Let's Style This Yamadori!

Fabledable

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I went out hunting early spring and picked up this great Thuja. Its survived the process and will be in recovery for the rest of this year, but I want to start thinking of design decisions.

It has a wonderful base with a very interesting root coming off the left, that matches the movement of the trunk. However, after this it has bolted straight up and back and has 3 long leggy branches. I have an idea for its base structure, let me know what you think!

White-Deadwood
Yellow- Trunk
Red- Cut

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River's Edge

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Just above the top red line there is a live branch coming forward. I think the best design involves retaining that branch for the future trunk. The parallel branches on the right side should be bent for movement before being jinned and or removed entirely.
I would let the tree recover and put on extra foliage for two or three years before beginning styling. I had a similar project with an Alaskan Yellow Cedar that was mostly deadwood and trunk with very little foliage. I brought it back slowly for three years until it looked like a out of control bush, then started. When acquired it looked like it would not make it due to sparse and weak foliage, much like above.
The picture seems to suggest the tree is housed indoors, is that correct.
 

Fabledabel

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Just above the top red line there is a live branch coming forward. I think the best design involves retaining that branch for the future trunk. The parallel branches on the right side should be bent for movement before being jinned and or removed entirely.
I would let the tree recover and put on extra foliage for two or three years before beginning styling. I had a similar project with an Alaskan Yellow Cedar that was mostly deadwood and trunk with very little foliage. I brought it back slowly for three years until it looked like a out of control bush, then started. When acquired it looked like it would not make it due to sparse and weak foliage, much like above.
The picture seems to suggest the tree is housed indoors, is that correct.


Thanks for the reply! With the tree infront of me, there are actually no forward branches above that red line on the tree. It may just look like that because of the picture.

The tree itself is kept outdoors in partial shade.
 

River's Edge

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Thanks for the reply! With the tree infront of me, there are actually no forward branches above that red line on the tree. It may just look like that because of the picture.

The tree itself is kept outdoors in partial shade.
Then the branch must be just below the red line although it appears differently. That branch will likely require channneling to change direction and create a better design. Very possible with improved health. Good Luck.
 

Fabledabel

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Then the branch must be just below the red line although it appears differently. That branch will likely require channneling to change direction and create a better design. Very possible with improved health. Good Luck.

Gotcha. Yes that branch starts just below. What do you mean by channeling?
 

Hartinez

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I think trying to visualize design is a bit premature at this point with so little foliage. I’d also say letting it recover for 2 to 3 years will give you more options in regards to final design. You may find, as @River's Edge said, that keeping those live branches above your proposed cut line will yield a better trunk line in the long run.
 

River's Edge

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Gotcha. Yes that branch starts just below. What do you mean by channeling?
Channeling is a technique used to bend branches that are to stiff to bend with normal techniques. I suspect that branch will be that way. The technique is to cut a channel in the branch at the site of the proposed bend. This removes enough material to create more flexibility and allow the bend to occur without breaking the branch. You can think of it this way, the core is hollowed out and the exterior is bent. If done properly the joint heals over nicely in time. The channel is usually made on the inside of the bend and is less noticeable that way even while healing.
 

Fabledabel

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Channeling is a technique used to bend branches that are to stiff to bend with normal techniques. I suspect that branch will be that way. The technique is to cut a channel in the branch at the site of the proposed bend. This removes enough material to create more flexibility and allow the bend to occur without breaking the branch. You can think of it this way, the core is hollowed out and the exterior is bent. If done properly the joint heals over nicely in time. The channel is usually made on the inside of the bend and is less noticeable that way even while healing.

Understood. Thanks for the advice!
 

Wilson

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Nice find dude! Thuya are usually crazy growers, so I am sure you will have this one covered in green quick enough. Keep us updated.
 

