Leaf Scorch or Fert Burn?

just.wing.it

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I will post pictures when I get home later today...
Yesterday I noticed that the new growth in the ends of several shoots on my Chinese Elm turned black and look burned, if you will....
I think it may be due to a heavy dose of water soluble fertilizer I gave it 2 days ago.
My only other thought was leaf scorch....but I really don't know.
Is there some tell tale sign of fert burn?
 

just.wing.it

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can also be a fungal problem, a plant really suffering reverse osmosis from too much fertilizer would dry and die completely and suddenly, not just some parts
The parts that turned black appear to be wet, or moist.
Not dry and crispy.

You're saying fert burn usually makes it dry?
 

rockm

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The parts that turned black appear to be wet, or moist.
Not dry and crispy.

You're saying fert burn usually makes it dry?

This sounds like a fungal problem. Fertilizer "burn" does kill roots, which compromises the tree's ability to take up water.
 

Anthony

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Hmm, interesting could be fertiliser burn weakening the tree and then it becomes susceptible to fungal attack.
Chinese Elms don't normally need strong fertiliser.

Just a 1/2 or 1/3 strength, once a week into moist soil, when actively growing.
Never saw one ill down here, so I can't offer any advice.
Can you lift and check the root mass -- is it pot bound ?
Hope it heals.
Good Day
Anthony
 

augustine

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Blackspot on Chinese Elm is very common in our area (and I live close to you). You can spray with daconil to keep it from spreading and make sure you spray next year starting at budbreak and every 10 to 14 days afterward for a total of 3 applications. And don't water the foliage. Clean up any falling leaves if possible and place the leves in plastic bag and dispose. It should be fine.
 

ConorDash

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Am I right in thinking that it'd be difficult to burn the leaves of Chinese Elm (depending on region of origin)?
They are a very hardy tree and can withstand strong sun, as far as I know
 

Anthony

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Yes, @ConorDash ,

once acclimated [ i.e. Purchase from Mr.Ming [ Soho ] or Red Sun Bonsai ] to our climate.
Which was one week in bright light [ to import you have to remove all soil and then a week at Plant Quarantine ]
with new soil and not one lost.

All mother trees still alive [ 1989 and 1993 and 1994. ] with no insect or fungal etc. problems.

Very easy tree to grow and root cuttings often change to another type of elm - sports.
No complaints.
Good Day
Anthony
 

just.wing.it

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I apologize for the lack of pics on this one... it's been raining, and I've been slammed with work... I'll get some today though...
 

just.wing.it

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Can you lift and check the root mass -- is it pot bound ?
I don't know, it's one I got online for $20.
It's wired into the pot securely.
I have had it long enough that it got acclimated, grew like a weed for a few weeks, then I cut away crotch branches and a few unwanted branches.
The branches I left had been growing well, they went from 1" to 6+", then this happened...
As soon as the sun comes up. I'll get a pic or two.
 

petegreg

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Yesterday I noticed that the new growth in the ends of several shoots on my Chinese Elm turned black and look burned, if you will....
Have you excluded spider mites?
 

markyscott

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Looks fungal to me. Probably anthracnose, also called black spot, as has already been suggested. The disease is most prevalent in the spring when the conditions are cool and moist, but can also happen in the summer when conditions are favorable (prolonged rainy periods like you're having now). This fungus thrives in damp conditions.

Here are some tips.

Prevention
  • Grow your tree in a coarse-grained, well-drained soil. Avoid lots of fine-grained material (1/8" or less) that will keep your tree overly damp in a bonsai pot.
  • When you water, water in the morning and don't water the foliage. Check again in the late afternoon, but avoid watering at night.
  • Grow your elm in the full sun or light (<25%) shade.
  • Adopt a dormant spray regiment to avoid fungal problems in the spring.
  • Make sure that you have space between your trees and that they're not too crowded together.
Solutions
  • Prune back infected branches to a healthy section and dispose of in sealed plastic bags. Make sure to cut back beyond ALL the diseased leaves. Even those with just one spot.
  • Disinfect your pruning tools to keep the disease from spreading to healthy plants. Wipe the blades off with alcohol or a household disinfectant and allow the blades to dry before using.
  • Clean up fallen leaf debris and dispose of in plastic sealed bags.
  • Spray with Daconil. Use a good pump sprayer that delivers a fine mist and get all the leaves. Spray when the foliage is dry.
As long as the fungus is restricted to the foliage, this is easily treatable. If it spreads to the branches and trunk it will result in wholesale collapse of entire branches. At that point it's really not curable so it's important to take timely steps. Your case looks totally treatable.

Scott
 

ConorDash

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Looks fungal to me. Probably anthracnose, also called black spot, as has already been suggested. The disease is most prevalent in the spring when the conditions are cool and moist, but can also happen in the summer when conditions are favorable (prolonged rainy periods like you're having now). This fungus thrives in damp conditions.

Here are some tips.

Prevention
  • Grow your tree in a coarse-grained, well-drained soil. Avoid lots of fine-grained material (1/8" or less) that will keep your tree overly damp in a bonsai pot.
  • When you water, water in the morning and don't water the foliage. Check again in the late afternoon, but avoid watering at night.
  • Grow your elm in the full sun or light (<25%) shade.
  • Adopt a dormant spray regiment to avoid fungal problems in the spring.
  • Make sure that you have space between your trees and that they're not too crowded together.
Solutions
  • Prune back infected branches to a healthy section and dispose of in sealed plastic bags. Make sure to cut back beyond ALL the diseased leaves. Even those with just one spot.
  • Disinfect your pruning tools to keep the disease from spreading to healthy plants. Wipe the blades off with alcohol or a household disinfectant and allow the blades to dry before using.
  • Clean up fallen leaf debris and dispose of in plastic sealed bags.
  • Spray with Daconil. Use a good pump sprayer that delivers a fine mist and get all the leaves. Spray when the foliage is dry.
As long as the fungus is restricted to the foliage, this is easily treatable. If it spreads to the branches and trunk it will result in wholesale collapse of entire branches. At that point it's really not curable so it's important to take timely steps. Your case looks totally treatable.

Scott

Great post Markyscott
 
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