Thanks for this....and ...you're welcomeIf you've ever made air-layers, you probably know that nothing happens with deciduous species until after the foliage has hardened in spring. The rooting process is driven by photsyntate and auxin descending in the phloem. The same must be true for a cutting - it just has to survive without water supplied by the mother plant.
So, I would wrap the cuttings in plastic and put them in the refigerator until spring; then do pretty much as the others have advised in this thread. Aternatively, it has been a standard practice of gardeners to bundle cuttings and 'heel (partially bury) them in' outside over the winter.
BTW, thanks for bring this up. I have been planning to chop off a fairly big chunk of my suiju, but I hadn't thought about rooting the cutting.
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Honestly, I've got the time to do it now but can't guarantee I will later. Also, the "6 weeks until growing season starts" comment is more of a guess. A few years ago, I had in ground tridents pushing leaves in January so who knows.
Yes sir.... On the Jackie Hiller Elms I have, one I rooted last year was right at an inch... Now, I will say this: most the cuttings I have had the most success with- of any species- were taken later in the year. Generally you won't get any roots until temps get to about 70 degrees, and the smaller ones especially it seems do not have sufficient energy/ hormones stored in the cutting to keep them alive until the temps get higher if they are taken before leaf break... The larger cuttings have more stored energy and hormones and seem to live longer even through cold weather to pop leaves and potentially roots once it gets warm enough. It is easier/ better to wait, but there is no reason not to TRY it...
I've had a go with very large Cork bark elm cuttings and had next to no success. In the photo below, the tree on the left was the cutting donor (and still lives)
One cutting died almost immediately and the other two limped through the first year - and a further one died over the first winter.
The final one (the largest on the right) has largely died - leaving a single, narrow live vein.
this has been my experience...the ones that seem to root struggle...send out some shoots, but within a year they just fail for whatever reason...i've not had much luck with 1''+ sizes. I have 1/4 to 1/2'' sizes with good success. 3 out of 3 (from the same tree taken at the same size). Those are now being grown as ROR cuttings over rocks, coral, and a chinese soapstone pillar with a dragon up top. I plant to post pictures of them next year or the year after when I check the rootsI've had a go with very large Cork bark elm cuttings and had next to no success. In the photo below, the tree on the left was the cutting donor (and still lives)
One cutting died almost immediately and the other two limped through the first year - and a further one died over the first winter.
The final one (the largest on the right) has largely died - leaving a single, narrow live vein.
It's hard to hold a camera, take pictures, and do bonsai work involving soil!