GGB

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I have to join the chorus unfortunately. That tree looks like it needs some serious TLC. If it were an elm of something I wouldn't even bother mentioning it but that thing seems almost to be on the brink. Perhaps it's a trick of the camera?
Either way I definitely wouldn't chop anytime soon, just based on the super limited foliar mass.
I like it, wish I had places near me to collect this species, I think it's one of North America's best.

EDIT just reread the original post and noticed you said it had put on growth since this photo. That's great news
 

Fabledable

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I have to join the chorus unfortunately. That tree looks like it needs some serious TLC. If it were an elm of something I wouldn't even bother mentioning it but that thing seems almost to be on the brink. Perhaps it's a trick of the camera?
Either way I definitely wouldn't chop anytime soon, just based on the super limited foliar mass.
I like it, wish I had places near me to collect this species, I think it's one of North America's best.

EDIT just reread the original post and noticed you said it had put on growth since this photo. That's great news

The foliage was actually much greener, it just looks this way due to colour correction on my camera so the trunk wasnt a big black blob. It has put on a bit of new growth which is a great sign. Its potted in pumice, DE, and pine bark fines, with a layed of sphagnum I added on top as it was drying out too quickly. Is there any advice you have to give this the best possible chance at a full recovery?
 
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GGB

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The foliage was actually much greener, it just looks this way due to colour correction on my camera so the trunk wasnt a big black blob. It has put on a bit of new growth which is a great sign. Its potted in pumice, DE, and pine bark fines, with a layed of sphagnum I added on top as it was drying out too quickly. Is there any advice you have to give this the best possible chance at a full recovery?
At this point I'd say you don't need any advice from me. It's not a species I have worked with yet. I don't usually comment on species I don't know well. But the title of the thread got me and I was worried about the tree. Too much potential to ruin haha. But clearly it was just the color balance, and it seems like you are doing just fine. So i guess my advice is just go easy on 'er, this'll be good'n.

Also just noticed you addressed the camera thing already. Good god I'm off my game today. I'm just gonna get out of this thread and stick to what I know
 

Fabledable

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At this point I'd say you don't need any advice from me. It's not a species I have worked with yet. I don't usually comment on species I don't know well. But the title of the thread got me and I was worried about the tree. Too much potential to ruin haha. But clearly it was just the color balance, and it seems like you are doing just fine. So i guess my advice is just go easy on 'er, this'll be good'n.

Also just noticed you addressed the camera thing already. Good god I'm off my game today. I'm just gonna get out of this thread and stick to what I know

Haha I appreciate the honesty. Thanks anyway!
 
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Hi cool tree, It has potential. I would recommend to not reduce the tree until you are sure, and if you do reduce the height try the top as a jin before you remove it. I have learned that lesson the hard way. Sometimes these trees will keep a paler color when collected in the spring all the way until August. Rarely do I get much new growth on the older ones until July if collected in the spring.
 

Vance Wood

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This tree is not healthy enough to style by anybody, especially a beginner. However if you can bring the tree back to vigorous health the trunk is worth the effort to graft new growth on it in areas where there is none.
 

rockm

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The color of the foliage is not the real concern with the health of this tree. It is the sparseness of it overall. Unless the foliage has at least doubled all over since the photo was taken, I wouldn't be making any design plans for it, much less planning any work. A current pic without color correction would be more helpful...just sayin'
 

Fabledabel

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Hi cool tree, It has potential. I would recommend to not reduce the tree until you are sure, and if you do reduce the height try the top as a jin before you remove it. I have learned that lesson the hard way. Sometimes these trees will keep a paler color when collected in the spring all the way until August. Rarely do I get much new growth on the older ones until July if collected in the spring.

Great advice. Thanks Matt

This tree is not healthy enough to style by anybody, especially a beginner. However if you can bring the tree back to vigorous health the trunk is worth the effort to graft new growth on it in areas where there is none.

Absolutely. The plan was always to hold off styling till I get a boom in new foliage. Grafting is something I've been considering as well in the future. Anyone have experience as to what is graftable on a thuja?
 
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