Kelp/other bio stimulants

cmeg1

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beware!

if anyone considering a sealed hydro room indoors ....get a grow tent to keep the 90 degree heat off outdoor facing walls....all kinds of condensation.
Have to remove sheet rock,insulation and the R 40? Stuff.
Everything going into an 8x4 tent and be able to vent the room. Should be good to go.
Unless I have a leak,but I suspect hydro grow condensation and thin mobile home walls.
 

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Tieball

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Different Grow formula.

I already use so many of these salts and powders from NPK ferts that I decided to give their ALL- IN -ONE GROW a try.I only add a few extra things like their Amino ,Microbes,Enzymes and extra of their Calmag.As per their grow schedule.Their schedule is interesting as it advizes to start with fertilizer once or twice a week and water in between or if needed ...feed -water -feed or feed -water -water- feed.
I actually like this plan,so I can sleep in a little later every day.Also consideralbly more affordable than Botanicare and has all the bio-stimulants already added that I get(and learned) from Harley Smith and NPK Industries anyway....we’ll see how it goes!

Interested to know more. Do you ever test....side by side....same tree material, same age, same conditions, same watering, same pruning, same light exposure....same everything but only one has all the specialized additives? One tree has additives to completely inorganic substrate....the other tree has natural organic decomposing components included as the mix....nature’s forest blend.

I'm just curious of actual results. I try to understand more. Company marketing comparisons are always going to favor their product ....and often include the comment “actual results may vary”....like they wrote that line just for me.
 

0soyoung

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Interested to know more. Do you ever test....side by side....same tree material, same age, same conditions, same watering, same pruning, same light exposure....same everything but only one has all the specialized additives? One tree has additives to completely inorganic substrate....the other tree has natural organic decomposing components included as the mix....nature’s forest blend.

I'm just curious of actual results. I try to understand more. Company marketing comparisons are always going to favor their product ....and often include the comment “actual results may vary”....like they wrote that line just for me.
I like this thinking, but one ought to have more than one tree with each treatment. If you can tell one tree from the next, they differ in some way. That way may effect the response to the treatment(s). 🤔
 

cmeg1

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Interested to know more. Do you ever test....side by side....same tree material, same age, same conditions, same watering, same pruning, same light exposure....same everything but only one has all the specialized additives? One tree has additives to completely inorganic substrate....the other tree has natural organic decomposing components included as the mix....nature’s forest blend.

I'm just curious of actual results. I try to understand more. Company marketing comparisons are always going to favor their product ....and often include the comment “actual results may vary”....like they wrote that line just for me.
Seems interesting experiment...I’m probably too lazy.Personally I believe the advantage of organics is usually a slower release,so plants are stronger from slower growth and increased energy from photosythesis.Instead of wasting energy to assimilate nitrogen(which is completely luxery element for most trees and plants any way).
My class taught me that if using organics you definately need to add microbes and fungi to make primarily the phospherous more available.
If using mineral/soluble phospherous the roots will reject the fungi as defence from a pathogen?
Microbes are good in either situation.Some are actually nitrogen fixing from the air.
I believe in low NPK until you may see a sign of deficiency and then just spoon feed to correct the deficiency, then increase the npk or nutrient afterwards ,so plants photosynthesize more instead. Lower NPK and higher bio-stimulants....AT LEAST IN THE BEGINNING ANYWAY........high fertilizer and EC in fruiting and flowering will help increase oils and brix before harvest of veggies or whatever you are growing.
I learned this from the class I took and am still working to perfect it.........low npk/high bio-stimulants/more photosynthesis/higher brix!
 

BuckeyeOne

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I have not even added base grow formula for much of the process
@cmeg1 You have made multiple references to "base grow formula" on multiple occasions. Just trying to understand.

Is this a supplemental nutrient that you add to your seeding soil that you find no need for?
 

cmeg1

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@cmeg1 You have made multiple references to "base grow formula" on multiple occasions. Just trying to understand.

