Ligustrum ovalifolium styling help

[BigC]

I got a small Ligustrum ovalifolium today from the Garden Centre.
I want help on which way I should go with this please, Where to cut what to cut and what to save. maybe some wiring examples.
I'd like to practice on this tree but need some guidance. I won't be putting it in a bonsai pot yet but want to style it and place it in a larger pot for now.
Any help appreciated.

Regards
C

 

[ZephyrStar]

These are one of my favorite bonsai species and I have one in similar condition, so I'll follow and see what advice is given

 

[Zach Smith]

Chop to a pleasing, tapering trunk line, remove all of the branches, wait for it to push new shoots, wire it, then pinch and prune and unwire and rewire till you get a good shape. Should happen in six months or so. Like this.

 

[BigC]

Thanks, Zach Smith, this is massively helpful, initially, it looks brutal but makes a lot of sense.
Moving on from your set of progressional images,
Is this then, just a matter of "Clip n Grow" coupled with directional pruning and wiring for further ramification.
Again thanks for taking time out to reply, it's very much appreciated
Regards
C

 

[Zach Smith]

Thanks, Zach Smith, this is massively helpful, initially, it looks brutal but makes a lot of sense.
Moving on from your set of progressional images,
Is this then, just a matter of "Clip n Grow" coupled with directional pruning and wiring for further ramification.
Again thanks for taking time out to reply, it's very much appreciated
Regards
C

I start with wiring to get the basic branch structure established. I use shearing (it's also called hedging, you'll see one or more threads about that here) to build ramification followed by selective pruning to create the finer structure. It goes quickly with fast-growing species such as privet.

 

[BigC]

Well, Zach Smith, Upon following your example closely.
I've taken the plunge and made the chop. I sure hope this is going to work. Fingers crossed it will back bud and all will be fine in a few months.
That remains to be seen.
The trunk is not as wide as yours maybe it will thicken in time (within the much larger terracotta pot)
Drastic images of attempted murder below lol

 

[Zach Smith]

Good start. If it were my tree I'd chop it somewhat lower, but wait for buds and then you can re-chop. The goals in a trunk are taper and movement. You have a little in the lower portion, then a nice change of direction, and I'd be looking to re-chop that top section about two basal diameters up from the point where it changes direction. That's a good rule of thumb. But it actually works better if you wait for new buds, because you don't always get one exactly where you chop.

Oh, and seal those cuts.

 

[BigC]

Good start. If it were my tree I'd chop it somewhat lower, but wait for buds, and then you can re-chop. The goals in a trunk are taper and movement. You have a little in the lower portion, then a nice change of direction, and I'd be looking to re-chop that top section about two basal diameters up from the point where it changes direction. That's a good rule of thumb. But it actually works better if you wait for new buds, because you don't always get one exactly where you chop.

Oh, and seal those cuts.

Thanks, Zach, I hear what you are saying and will adhere closely to your methodology. I'll seal the cuts and wait for the new buds before I re-chop.
Yes I can see the necessity and options in the lower chop position from a better movement perspective
This is all a learning curve for me and I would have never attempted such a drastic tear-down if it wasn't for your expert guidance.
Looking forward to regrowth
I fully appreciate you taking time out to help me out on this subject
Regards
C

 

[BigC]

Impatience got the better of me and I have made that second chop now rather than later. I didn't like that double branch cut at the top.
(two basal widths above the last cut, it looks less but this is due to the angle of the photograph)
I have sealed all the cuts for now until some proper wound sealant arrives.
I can now leave well alone in the hope that I'll get a good leader to put a little more movement into the trunk.

Will the trunk base thicken in this set-up?



Regards
C

 

[Zach Smith]

You won't get much voluntary basal thickening in a pot of any size (or better put it will be a very slow and almost unnoticeable process. Especially when you're ready to design. Trunk thickening is mostly an in-ground thing. In a pot you can allow a sacrifice leader to grow out to thicken your whole tree, or a low sacrifice branch to thicken the base.

You need to get yourself a lot more trees. Privets are tough customers, but just about any tree can be loved to death. As a beginner, you'll want to do stuff to your trees every day. This one is all you've got, and you've worked it all you can for now but you'll be itching to do some more "bonsai-ing" on something today. You need more material, and soon.

Remember, when you trunk-chop any tree you usually won't know where a bud will activate (even if you can see nodes or dormant buds). Privet is a species with inconspicuous buds/nodes. So hopefully you'll get something very close to where you chopped at the top. As I mentioned above, it's good to leave this part a little bit long until you see where that bud will show up.

 

[BigC]

You won't get much voluntary basal thickening in a pot of any size (or better put it will be a very slow and almost unnoticeable process. Especially when you're ready to design. Trunk thickening is mostly an in-ground thing. In a pot you can allow a sacrifice leader to grow out to thicken your whole tree, or a low sacrifice branch to thicken the base.

You need to get yourself a lot more trees. Privets are tough customers, but just about any tree can be loved to death. As a beginner, you'll want to do stuff to your trees every day. This one is all you've got, and you've worked it all you can for now but you'll be itching to do some more "bonsai-ing" on something today. You need more material, and soon.

Remember, when you trunk-chop any tree you usually won't know where a bud will activate (even if you can see nodes or dormant buds). Privet is a species with inconspicuous buds/nodes. So hopefully you'll get something very close to where you chopped at the top. As I mentioned above, it's good to leave this part a little bit long until you see where that bud will show up.

Thanks, Zach,
Much appreciated for all your help.
I have about 5 other small subjects and hunting down a few more, none are bonsai in the strictest sense of the word but they allow me to practice. I will buy some proper pre-designed trees as and when my experience dictates..
For now, I'm just content on trying to gain knowledge
Hopefully, I'll get to join my local club once it's safe to do so
Thanks again
Regards
C