Large European Hornbeam yamadori no.2 - advice is welcome

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Slovakia, Central Europe
USDA Zone
8?
#1
This is the second tree from this thread: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/2-european-hornbeams-almost-flawless-yamadori-material.27054/
The tree grew pretty intensely throughout the season - many new branches, roots are sticking from the bottom of the container. Still I plan to keep it in this container for at least a year and let it grow freely (except for the things discussed below). The taper of this tree is fantastic, the nebari is almost perfect (a bit unevenly distributed but hey - this is yamadori!) and part of it is still hidden below substrate.

Here's few photos I took today with animation being done automatically by Google.
DSC_0246.jpg DSC_0247.jpg DSC_0248.jpg DSC_0249.jpg DSC_0250.jpg DSC_0251.jpg DSC_0252.jpg DSC_0253.jpg DSC_0254.jpg DSC_0246-ANIMATION.gif

Some of the branches seem a bit too thick - so I'll probably shorten them. I'll wire the branches I want to keep. I'll probably remove those thin long roots emerging at the base of the trunk.

What I'd like to discuss is shortening the top. One reason is that the last portion of the trunk has little taper and the other is that the cut I did was not very good - it is not callousing well - probably the bark around the rim died. So one option is to carve the center wood a bit and cut the bark so it starts callousing over or the other option would be to make the big cut again a bit lower. That also present few more option: one is to do the cut the way it is now - on the same side as the big lower cut (that is callousing nicely) or do it in opposite direction. What are your opinions?
 
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Belgium
#2
I would half the top portion. Keep the cut on the back as is the other in photo 1. Nice find.
 
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Vancouver Island, British Columbia
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#3
I would half the top portion. Keep the cut on the back as is the other in photo 1. Nice find.
I agree, selecting photo 0249, there is a larger branch centered part way up the upper portion and coming forward with another change of direction shortly up the branch. The cut on the back at that level would give you an apex coming forward slightly with opportunity to develop taper and additional movement later. Then consider planting angle for best trunk movement and nebari placement. Nice piece to work with.
 
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Location
Slovakia, Central Europe
USDA Zone
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#5
Nice tree. maybe cutting there ?
I have done a V shaped cut on it - something like you suggest but upside down. Have you ever done cut as you suggest? In my opinion that will never heal - there will be nothing that would draw the callous upwards.
 
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Location
Ithaca, NY
USDA Zone
5b
#6
This is pretty perfect for collected material, branching in all the righ spots, etc. I think the only thing is that your best front for nebari, basal flare, and movement (picture 4) is also your worst front in terms of the angle of the trunk. The trunk is moving away from the viewer, this may be mitigated some by a new planting angle, and growing the new leader so that the apex is coming toward the viewer. It seems like you haven’t identified what side you want to be the front yet, and all of your trunk chop decisions should be informed by what is your chosen front. Really awesome tree though!
 
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Location
France
#7
I have done a V shaped cut on it - something like you suggest but upside down. Have you ever done cut as you suggest? In my opinion that will never heal - there will be nothing that would draw the callous upwards.
I have no hornbeam so no expériences on it, but it heals very well.. same cut here -> http://www.espritsdegoshin.fr/forum-bonsai/topic.html?id=10890
 
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Location
Slovakia, Central Europe
USDA Zone
8?
#8
I have no hornbeam so no expériences on it, but it heals very well.. same cut here -> http://www.espritsdegoshin.fr/forum-bonsai/topic.html?id=10890
Oh I see - that i standard "salami" cut - as you can see I did the same at the top (too high though). On your picture it looked like you were suggesting upside-down V cut. I did a V cut (not upside-down) but the tree is a green cloud now - letting it grow (almost) freely for second season. When it sheds leaves I'll do some photos and post them here.
 

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