Laurel Oak yellowing

[IzzyG]

Hello all. I’m hoping someone could give some advice. Got this Laurel oak about 3 weeks ago from Florida and is now in Wisconsin. Been watering it once per day fully(until water drains the bottom holes) and giving it morning sun, afternoon shade(totaling 6 hours before it gets shaded by a larger tree above head). Wigert’s had fertilizer pellets on it so I’ve not been supplementing.

A week or so ago, some leaves started yellowing and some have even browned. I’m unsure if this is from acclimating(that’s Wigert’s guess) or something else. Soil feels ever so slightly damp every morning so it needs watering but not overly wet to skip. My two concerns are my hard water(tested pH is at 7.8) and the soil pH(test showed 7.9). I believe chlorosis can occur above pH 7 with them so I’ve supplemented with Miracid since I had some for my Azalea and also 1/2tsp of vinegar per watering can(brings pH down to 7 per testing). However, the leaves are not yellowing per chlorosis symptom(green veins, leave yellowing). Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

 

[IzzyG]

 

[crab apple]

I'd like to see a whole picture of that. I'm kinda interested in one of Wigerts laurel oaks as well. I have seen their video on the Laurel oaks. I have one I collected out of a swampy area that's doing great and it never seems to dry out. I'm worried I used too much organics in the soil mix cuz with the rain and sprinklers it never dries out but it seems to be doing fine regardless.

 

[IzzyG]

I'd like to see a whole picture of that. I'm kinda interested in one of Wigerts laurel oaks as well. I have seen their video on the Laurel oaks. I have one I collected out of a swampy area that's doing great and it never seems to dry out. I'm worried I used too much organics in the soil mix cuz with the rain and sprinklers it never dries out but it seems to be doing fine regardless.

 

[IzzyG]

No idea why that posted sideways but it was straight when I took the photo lol.

 

[crab apple]

That's pretty cool, I hope ya figure out the yellowing thing.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I would try a watering with a half dose (from label directions) of an Iron Supplement Fertilizer. It should have Iron (Fe), usually as sulfate or as Fe EDTA, and a smaller amount of manganese (Mn), not to be confused with magnesium. A number of "micro-nutrient" blends will have iron and manganese if you want to cover all your bases.

yellowing most commonly is an iron deficiency, but not always. Iron plays a role in chlorophyll metabolism. It is part of the porphyrin potion of the chlorophyll's structure.

Sometimes yellowing can be from a magnesium deficiency. Magnesium also has a role in chlorophyll metabolism, different than the one iron has.

A separate watering, about 5 ml (by vol, roughly a teaspoon) per gallon, (4 liters) of Epsom salts can supplement magnesium and sulfate, as Epsom Salts, available at any pharmacy for about $8 per 5 pound bag. Concentration of magnesium sulfate can be from 5 ml / gallon to 15 ml per gallon safely, no chance of harming trees. The magnesium is used in the creation of chlorophyll. Epsom salts help if your regular N-P-K fertilizer has been low in calcium and magnesium.

 

[IzzyG]

I would try a watering with a half dose (from label directions) of an Iron Supplement Fertilizer. It should have Iron (Fe), usually as sulfate or as Fe EDTA, and a smaller amount of manganese (Mn), not to be confused with magnesium. A number of "micro-nutrient" blends will have iron and manganese if you want to cover all your bases.

yellowing most commonly is an iron deficiency, but not always. Iron plays a role in chlorophyll metabolism. It is part of the porphyrin potion of the chlorophyll's structure.

Sometimes yellowing can be from a magnesium deficiency. Magnesium also has a role in chlorophyll metabolism, different than the one iron has.

A separate watering, about 5 ml (by vol, roughly a teaspoon) per gallon, (4 liters) of Epsom salts can supplement magnesium and sulfate, as Epsom Salts, available at any pharmacy for about $8 per 5 pound bag. Concentration of magnesium sulfate can be from 5 ml / gallon to 15 ml per gallon safely, no chance of harming trees. The magnesium is used in the creation of chlorophyll. Epsom salts help if your regular N-P-K fertilizer has been low in calcium and magnesium.

I have this product for micro nutrients(instructions call for every 6-8 weeks). I’ll start supplementing the

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I would expect iron-related chlorosis to show up in the youngest foliage though. Because that's the most photosynthetically active foliage and it grows faster than the plant can recycle it from older foliage. The mottled pattern is also something that makes me think, combined with the fact that it's older foliage only(?), of calcium deficiency due to a lockout.

With your water pH, that's a possibility; calcium is hard to take up for a plant if the pH is too high, tap water and rocky substrates are chock full of calcium, but it has to be available. A trace element mixture will help. But keep in mind that the already affected foliage will stay like this (with possible death of the patches/spots themselves) until it drops.
So keep an eye out to see if there's a progression, if the symptoms stall, you're in the clear. If they progress, it's time to revisit the diagnosis and see if there's more that can be done.

 

[IzzyG]

I would expect iron-related chlorosis to show up in the youngest foliage though. Because that's the most photosynthetically active foliage and it grows faster than the plant can recycle it from older foliage. The mottled pattern is also something that makes me think, combined with the fact that it's older foliage only(?), of calcium deficiency due to a lockout.

With your water pH, that's a possibility; calcium is hard to take up for a plant if the pH is too high, tap water and rocky substrates are chock full of calcium, but it has to be available. A trace element mixture will help. But keep in mind that the already affected foliage will stay like this (with possible death of the patches/spots themselves) until it drops.
So keep an eye out to see if there's a progression, if the symptoms stall, you're in the clear. If they progress, it's time to revisit the diagnosis and see if there's more that can be done.

Thanks! I’m taking photos and keeping an eye out hoping it’ll turn around soon. I figure the yellowing leaves are likely to be goners. Luckily they’re sparsely spread and not any single one branch or area.