Is this a supplemental nutrient that you add to your seeding soil that you find no need for?
Before all organic bio stimulants are added you want a complete base grow nutrient like a 2-2-2 or 7-6-5 or whatever with all the micro nutrients.EC that to whatever strength then add the bio stimulants.Organic bio stimulants do not add to electrical conductivity(EC) of nutrient in most cases.
So you need a balanced base grow with the npk and micronutrients plants need in varying strengths depending on which stage of growth plant is in.

I now add a base grow to all starter nutrients.
 

BuckeyeOne

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Ahh! Now I understand!

Now, is it advantageous to add this "base grow formula'" to the seeding soil mix? I'm thinking that there is no real need, as the seedlings will spout in a number of days, only to be made into cuttings. (I'm referring to the pines and others that will be cut.)

I can see that the other cultivars that will remain in the seeding soil mix longer would benefit.
 

cmeg1

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Ahh! Now I understand!

Now, is it advantageous to add this "base grow formula'" to the seeding soil mix? I'm thinking that there is no real need, as the seedlings will spout in a number of days, only to be made into cuttings. (I'm referring to the pines and others that will be cut.)

I can see that the other cultivars that will remain in the seeding soil mix longer would benefit.
Im a liquid fertilizer person....seedling get really low strength .3-.5,but need nutrients rather quickly....definately use something for seedlings...will get deficiancies quickly,but at the same time the biggest mistake beginners make is overfertilizing...good luck man its fun
 

BuckeyeOne

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My go to for my potted plants has been MG in very high dosages. Walter Pall style. 4-5 times recommended strength. A few others here are of the same mind with great results.

I'm starting to transtition to a blend of organic/non-organic supplements. Still trying to find the right balance.
 

sierrajuniper

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[/QUOTE]
Oh I see! With the karma it is definately used as drench every watering.As foliar you should watch it,no more than once a week seaweed is powerful stuff on leaves and will burn if more than once a week.
I use pump sprayer also for foliar Spray and drenching also in my grow.

The karma and fulvic call for a much higher strength for foliar as stated on the bottle....nearly triple the drench strength.
I also am experimenting with powders for fulvic and kelp .
.

Hi Cmeg1,
Excellent info about fulvic acid and kelp. I have a few junipers and blackpines but they not growing well. Are you still using Fulvex and Karma for root drench?
What is the rate per gallon of water for root drench and how often? I like the idea of foliar feed once a week. Oh, what's the rate for foliar feed?
Thanks Cmeg1
 

cmeg1

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Hi Cmeg1,
Excellent info about fulvic acid and kelp. I have a few junipers and blackpines but they not growing well. Are you still using Fulvex and Karma for root drench?
What is the rate per gallon of water for root drench and how often? I like the idea of foliar feed once a week. Oh, what's the rate for foliar feed?
Thanks Cmeg1
[/QUOTE]
I have recently switched to powders in a 5:2 ratio of Fulvic/kelp.The powders have no added npk or anything to hinder rooting of cuttings and also the 5:2 ratio was researched by Virginia Tech for 10 years and is 50% better than either product on its own and makes plant really healthy and protected by stimulating adp? Or some type of plant protection agent.
But at any rate the fulvex and Karma worked great.
Just follow directions with karma and fulvex...every watering they advise.Definately do not foliar feed more than once a week...foliage will burn from kelp.
never know I may switch back.Botanicare is consideralbly more expensive than powders.
foliar ph is 6.2-7.0 as explained on bottle of karma.The bottle of karma and fulvex list rates for foliar and drench on bottles...foliar is quite strong....I would go with the botanicare as it is loaded with goodies...be prepared to ph nutrient but get a meter and they work great in cloudy nutrient solution.


here is what I use now.
 

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sierrajuniper

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Do you add yucca to fulvex/karma for root drench? Thanks
 

cmeg1

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Do you add yucca to fulvex/karma for root drench? Thanks
Yes I add yucca all the time to all nutrient.It is a mild natural fungicide and also a wetting agent to disperse water better through soil.Also keep organics and minerals in suspension and not locking out.
A must for foliar too as a surfectant to spread water over leaves and not bead up too much.
 

cmeg1

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Funny Comparison time w/out Harley Smith w/ Harley Smith Grower Course.

