Large trident groundayer

davetree

davetree

Omono
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St. Paul Minnesota
USDA Zone
4
Here are the before and after pics of a trident maple that I just ground layered. The tree had a bad base with roots growing straight down that had fused and made up the bottom part of the trunk. I stripped the bark and scraped the trunk in a four-inch ring around the trunk, cleaned the cuts with a sharp knife, applied rooting hormone powder to the cut, and finished by matting a ring of spaghnum (also dusted with rooting hormone) around the top of the cut. Then I back filled with my standard mix into the top of a nursery pot cut to proper size. I was lucky and was able to get the top of the pot over the tree without having to cut it. I was able to screw it into the soil of the bottom pot to stabilize it.
image.jpgimage.jpg
The tree will be about four or five inches shorter and will have better movement. I can also get rid of the bottom branch, which is a graft. Not to mention it should have a decent base.
 
I think you have made the right choice...this tree will be much better with the new roots.
John
 
I agree that it will make a better looking tree. I thought that ground layers were best performed after leaf hardening... Did I understand that wrong?
 
Some people layer at bud swell, some after leaves have hardened. I have a short growing season so I am layering now.
 
Good eye. You just went from average stock to great potential. I truly hope this takes for you. I know these operations are often extremely hard decisions, but IMHO you certainly made the right choice. Keep us posted.
 
I don't have anything to add that hasn't been said. It's going to look a lot better, not that it was awful before or anything. I look forward to seeing more progress.
 
Thanks I am keeping my fingers crossed. It's a strong tree though, so I am expecting good things.
 
Update on this ground layer - we had the coldest wettest spring I can remember here. At one point we had sun only 15 out of 90 days. This tree did nothing for ten weeks, no roots no callousing. In the last two weeks we have had warm weather. I looked this morning and big white roots are starting to grow ! I was getting a little nervous but it looks like its going to make it.
 
Glad to hear of the success. You might not be able to separate this fall though. I wouldnt rush it. I assume you have a greenhouse as well considering you are growing tridents in MN. Aside from making a shorter, better tree, the groundlayer is going to give you a nice flat and shallow root system. You will be able to get the tree out of that dopey pot and into something more fitting! Good move.
 
Here's an update on this tree. It grew radial roots all around the base. The roots have filled the top container and the tree will be separated and potted in a few weeks. I cut a lot of branches off today, wired up an apex, and sealed the big wounds. There's a lot left to do. The main branch is just a stub on the left and has to grow. A couple of branches on top will have to run to help heal the wounds. There is a little reverse taper between the 2nd and 3rd right branch that needs to be carved out. But the tree has a good base now and the rest of the branching can now be built.
 

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That's quite a chunky looking trident now...much better. I'm not sure about the lowest right branch, though...it's pretty straight and coming out of an inside curve. I'm wondering if thread grafting another branch a bit higher then that one and giving it a little wiggle with wire might be a good idea....or just remove it. Keep up the good work.
 
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Dave,

Nice progress...would love to see the new nebari.

I plan on doing the same and wondering if you can echo on my idea. Just below the ring barked area, apply a plastic bib all around so the roots cannot go down the old soil. In a way, almost like growing it on a tile and force the roots to go out flat radially.

It can be cut shorter than the radius of the main pot so water can still go down but at the outer edge of the "bib".

Thank you.
 
Poink88 said:
Dave,

Nice progress...would love to see the new nebari.

I plan on doing the same and wondering if you can echo on my idea. Just below the ring barked area, apply a plastic bib all around so the roots cannot go down the old soil. In a way, almost like growing it on a tile and force the roots to go out flat radially.

It can be cut shorter than the radius of the main pot so water can still go down but at the outer edge of the "bib".

Thank you.
Click to expand...
.

I think it's a good idea - except you might dry the roots out or heat them up too much if there is a collar right underneath them. I don't know. I know some people place wedges under the bark of tridents when layering to flare the base more.
 
The roots on this tree all seemed to sprout sideways from the trunk and not down, so I didn't really worry about forcing them to grow flat. I will take some pics of the roots when I separate in a few weeks.
 
davetree said:
.

I think it's a good idea - except you might dry the roots out or heat them up too much if there is a collar right underneath them. I don't know. I know some people place wedges under the bark of tridents when layering to flare the base more.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I have a boxwood airlayer going with wedges right now. Hopefully, we will see the results around summer. :)
 
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