Kintsugi: UPS Smashed My Brand New Pot

Gabler

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I recently ordered a few bonsai pots on clearance. They're pots with minor imperfections that sell for a third of the regular price, but I like them for their wabi sabi affect, so it's a win/win for me as a buyer. Unfortunately, UPS smashed one of the pots in spite of its excessive packaging. Fortunately, I now have an excuse to learn kintsugi. After reading a lot about it on this forum and elsewhere, I'm feeling confident enough to try it out on some old dinner plates for practice and then move on to the pot when I get the technique down. I figured it would be fun to document it here and seek feedback and suggestions based on by practice results. I'll be updating this thread as I get around to working on it.


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Rivian

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That is not excessive packaging, it should have been bubblewrapped all around and put in a larger package. Unless they impaled the thing that should have prevented it breaking. But you have a good attitude, making the most of it. Still want to encourage you to either buy elsewhere or ask for better packaging next time
 

Wulfskaar

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That is not excessive packaging, it should have been bubblewrapped all around and put in a larger package. Unless they impaled the thing that should have prevented it breaking. But you have a good attitude, making the most of it. Still want to encourage you to either buy elsewhere or ask for better packaging next time
Yeah, that's the fault of whoever packaged and shipped it. They should send you a new one.
 

Gabler

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That is not excessive packaging, it should have been bubblewrapped all around and put in a larger package. Unless they impaled the thing that should have prevented it breaking. But you have a good attitude, making the most of it. Still want to encourage you to either buy elsewhere or ask for better packaging next time

It was in a bigger package surrounded by foam peanuts.
 

RJG2

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That's funny, I was just reading @ABCarve 's thread/tutorial.

 

Flowerhouse

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stuff rolling around the outside of packaging.
While you don't have control over the catastrophes a package might encounter once it enters the shipping stream, you are very careful about isolating and immobilizing items within the package. That is much appreciated, Sir.
 

Ollie

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My method, copied and pasted from elsewhere - it's basic and easy after a bit of practice, but I'm happy with the results so far:

Personally didn't find any videos particularly helpful when learning, I mostly learnt from trial and error - so practice on some other ceramics before you do any valuable pots! I use araldite epoxy (takes a while to set so you have plenty of time to apply) mixed with gold mica powder. Lightly sand the broken edges. Wait for the epoxy to get taccy (with araldite, 30 mins, with normal epoxy, immediately) before applying. I prefer a VERY thin sliver of gold compared to the big bulges most other newbs do (personal taste), so spread a thin layer on each broken edge with a glue spreader, then gently press together so a thin line pushes out the gap. Remember you're filling a void so any excess will bulge out. Only stick two pieces at a time (with the long-acting stuff) and keep them in place with some rocks/pots - this is much easier if you let the epoxy get taccy before applying. Hope this helps!!

Here's a couple of my attempts, by no means professional but I enjoy them!
 

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Gabler

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I tested out a few epoxies on some old stoneware dinner plates this afternoon. I’ll have more to report when they fully cure.
 

Sekibonsai

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I think people missed the part where this is not a great quality pot... a kintsugi thread literally just rose as a new post status... It recommends patent gold rather than
powder. and a 2 part epoxy- do you have JB Weld?
 

Potawatomi13

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Two things learned disuading from using this way are the"cement"used has same allergic reaction as poison Oak, poison Ivy and as organic substance it will dissolve/lose cement properties unlike non organic cement in contact with H20, weather cycles.
 

ConorDash

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I've heard of this before, didn't know it was possible for mere mortals. I think I will try some time this winter. I broke this pot when repotting, and its quite a unique one, I was ... unhappy.

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White residue is super glue..... I refused to not use the pot, the tree is perfect for it.
 

RJG2

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Get one from @sorce. It's an interesting mix of corndog, eggroll and beer boxes but they always arrive in perfect condition! 😁
Not always...

Turns out you can't keep stuff rolling around the outside of packaging. 😰🤫

Sorce

Carol, it's funny you posted that on the day I got my Sorce package. The bonus was broken, but everything I actually bought was good!

But that's why I was here and in ABCarve's thread, I think I'll try his patent gold leaf method.

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Gabler

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I think people missed the part where this is not a great quality pot... a kintsugi thread literally just rose as a new post status... It recommends patent gold rather than
powder. and a 2 part epoxy- do you have JB Weld?
Yes. I tested other epoxies on some old dishes, and the JB Weld proved superior to the other epoxies. I forgot to snap pictures, but I’ll definitely carefully document the real pot.
 

Gabler

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I also plan to use a high quality gold lettering enamel rather than real gold powder or gold leaf. I think the results will be superior, and with less effort. When I get to testing it, I’ll upload some pics.
 

Gabler

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My method, copied and pasted from elsewhere - it's basic and easy after a bit of practice, but I'm happy with the results so far:

Personally didn't find any videos particularly helpful when learning, I mostly learnt from trial and error - so practice on some other ceramics before you do any valuable pots! I use araldite epoxy (takes a while to set so you have plenty of time to apply) mixed with gold mica powder. Lightly sand the broken edges. Wait for the epoxy to get taccy (with araldite, 30 mins, with normal epoxy, immediately) before applying. I prefer a VERY thin sliver of gold compared to the big bulges most other newbs do (personal taste), so spread a thin layer on each broken edge with a glue spreader, then gently press together so a thin line pushes out the gap. Remember you're filling a void so any excess will bulge out. Only stick two pieces at a time (with the long-acting stuff) and keep them in place with some rocks/pots - this is much easier if you let the epoxy get taccy before applying. Hope this helps!!

Here's a couple of my attempts, by no means professional but I enjoy them!
I’m doing something similar, but applying high-grade gold-colored metallic paint with a tiny brush for painting miniatures.
 

Gabler

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Okay. I finally have some experimental results to report. For your enjoyment, here's my very first practice run. I was just getting a feel for how the materials behaved. Needless to say, it's an utter mess.

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Gabler

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Regular five minute epoxy won't cut it. J-B Weld works, as does the "quick" formula. PC-7 is the best stuff I've found to work with, and it's relatively non-toxic. I've used it in fish tanks for years. For filling gaps where pieces are missing, I prefer the Do It Best store-brand epoxy putty. The J-B Weld putty sticks to my hands too much and won't stick to the ceramics well enough.

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