Large Bonsai Turntable

[pwk5017]

It just now occurred to me that some other enthusiasts might enjoy the benefits of a big turntable, so I am offering a couple for sale. A local club member has a few of these, and I purchased one and replaced the top of it. I use to have a smaller turntable--the kind you buy for $20 and it spins, but isnt very usable--and i love this thing. Its large enough to handle all my bigger trees, and it makes repotting and styling much easier. As the photos show, the working surface is 24" diameter, the turntable fully extended is 27", and it compresses down to 19". It spins freely, but has a locking mechanism, and the hydraulic lift allows you to raise even the heaviest of trees. I havent maxed it out yet, but I sat on it once to see what it could handle and it lifted me(190lbs), so I think it will handle 99% of the trees out there. The bolts are below the working surface to not get in the way of moving pots and correcting planting angles. If you are interested, PM me, and I will go purchase the base off the member, and make a table top for you. Seeing as you cant even sniff at a turntable of this size and quality for under $500, I will be offering them for $190+shipping. I did a few estimates and shipping will be about $20 for the mid atlantic and east coast. I didnt do estimates for the west coast, but it would most likely be a slight increase.

 

[DougB]

Looks really interesting. Would you tell us more about the base? Also you may want to fill in the holes (plugs would be best) where the bolts are -- prevent filling up with unsightly dirt.

 

[pwk5017]

That sir, is a good idea. I will look into some type of cap. I'm actually putting one together for another forum member this weekend, so I'm sure he will appreciate your input

I am not sure about the bases. They are manually operated hydraulic, smooth spinning action, and have a locking mechanism to prevent further spinning. Also, made of stainless steel, and they are heavy as hell.

 

[edprocoat]

Just a few thoughts PWK, the base looks very sturdy and the legs spread far enough to hold a good load. The surface being 24" wide and the bolt pattern in the middle where the top attaches to the support looks to be about 4"-5" wide. Do you think this small a bolted platform will hold torque if a weighty tree is near the edge? I guess it would depend on the thickness and type of wood. Fill the holes with plastic wood putty, its stainable/paintable dries in a few hours and does not shrink much, leave it a tad above the surface, block sand it down level. Its also drillable so if you ever need to remove it you can get the bolts out.

ed

 

[pwk5017]

Just a few thoughts PWK, the base looks very sturdy and the legs spread far enough to hold a good load. The surface being 24" wide and the bolt pattern in the middle where the top attaches to the support looks to be about 4"-5" wide. Do you think this small a bolted platform will hold torque if a weighty tree is near the edge? I guess it would depend on the thickness and type of wood. Fill the holes with plastic wood putty, its stainable/paintable dries in a few hours and does not shrink much, leave it a tad above the surface, block sand it down level. Its also drillable so if you ever need to remove it you can get the bolts out.

ed

I thought the same--the bolt pattern that is--thats why I cut a 2x8 about 12" long inbetween the steel plate and the 24" wood top. This should distribute some of the support, which is what I think you were concerned about. The base weighs about 35 pounds I think. It would have to be a monster tree cantilevering off the side to stress this thing. Plus, those are 3/8" stainless bolts. Nothing is breaking them. For my purposes, I never thought to fill those depressions where the bolt heads are. The thing is going to get dirty etc. so I never concerned myself with it being cosmetically unappealing. If a cap product exists though, its a good idea to have a removable cap in place.

Im not a professional carpenter, but I do a fair amount of work on the side, and I havent found a wood putty that I like. The stuff I have used never really cured/dried properly and it was unsandable. Totally sucked, and I wished I had used spackling to fill the gap on that particular project. I think it was trim work awhile ago.

 

[edprocoat]

I was not worried about the bolts, lol. The 2x8 should brace it well giving you a wider base for edge torque. The plastic wood is a solvent based wood filler, unlike water based it dries by evaporation fairly fast. In a few hours it will be as hard as the wood and water will not touch it. It comes in white and natural, its stainable as its actually made with wood fibers. http://www.homedepot.com/s/plastic%2520wood?NCNI-5 easy to find too!

ed

 

[pwk5017]

You like the Dap in a can? You arent the first guy to recommend that product to me. I might spend the $5 and try it out. The stuff I used previously was still putty-like a day later. it never dried and it was obviously unsandable.

