cools down the tissue.
 

cmeg1

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Creative reasoning, but the burning of leaves is usually due to salt stress and osmotic issues. If heat produced by cell division was a factor, we would not get apical growth in summer; it would kill the apical meristem because that's where division takes place. In most leaves, there is little cell division, most leaves 'grow' due to expansion, thanks to turgor pressure. Screw up the turgor pressure with osmotic differences (salt stress) and voila, the foliage will burn (lose so much water that the cells shrivel).
In most cases even, plant growth is net temperature negative, since growth requires respiration and respiration causes the evaporation of water, which cools down the tissue.
Thanks! For the insight and clarification.
Sometimes in recollection of what I was taught I re-word things without realizing.

I think I was just enthused that my young plants could potentially catch ON FIRE..............from all the GOOD chemical reactions taking place😂
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Thanks! For the insight and clarification.
Sometimes in recollection of what I was taught I re-word things without realizing.

I think I was just enthused that my young plants could potentially catch ON FIRE..............from all the GOOD chemical reactions taking place😂
Well, I have to give you credits for remembering something about heat and cell division. I mean, yeasts, fungi, bacteria, archea and mammalian cells all do it too! I've worked with cell cultures that required a cooling installation because they produced so much heat that they would kill themselves if they weren't cooled. Compost heaps and hay stacks can "spontaneously" catch fire due to the organisms living in them. Seriously, I've had slight skin burns after sticking my hand in a very active compost heap.
In live plants however, the temperature generated by metabolization and growing is so limited, that it's hardly having an effect. But how cool would it be if..

Back to the topic on hand, I use fulvic and humic acids, but I haven't seen any more positive effects compared to good all-round nutrients. I just like the idea of it. I do have a raised eyebrow about the 'organicness' of the stuff, since it's basically super-duper processed compost extract.
 

cmeg1

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Well, I have to give you credits for remembering something about heat and cell division. I mean, yeasts, fungi, bacteria, archea and mammalian cells all do it too! I've worked with cell cultures that required a cooling installation because they produced so much heat that they would kill themselves if they weren't cooled. Compost heaps and hay stacks can "spontaneously" catch fire due to the organisms living in them. Seriously, I've had slight skin burns after sticking my hand in a very active compost heap.
In live plants however, the temperature generated by metabolization and growing is so limited, that it's hardly having an effect. But how cool would it be if..

Back to the topic on hand, I use fulvic and humic acids, but I haven't seen any more positive effects compared to good all-round nutrients. I just like the idea of it. I do have a raised eyebrow about the 'organicness' of the stuff, since it's basically super-duper processed compost extract.
Thanks!
I’ve just taken the course a few months ago and this is first results from what I have learned.
Went whole nine yards with co2 ,temp,humidity,nutes,suppliments.
I am digging it.
Here is picture of a tree leaf in the grow room.....definately looks to be photosythesis.
I must add that CO2 will definately boost reactions in the leaf if you have everything else dialed in.....I’m learning though 🙃
Also the course.

B21E67E9-B5C2-4441-BE9A-5356C38DF6C4.jpegDCF3978F-2C91-4784-B678-89B5F823F5F9.jpeg
 

Anthony

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Cmeg,

our simple soil mix, grows plamts well and thus far no need for
pesticides or other cides.

We rely on slow, constant, even growth.

Humic acid, is only supposed to exist in the lab. Some sort of
chemcal reaction.

Every rainy season, the sea down here dumps tons of seaweed,
and top hollow coral stones, good for growing pots, for
seagrapes.
Good Day
Anthony

* Go for the super bonsai !!!!!!!!!
 

cmeg1

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Cmeg,

our simple soil mix, grows plamts well and thus far no need for
pesticides or other cides.

We rely on slow, constant, even growth.

Humic acid, is only supposed to exist in the lab. Some sort of
chemcal reaction.

Every rainy season, the sea down here dumps tons of seaweed,
and top hollow coral stones, good for growing pots, for
seagrapes.
Good Day
Anthony

* Go for the super bonsai !!!!!!!!!
Thanks,Anthony.
I am seeing results for myself that heavy nitrogen is not always best remedy.
The course I bought is actually what the Dutch have learned 20 years ago when pesticides and fungicides were banned there!
This is interesting science to me.They instead make plants super Brix(sugar in sap). When a plant reaches a certain level of Brix,sucking insects don’t even recognize it as food....... so I have learned anyway.
I have not even added base grow formula for much of the process.....just suppliments,cal-mag and the like.Small amounts of nitrogen mainly from cal-mag.
 
