Large concrete pot design.....

[Wee]

I have read a few post about making concrete pots and have decided to try my hand at making a large one for my juniper. This one will be 15” X 19” X 3 ¾” inside dims. Simple design and it will be very heavy but I do not move this juniper around much anyway. Below is the juniper in it’s training pot that has the bottom falling out of it and the design of the new concrete pot. I’ll take pics of the process and post when I’m done.

Brian

 

[CWTurner]

Concrete pot

Brian,

You might also consider making the pot from Hypertufa (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypertufa), a portland cement vermiculite/peat moss blend. It will really cut down on the weight. Looks pretty cool too.

Though if you are going to use the concrete countertop methods and colors, that will be awesome as well.

Craig

 

[Wee]

I'm planning on using this with some black grout added to darken the color....I'll spray the inside with plasti dip.

Brian

 

[fore]

This is what Eric Krizovenski, the cement pot maker uses:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100091...word=mortar&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100091767

He's incredible: http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t4178-my-new-work-atelier-bonsai-element?highlight=atelier

 

[Wee]

Got the form finished today....I'll pour it tomorrow.

Brian

 

[Wee]

Got it poured today...Took about 3/4 of the 80 lb bag.....Now I just have to sit back and wait to see how it turns out.

Here is what was left over....

Brian

 

[RustyNail]

did you put wax paper on the table top so it wouldn't stick to it ? nice design .

 

[808an]

Looking good so far!

 

[edprocoat]

What did you use for a release agent on the form? The squares will be the drain holes I assume, it looks like a nice mold so it should come out great.

ed

 

[Wee]

I coated the inside with latex caulk then vegetable oil....The bottom is melamine so I hope it releases. The drain holes can't be seen in the last pic, those squares are the legs, the drain holes are under the plywood. I can't wait to see how it turns out. Building the form was the hard part, if it turns out good I can pour as many more as I like for about $5 each and some heavy duty labor, the 80 lb bags of concrete are a chore to move around.

Brian

 

[wlambeth]

I can't wait to see how it turns out.
This might be a good process to use for shohin sized posts.

 

[Poink88]

Nice try. I am just worried about the weight and bulk. It will be a back breaker.

I can't wait to see how it turns out.
This might be a good process to use for shohin sized posts.

I wouldn't think so just because it is thick and will add bulk to a supposedly small pot. It can easily throw off the proportions.

 

[edprocoat]

I coated the inside with latex caulk then vegetable oil....The bottom is melamine so I hope it releases. The drain holes can't be seen in the last pic, those squares are the legs, the drain holes are under the plywood. I can't wait to see how it turns out. Building the form was the hard part, if it turns out good I can pour as many more as I like for about $5 each and some heavy duty labor, the 80 lb bags of concrete are a chore to move around.

Brian

The "squares" I mentioned were actually rectangles. They can be seen in the CAD drawing and the first picture, not the corner/end ones but the ones in the bottom nearer the middle.

ed

 

[Wee]

For smaller pots the concrete mix would have to be changed to something like thinset as posted earlier by Fore.... Neli has a post about making smaller pots here I think she used white cement with some added fibers for hers. I'm going to make some smaller pots as well.

Dario you are correct about the weight, it will be a 2 person job to move, luckily the kid lives close. One thing for sure the wind will not blow this pot over.

Ed....You had it right the first time, I had figured on 6 but when I actually started to build it I realized 4 was plenty. I may add a 3/4" hole right in the center if I think it needs it, I can also add small holes for wire to secure the trees into the pot as needed.

Stay tuned I'll pop it out of the form Friday.

Brian

 

[Poink88]

You need to make your form collapsible especially the inside one. Either that or avoid square sides and add taper/slope so it is easier to pull the form out.

The inside form also should not absorb any water...else it will swell and either make the removal difficult or worse, break the pot (or both). Form release helps but it can only do so much.

Good luck!

 

[edprocoat]

I have made many cement pots over the years using Hydraulic Cement, fast drying and can be cured underwater which guarantees no cracking ! As for the mold release I used different things but the best I found were simple. Pam cooking spray works great on wood molds, it absorbs into the wood waterproofing it and releases cleanly, not even cement stain on the wood when removed.

I have also built pots using Hydraulic cement and stones laying it like masonry for a very strong and interesting effect.

ed

 

[Wee]

I didn't even think about Pam....DUH. It may be hard to see but there is slope built into both the inside and outside molds as well as the pieces used to form the drain holes.

Brian

 

[Poink88]

Folks I used to work with making ornate concrete balusters use grease as form release.

 

[Wee]

I had a bunch of limestone balusters made for a set of stairs once....Sure wish I would have kept the extra ones. They would have made nice monkey poles.

Brian

 

[Poink88]

Very nice but those are turned, not poured.

I agree, would make great looking stands.