Yeah, the 2x8 helps I think. Atleast it made me feel more confident. I dont really have any enormous trees, so I havent tested it to its limits. My largest tree weighs 40-50 pounds.

 

[dkraft81]

What are you using for the base?

 

[bonsaibp]

The bases look to be from beauty shop chairs. I have one from an old barber shop that easily handles the biggest trees I have. I think I have a 36" top on mine. Your price seems reasonable for something that will last a good long time.

 

[Poink88]

The bases look to be from beauty shop chairs. I have one from an old barber shop that easily handles the biggest trees I have. I think I have a 36" top on mine. Your price seems reasonable for something that will last a good long time.

If I had a truck...I would have taken an old barber chair being given away on Craigslist last month. Built like a tank and I envisioned it to be perfect for this purpose but had to it pass up.

 

[Poink88]

For a really hard filler, try Weld Wood (I believe I've seen some in Walmart). I've used that stuff for decades, works really well. It is powder and you mix what you need with water. Not sure how easy it will be to remove if you want to remove the nuts later since once dried, it is harder than wood.

If you want to have that option (remove the nut later) fill the hole around the nut with molten candle. Basically just fill the top with Weld Wood.

I've spliced various sizes of wood with this stuff...then tried to break it. It always break somewhere else...not on the splice.

 

[Vance Wood]

You like the Dap in a can? You arent the first guy to recommend that product to me. I might spend the $5 and try it out. The stuff I used previously was still putty-like a day later. it never dried and it was obviously unsandable.

Yeah, the 2x8 helps I think. Atleast it made me feel more confident. I dont really have any enormous trees, so I havent tested it to its limits. My largest tree weighs 40-50 pounds.

If you want to use a good wood filler that is permanent, sand able, and dries in a couple of hours you should consider Epoxy Wood filler in the tube. It comes as a two part product with the filler wrapper around the activator. You just slice off a piece and roll it around in your hands to mix the two elements and push it into what ever you want to fill. You can sand it, stain it, carve it and put it in the oven for baby and me----sorry different product, that's patty-cake. However the epoxy product is extremely good and easy to use. You should be able to find someone's version at some wood working store even Home Depot has it.

 

[Fangorn]

One thing you might also want to do is add a non slip pad on the top. What I use is a product that is made to be used as a drawer liner for tool boxes. I get mine at Target, it comes in rolls, cuts easily and I glue it down with liquid nails or a similar adhesive.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

For a really hard filler, try Weld Wood (I believe I've seen some in Walmart).

If it were me, I'd epoxy the entire top with a penetrating epoxy similar to what people use for wooden boat building, bar tops, etc. I keep a gallon in the garage and use it regularly around the house to repair dry rot, termite damage, and all sorts of miscellaneous projects.

 

[Poink88]

If it were me, I'd epoxy the entire top with a penetrating epoxy similar to what people use for wooden boat building, bar tops, etc. I keep a gallon in the garage and use it regularly around the house to repair dry rot, termite damage, and all sorts of miscellaneous projects.

That would be better.

I haven't used it so I have no idea. How much is it and where to get them? Brand would help too. Thanks!

 

[Deshi]

waterlox marine.

 

[Dan W.]

I first saw these out at Michael Hagedorns. They are incredibly useful. As soon as we returned home we found as many old barber chairs available within the surrounding towns as we needed and made several. (Some need to have new plates welded to fit, as some of the chair bases are tilted instead of flat.)

$190 is incredibly fair pricing, as you can't find any ready to use turntables half as sturdy available for twice the price. If you're a handy man they aren't hard to make. But for anyone else I'd recommend buying these!

I have three more bases that I hope to use in the future when I actually get a studio put up for club events and study groups.