Kiwi’s Chinese Elm Broom

Jakes

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Hi Guys, I am new to this forum. I found this thread through a Google search... So glad I did, because I did not take into consideration that the multi branches on my elm(nursery stock which I chopped the trunk) was going to buldge in the future, and it makes perfect sense to use this method to avoid that.
I had the exact same challenge on what to do with my elm tree as per start of this tread.
So I went ahead and followed the same teqnique on my elm.
I did not have a clamp on hand so I made a plan.
Let me know if I missed anything and if this will suffice for the sub branches to swell to the inside... Until they are strong enough to be wired next season?

My next worry is, due to the clamp being lifted slightly to ensure the girth of the branches swell to the inside, how do I wire it next season with the "clamp" in the way to get the angle right for the sub branches coming out from the trunk?

Another worry for me is rot inside the clamp/hole in the trunk with standing water?

Here's some pictures.

Also, do you have an update on yours for us @KiwiPlantGuy ?
 

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Jakes

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I am aware of the ugly roots issues and the fact that the original soil in the nursery bag is not sufficient.
I will need to replant in good bonsai soil when the tree is stronger, hopefully depending on the tree health, I can still do that this season(spring atm).
The roots will be gradually fixed over a period of a few seasons or I might just go for the tourniquet method to grow better nebari for the tree(I have not seen the root system of this tree since purchase date) depending on what I find down there.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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Hi Jakes,
So a few things.
1. Your clamp idea looks great, but leaving it on too long might make the join look a bit artificial. So checking in the winter would be my thought.
2. I don’t see any problem wiring the trunks now from the photo. You can just start the wire around the sleeve and onto the wire bending the trunks out a bit. Maybe dropping the height of the sleeve to the join would make the transition and wiring more ‘natural’
3. The point of the hole in the trunk is so the swelling of the sub trunks goes inwards not outwards so that hole will get gobbled up in time I guess. I put duct seal in my elm’s hole and now after some swelling it is stuck in there.

I will get an update to this thread over this weekend (Spring here) ta for the reminder👍

Couple of House keeping issues for newbies including yourself @Jakes is to try to open a new thread with your tree not contaminate someone else’s thread.
Also if you click on your icon/profile and update your location and zone you will get better advice.
Thank you for your interest in finding this. Wow, I am on Google lol.
Charles
 

Jakes

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Hi Jakes,
So a few things.
1. Your clamp idea looks great, but leaving it on too long might make the join look a bit artificial. So checking in the winter would be my thought.
2. I don’t see any problem wiring the trunks now from the photo. You can just start the wire around the sleeve and onto the wire bending the trunks out a bit. Maybe dropping the height of the sleeve to the join would make the transition and wiring more ‘natural’
3. The point of the hole in the trunk is so the swelling of the sub trunks goes inwards not outwards so that hole will get gobbled up in time I guess. I put duct seal in my elm’s hole and now after some swelling it is stuck in there.

I will get an update to this thread over this weekend (Spring here) ta for the reminder👍

Couple of House keeping issues for newbies including yourself @Jakes is to try to open a new thread with your tree not contaminate someone else’s thread.
Also if you click on your icon/profile and update your location and zone you will get better advice.
Thank you for your interest in finding this. Wow, I am on Google lol.
Charles
Hi Charles,

Thank you for the reply.. Much appreciated and I value your advice.
Will definitely update my details, I was in a bit of a rush for answers on this tree.

I have plenty of trees which may need some advice. Since I don't have time to join a local group or workshop/club, I will be using this forum as a replacement for my questions and much needed advice.
Have a good one. 😁
 

Shibui

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For anyone using inflexible ties and clamps on developing trees. Please bear in mind that the trunk will thicken but your clamps will not. From experience this leads to unsightly swelling below (in this case) or above the ties. Wire marks on trunks is bad but clamp marks can be way worse so please check regularly and remove/change/alter your clamps as soon as you see any sign of bulging above or below. No point solving one problem only to introduce another one.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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Hi all,
Update for the thread.
So I have been trialing the use of Pumice,Scoria and bark chips for the last 2 seasons and not getting a very good result. Either the media particles are too small for the pot or too wet. It has had very minimal root growth. I will see how it goes this for another season, although my thinking is to go back in a box to strengthen up the root system.CB1F5D52-CAAC-4CF2-BFF6-747BAC361E7D.jpeg
Anyway, learning through doing.
Also trying organic fert not chemical fert this season which probably makes the top growth less full.
Charles
 
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For anyone using inflexible ties and clamps on developing trees. Please bear in mind that the trunk will thicken but your clamps will not. From experience this leads to unsightly swelling below (in this case) or above the ties. Wire marks on trunks is bad but clamp marks can be way worse so please check regularly and remove/change/alter your clamps as soon as you see any sign of bulging above or below. No point solving one problem only to introduce another one.
I never bound the cut point on my Chinese Elm and I never got any swelling…
 
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