Kotobuki JBP

Discussion in 'Pines' started by Maloghurst, Oct 12, 2017 at 9:44 AM.

  1. Maloghurst

    Maloghurst Mame

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Seattle WA
    I posted this tree before I bought it a year ago and thought I would show it’s progress. I welcome criticism. I will say that I realize the wiring is sloppy, this being one of the first times I’ve done it. There is also almost a “bar branch” on the lowest branches but I don’t have much choice as I won’t be cutting off anything from this tree for awhile. The upper section has some bar branches as well but these were spokes that I cut back to two to minmize the knuckle. Otherwise I’m just letting the top grow.
    And there is a scar (probably the graft)a couple inches from the bottom that would be nice to hide but this is the best front right now. I did try to root a lot of cuttings over this summer but they did not take. Once I repot in the spring I thinks the lowest branch might not seem so low either. At any rate it’s going to be a long process.
    Thank you, mike
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  3. Giga

    Giga Masterpiece

    Messages:
    3,418
    Location:
    Virginia beach, VA
    It is going to be a long road but a good one. I would have cut back all the way to the first little left branch on that long apex branch and used that for the new apex start.
     
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  4. Giga

    Giga Masterpiece

    Messages:
    3,418
    Location:
    Virginia beach, VA
    Wire that branch as your apex

    4AAF95D4-DBC6-4468-BBCF-D1C958B56436.jpeg
     
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  5. Velodog2

    Velodog2 Shohin

    Messages:
    345
    Location:
    Central Maryland
    If you really need to keep the bar branches near the bottom, an effective trick is to make one a back branch as you seem to be doing, then bend that one up above the level of the other one. From the front it will appear to be at a different level since you can't see where it attaches to the trunk. It can easily be made to look natural, and remember that even on old trees old branches do not have to emerge straight out or down. The bark on this is already nice!

    If you can rotate the tree left slightly it will allow your trunk chop to better become part of the left bend you are trying to initiate there.

    I think Giga has the right idea with the further pruning. I'd love to have some trees like this to work with as ten year or so projects.
     
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  6. Maloghurst

    Maloghurst Mame

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Seattle WA
    I think your right for down the road a bit. I’m letting the top grow as a sacrifice right now for healing the chop and to create better taper. I would like the top to thicken more before cutting back. Then work on the apex. That’s my plan anyway maybe I’m wrong. That’s why I didn’t wire any branching at the top.
     
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  7. Potawatomi13

    Potawatomi13 Omono

    Messages:
    1,406
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    This will bring rt branch forward and hide trunk when developed and also move lft branch even further to back. Not so good. Cut at top is better hidden instead of emphasized;).
     
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  8. Maloghurst

    Maloghurst Mame

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Seattle WA
    Yes. This is exactly what I saw though I couldn’t articulate why.
     
  9. Velodog2

    Velodog2 Shohin

    Messages:
    345
    Location:
    Central Maryland
    Perhaps so. I can’t judge the effect of the rotated branches. Often with pines however trying to hide a cut is less effective and certainly takes more time than using it to provide taper and emphasize direction change. Regardless, this will be a nice reee someday I’m sure!
     
  10. Maloghurst

    Maloghurst Mame

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Seattle WA
    I did see your point with utilizing the chop but if I turn it left then my first branch moves to far to the rear and if I turn it right then my back branch comes into view and does not look right.
     
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