Learning Tree

brewmeister83

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Hi all!

Since I've been on the forum for the better part of the year I figured it was time to really post some "work in progress" photos of at least one of my trees. Back in March I purchased this Elm in Florida while visiting relatives. It was the only one I could find at the nursery that had no major wire marks, and as bad as it looks had the best roots.
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It was in a organic heavy peat based potting mix, so the first thing I did was transplant it into a better soil mix and just water and fertilize the heck out of it over the summer so it would be plenty strong for what I was planning to do to it later this year. Fast forward to this week...
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Whatever I did the plant loved it! 20-30" new growth and roots coming out the bottom of a packed pot! Looking over the tree I realized that there were a number of areas with inverse taper where the tree had been trunk chopped several times in the past and the resulting callus tissue had bulged around the un-worked cuts. There were also several branches that had been split and bent, with the resulting callus facing towards the new front I had decided on. All in all, a lot of carving work and branch removal had to be done to the tree.
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With so many large areas that needed to be worked on, I decided that the best plan of attack was not to cut such large areas and hope they would heal seamlessly with the trunk. Instead I would work the cuts into connected areas of hollowed shari and multiple uros that would give the tree the image of an old elm that had sustained a lot of storm damage and broken limbs, but was stubborn enough to keep on kickin'!
 

brewmeister83

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With all the twigging removed I found that the front I had decided on was not the best in terms of trunk shape, so I had to revise my plans a bit. Regardless, I fired up the dremel and got to work.
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I had to revise my plan of attack again after carving out this hollow. My new proposed front had it hidden in the back, but I liked it so much that I decided to make it a feature facing front.

Five hours later, after loads of carving and branch removal with a smidgen of wiring, I was left with this...
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I feel that this "front" has the best taper although the work is far from over on this tree. I'll let it recover for the next season or two and hopefully it will backbud from the trunk enough that I can select the future main branching. More detailed carving will also be carried out at a later date.

After that I plan on taking care of any areas of inverse taper by threadgrafting sacrifice branches that will beef up the trunk. (these branches will then be removed and turned into uro themselves to fit with the overall character of the tree) I also plan to use the same threadgrafts to fix areas of faulty roots on the lower area of the trunk and make a wider and more correct nebari. Eventually, I also plan on connecting all the major areas of deadwood to create a true hollowed trunk.

Although I have only taken the first steps at creating a better bonsai out of this elm, I realize that I am realistically looking at a 10-15 year project before it starts to look decent. I look forward to every step of the way and all the techniques I have to learn and experiment with :eek:
 
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Tieball

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Nice work completed

I look forward to seeing the continued progress on the tree. Nicely done so far....I think you're headed in the right direction.
 

M. Frary

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Gotta love the Elms. They're like a Timex. Takes a lickin' and keeps on thicken'.

Mike Frary.
 

brewmeister83

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Actually had a question I haven't really found an answer to in my bonsai books... If you have an area of deadwood like the hollow on the tree above, does it create a sort of visual "negative space" that cancels out the slight bulge created by the deadwood, or is this still considered an area of inverse taper that I need to carve more to eliminate? Thoughts, anyone?
 

brewmeister83

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Well, I've been putting this off for a while, but I've finally come to terms with the humbling experience that is admitting failure, and that it may be more important than any success I can show here. This tree did not make it this past winter, whether to the fact that last year was particularly harsh or a fault of my own doing, I do not know. I waited until early summer, hoping it was just taking it's time awakening, but it never did. Every day when I went to water, I would spy it's skeleton in the cold frame, an eerie reminder of the fact I had lost a tree I had pinned so many hopes on. I called this thread "learning tree" and it has done that at the expense of its life. This may be a cathartic exercise, but here goes:

I am sorry...
sorry that I have failed you
sorry that we are not together
sorry that I cannot watch you grow
sorry that you had to give
so much for me to learn
so little.
I am sorry my little elm.

So as I heel in all my trees this weekend for the coming cold I am reminded of this one poor little elm. I'm doubling my winter preparations this year!
 

M. Frary

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It was a good little tree. R.I.P.
It will be sorely missed. I'm sure.
I would imagine being from Florida last winter was too much for it.
Was it Chinese or American?
 

brewmeister83

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It was a good little tree. R.I.P.
It will be sorely missed. I'm sure.
I would imagine being from Florida last winter was too much for it.
Was it Chinese or American?

Chinese - took major trunk chops and made it through the first winter like a champ growing over 24" last year, so I expected it to make it through this one too. Guess not.
 

M. Frary

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Lost my best 5 Chinese elms last winter.
 

brewmeister83

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They were also learning trees. I learned Chinese elms can't take minus 30 degrees.

Ditto. I kinda expected this though in the back of my mind... around here the only thing Asian growing in people's lawns are JM's... no tridents, no korean hornbeams, and no chinese elms. I found out why myself - bought a bunch of trident and hornbeam seedlings two years ago - I only have one of the hornbeam left and it's not growing much... I think unless I move further south like D.C. or Virginia I'm just going to have to use native alternatives up here with the winters I have. (reason #1 why I don't have a JBP, good thing they really don't float my boat 'cause I'm SOL otherwise)
 

vaibatron

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Ditto. I kinda expected this though in the back of my mind... around here the only thing Asian growing in people's lawns are JM's... no tridents, no korean hornbeams, and no chinese elms. I found out why myself - bought a bunch of trident and hornbeam seedlings two years ago - I only have one of the hornbeam left and it's not growing much... I think unless I move further south like D.C. or Virginia I'm just going to have to use native alternatives up here with the winters I have. (reason #1 why I don't have a JBP, good thing they really don't float my boat 'cause I'm SOL otherwise)


I wish I was the bearer of better news but I live in VA and my two favorite elms bit the dust last winter...


Heartbreaking
 

Tieball

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I've had a Hornbeam for several years -- about eight. Slow growers in my climate. Growing in a medium size wooden box 12 x 16 x 5.5. However, only in the last four years I have noticed good growth in the trunk diameter, some ramifications, top cut wound healing finally starting.

I don't have good luck with Chinese Elms. I have excellent luck with American Elms.

Zelkova Elms are very slow in my area also....very slow....even when ground growing.
 

coh

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I've got a Korean hornbeam, a Chinese elm, and several trident maples in the ground here in western NY. The hornbeam has now been through 4 or 5 winters including the past 2 extremely cold ones. It took a while to get established but has been growing well the past few years. The tridents have only been in the ground a year or two, but again - two very cold winters.

Potted specimens, though, I wouldn't subject to a winter outdoors. Those go in my climate controlled storage shelter, maintained at 27-28 F through the winter. So far, so good with a number of potted specimens of those species.

Chris
 

Chuah

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Was It Tasty Mai Fun?
Was It Tight Mo Fo?
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WMW - IOUW!
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