This is very humorous to me:oops:
Seedling indoor JBP at 4 months old before I took the Hydro course ‘2018’.........

B30D971F-21C9-4368-8BED-B01F82ED9484.jpeg




Now this year with the Harley Smith Grower Course.....A 5 month old JBP seedling.
WOOOOOOOW......Freakin’ for real?

F66AEEBA-6085-4CCB-BFFA-469A0FA0C9AF.jpeg
 

Bezalel Nebari

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Funny Comparison time w/out Harley Smith w/ Harley Smith Grower Course.

This is very humorous to me:oops:
Seedling indoor JBP at 4 months old before I took the Hydro course ‘2018’.........

View attachment 284833




Now this year with the Harley Smith Grower Course.....A 5 month old JBP seedling.
WOOOOOOOW......Freakin’ for real?

View attachment 284838
I think this thread is amazing. Thanks for sharing all of this. I'm curious about which course in particular you took. I clicked the link, but saw several courses. Also, would you mind listing some of the topics you learned about that helped you get such a drastic improvement in your results?
 

cmeg1

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I think this thread is amazing. Thanks for sharing all of this. I'm curious about which course in particular you took. I clicked the link, but saw several courses. Also, would you mind listing some of the topics you learned about that helped you get such a drastic improvement in your results?
Thanks...I took the entire grow course bundle for $250. I looked online and found a $50 discount code also.
the most notable single courses in the package are both the Seedlings and cuttings,Motherplants,intro to hydro,nutrient management,bio stimulants.
also the co2 and environment course also....essentially it is all good,the whole bundle presents a savings.....just get the whole bundle is my advice.
very entertaining and quality video that can be screen recorded from your phone eventually to always have....Totally different from his YouTube videos.......I enjoyed every minute of it.......And Dutch Hydroponics has it going on!
cannot deny the natural remedies for pesticides and fungicides either....there will be a day this is needed.
 

Bezalel Nebari

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Thanks...I took the entire grow course bundle for $250. I looked online and found a $50 discount code also.
the most notable single courses in the package are both the Seedlings and cuttings,Motherplants,intro to hydro,nutrient management,bio stimulants.
also the co2 and environment course also....essentially it is all good,the whole bundle presents a savings.....just get the whole bundle is my advice.
very entertaining and quality video that can be screen recorded from your phone eventually to always have....Totally different from his YouTube videos.......I enjoyed every minute of it.......And Dutch Hydroponics has it going on!
cannot deny the natural remedies for pesticides and fungicides either....there will be a day this is needed.
Word..thanks a lot. I'll save up a little extra cash and take that course. I also wanted to ask you about your air-layering technique. In post #22, you showed the progress of a zelkova air layer. How did you set it up to be able to peek at the roots so frequently?
 

cmeg1

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Word..thanks a lot. I'll save up a little extra cash and take that course. I also wanted to ask you about your air-layering technique. In post #22, you showed the progress of a zelkova air layer. How did you set it up to be able to peek at the roots so frequently?
Cool.These Zelkova were all grown in a 10x20 tray...about 22 seedlings...though it is better to perhaps spread them out a bit...maybe 10 per flat,so all the leaves can photosynthesis.Then I just used paper towel roll cardboard and cut to about 1.5” long and open it up to fir around the seedlings... did a couple a day and they root in about 10 days...but better to leave almost two weeks for large root systems...once rooting is begin can feed stimulants and whatever while still attached....roots get very vigorous that way.do a 50/50 grade 2 perlit and shredded orchid spahgnum. So they do not dry.
 

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cmeg1

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nice little Zelkova

pruned,defoliate ,Re-Wire.I totally dig some of these......this one has 1/4-1/2” internodes!
Give them a little time...........It’s good to get everything right with these nutritionally......or they may not do as they are supposed to🧐

ONLY 4.5 months........grown from seed ,air-layered and all............yaaaaaaay!
 

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