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Anthony

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What was done here,

[1 ] Compost - micronutrients and microbes

[2] lawn fertiliser at 1/3 strength - 9 N .........

No extra P and now going to 6 N - 1/ 6 strength.
Many trees are over 30 years old. So even, slower growth.
BUT have to test for stronger Tropical sunlight.

Essentially duplication of fermented oil seed at 6 to 8 N.............

All speed growth done in the grouind growing big trunk stage.
Slowing for large plastic bonsai pot ramification.
Good Day
Anthony
 

cmeg1

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Looks good @Anthony

I learned the hard way about rainwater and mineral /non organic fertilizers in volcanic stones(perlite)at my new home.
I was pouring on tons of dyna gro in pure rain water and ph plumeted and the plants stalled and nearly died.
Growing in straight volcanic stones ,ph is much more important than organic soil based media.
Soil types actually buffer ph....I believe.
 

Anthony

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Cmeg,

when growing in purely inorganic soil mixes, it is probably easier
to use fermented oil seed meal.[ 6N.......]

The seed meal composts and some of the compost will work it's way
down to the root zone.
Feeding in 1N 1P 1K plus micronutrients.
Texas Edu, says compost is good for 4 years.

So you have first, say 6N 2P 2K and the 1N etc from the compost.

The trick is to get the tree - lush.

We use the sculpture technique of - take away.
BUT have a design drawn to guide the shaping.

Every new tree type is first sent to the lush state.

You might be overdoing the Health stage,

Most folk fail on the Design stage.
Won't study any Art.
Good Day
Anthony

* I have no idea what happens when you teabag the oil seed meal.
Seems to be another attempt to pretty, pretty the Bonsai.
As you get no compost, just fertiliser.
Might be another attempt to slow both growth and eventual loss of design.

Or a rote training technique to mimic mountain found trees.

Maybe dead roots and dead insects / poop / atmospheric dirt
will satisfy the microbes ??????
 
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cmeg1

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Kelp/Fulvic Acid results on the Pines.

I believe the foliar and drenches are having effect on the seedling cuttings too.
Some of these have 8 or 9 branches just at the base! So they seem to have suppressed top growth and are pushing lateral growth instead.Seems to almost be dominating on some of them.
I am just going with this optimistically and hope they will at least be put to use to make clumps or multi trunks or something.
 

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Wilson

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Kelp/Fulvic Acid results on the Pines.

I believe the foliar and drenches are having effect on the seedling cuttings too.
Some of these have 8 or 9 branches just at the base! So they seem to have suppressed top growth and are pushing lateral growth instead.Seems to almost be dominating on some of them.
I am just going with this optimistically and hope they will at least be put to use to make clumps or multi trunks or something.

These look like awesome little starters!
 

cmeg1

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These look like awesome little starters!
Thanks!
They are definately fun. I have around 380 or so been rooting a month.I just left them alone except water once a week.they are all anchored to soil,so see what kind of roots tommorrow and start potting.
2406EA62-75D6-4AE5-A1A7-5D1EB6F377D2.jpeg
 

GGB

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@cmeg1 I don't know if you're a people person but I'd love to swing by sometime and see this grow opertation you have going. Afraid the DEA is going to raid you before these seedlings really take shape haha. Would be interested in purchasing young stock too if that's something you'd be into. Message me on here sometime if you're interested
 

cmeg1

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@cmeg1 I don't know if you're a people person but I'd love to swing by sometime and see this grow opertation you have going. Afraid the DEA is going to raid you before these seedlings really take shape haha. Would be interested in purchasing young stock too if that's something you'd be into. Message me on here sometime if you're interested
Yeah you’re welcome I’m only going to have Pines this year the seedling Cuttings .....the deciduous am working on and see what air layers well for good results and is properly sellable and easy to make and easy to ship. I’m experimenting with different deciduous for a bit,but the Pines I hope to have many many for sale in the spring I could ship legal or you can stop by to save shipping!
Thanks man.
Could visit anytime.....I only got about 40 pines now ,almost 400 cuttings I’m gonna start potting tomorrow.
In about a month and a half they really start greening up and I’ll have a lot going on closer we get to spring.
Whenever is cool though.Nothing for sale for a few months though.
Curtis
CM BONSAI
 

GGB

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right on, I'll hit you up in March. I'm usually going out of my mind at that point of the winter
 
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