Literati Maple w/deadwood

MaxChavez

Sapling
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Hello,
I rescued this Japanese Mapke from Craigslist a few weeks ago. It was potted with a bunch of junk in poorly draining soil --> about 40 percent of the lower trunk died off. I think it has some great character with the dead wood.
This year, is obviously returning it to health and seeing it in full leaf, but I'd be happy to have some opinions in the meantime!
1. Deadwood- carve it out or harden it? It has such age/patina that I am a little worried about carving it and leaving machine marks, or making the injury look fresher than it currently does. If I harden it, any tips for hardening deadwood products for Japanese maples?
2. At some point, I'll shorten the first branch to the left. As for the top, leave the 2 branches right of the fork to mirror the angle of the lower branch? Or the right 2 branches and bring them over the center of the tree a bit more(also thinking about stability once in a shallow literati pot)

Any thoughts are welcome20230406_080119.jpg20230406_080126.jpg20230406_080132.jpg
 
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I think the deadwood looks good…l wouldn’t mess with it.
I wonder if you would grow it out a bit more and work on the roots as you go to get a better base?
 

MaxChavez

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I think the deadwood looks good…l wouldn’t mess with it.
I wonder if you would grow it out a bit more and work on the roots as you go to get a better base?
Thanks, I love the deadwood, as well. I'm also curious what will happen to the base as the roots regain health. I scored some spots and applied rooting hormone, my biggest concern is stability, but I also wouldn't mind a little thickening at the base.
 

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A good trick is to screw in a vertical post into your grow bow. That way you can secure it from the top.
I used one here at the back of this tree…sorry, it’s not the best photo..
 

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Taste

Mame
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While I’m not a big fan of the material here myself. After stumbling across this tree I think it could be neat. Albeit different species maybe a similiar styling could work
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R0b

Shohin
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I wouldn’t call it literati as this creates expectations based on the traditional model where you run into dogmas like not enough movement for a literati and maples don’t have deadwood.

If you like the tree as it is perfect. To maintain the deadwood it would need to be treated with wood hardener as it will deteriorate. Or accept that it rotting away and see how it develops. The canopy will have to be compact and close to the trunk otherwise it will be physically unbalanced. The deadwood rotting away might give an opportunity to create movement in the trunk.
 

MaxChavez

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I wouldn’t call it literati as this creates expectations based on the traditional model where you run into dogmas like not enough movement for a literati and maples don’t have deadwood.

If you like the tree as it is perfect. To maintain the deadwood it would need to be treated with wood hardener as it will deteriorate. Or accept that it rotting away and see how it develops. The canopy will have to be compact and close to the trunk otherwise it will be physically unbalanced. The deadwood rotting away might give an opportunity to create movement in the trunk.
I see your point, the labels don't really matter to me, and I do like the tree. For my personal eye, interest is more important than classic beauty. I mean, I'm only 5 miles from Dan Robinson, who definitely thinks maples do have deadwood ;)
It's certainly an interesting decision to preserve the deadwood or let nature continue.
I definitely plan to thin and cut back the foliage assuming everything bounces back this summer.
Thanks for your thoughts!
 
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MaxChavez

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Curious to gather thoughts on transporting this tree for a workshop? It had some damaged/delicate root structure at repotting. I'd love to take it, but I don't want it to damage new root growth. It will have been 4 months since repot, with 2 months of strong foliar growth(it abanondoned the first flush since it was emergency repotted after buds began to open)
What do you think? It's about a 45 min drive away to the workshop. Just be gentle? Or not worth it?
Thanks
20230622_091538.jpg
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
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Put some holes or screws or screw eyes in the corners of the box then tie from above the first branch back down to the anchors. Ties like that don't look real strong but they do stop a lot of trunk movement.
If you tie the right knots or use wire it is quick and easy to take off after you arrive at the workshop.
 
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