Looking for a Cascade of advice
- Thread starter Underdog
- Start date
Crizzi Questions
Sapling
I wish I had friends like that! I’ve been scrounging around for nursery stock and bought a few trees now but I still don’t even have one as nice as this to start work on!
Some of the recent conversation in other threads have me reluctant to post questions about my junk but, going to anyway.
I'd like to hear what you would do from here. I have two cascading branches. The longest follows the trunk line best. When wiring I cracked it but it seems to have recovered. The second is more interesting to me splitting into 3.
I also left a lot on top. Remove?
I'd like to hear what you would do from here. I have two cascading branches. The longest follows the trunk line best. When wiring I cracked it but it seems to have recovered. The second is more interesting to me splitting into 3.
I also left a lot on top. Remove?
Last edited:
Japonicus
Masterpiece
Hi Underdog. Nice of him to leave you the procumbens, it has a nice start for your waterfall area.
2nd pic post 47 your last post, I like the right cascade. The left and right one to me resemble the Incredible Hulk
flexing his chest and arms down towards his legs which sort of distracts from the gracefulness of the right cascade.
Honestly from your pictures that post, I can't tell if you've removed one of the cascades or not for certain.
It appears you removed the longest flowing one that split into 3, and either really is fine to remove.
The splits I would work back to just pads myself and keep energy flowing into both apexes.
NO, keep all the upper foliage you have currently, but keep both apexes strong not letting one dominate more than a couple years at most...
...it makes for an interesting tree. A bit of majesty to come so to say several years down the road.
I have a weeping Crabapple tree to plant by the house. Malus 'Louisa' Crabapple it is.
Not sure about the little apples they sink, or at least eventually they do.
Laceleaf maple of the green variety, Viridis, is just as awesome in the Fall as any.
Said to handle full Sun, but don't spend a huge wad on an old specimen that's used to shade
like I did this Spring. Grafted is fine, and being containerized lets you move it about and wire it
unimpeded by the landscape. You could even graft a branch of it sloping downwards
https://www.fast-growing-trees.com/Virdis-Weeping-Japanese-Maple.htm
My local nursery had these 3-4' for $100 but not filled out at all.
2nd pic post 47 your last post, I like the right cascade. The left and right one to me resemble the Incredible Hulk
flexing his chest and arms down towards his legs which sort of distracts from the gracefulness of the right cascade.
Honestly from your pictures that post, I can't tell if you've removed one of the cascades or not for certain.
It appears you removed the longest flowing one that split into 3, and either really is fine to remove.
The splits I would work back to just pads myself and keep energy flowing into both apexes.
NO, keep all the upper foliage you have currently, but keep both apexes strong not letting one dominate more than a couple years at most...
...it makes for an interesting tree. A bit of majesty to come so to say several years down the road.
I have a weeping Crabapple tree to plant by the house. Malus 'Louisa' Crabapple it is.
Not sure about the little apples they sink, or at least eventually they do.
Laceleaf maple of the green variety, Viridis, is just as awesome in the Fall as any.
Said to handle full Sun, but don't spend a huge wad on an old specimen that's used to shade
like I did this Spring. Grafted is fine, and being containerized lets you move it about and wire it
unimpeded by the landscape. You could even graft a branch of it sloping downwards
https://www.fast-growing-trees.com/Virdis-Weeping-Japanese-Maple.htm
My local nursery had these 3-4' for $100 but not filled out at all.
Thank you Japonicus for your thoughtful reply. Your's looks very nice.
It's seems very healthy and fast growing. I'm unsure how much more abuse it can stand this year and when but have to believe it can handle one more branch removal. I'm thinking cutting back only to where there are 2 pads and the wire begins on the left one for now. I can always cut back further down the road.
Thank you for your time! It is much appreciated.
Mark
I've not yet removed either of the 2 cascading branches. I agree one has to go and the one splitting into 3 is most interesting even if the other follows the trunk line and is a bit longer. It's seems to be growing very well in spite of all the work done this year.
I only have the one apex which is wired upright shown best in pic 3. Unless you are counting the pad I left on the removed branch to the left of it. I like the idea of keeping the tops. Working the splits into just pads I've not considered. I could see doing that to 2 of them but I "think" I'd like to let it get longer especially since it's not quite as long as the one we are talking of removing which is below the pot's bottom.
It's seems very healthy and fast growing. I'm unsure how much more abuse it can stand this year and when but have to believe it can handle one more branch removal. I'm thinking cutting back only to where there are 2 pads and the wire begins on the left one for now. I can always cut back further down the road.
Thank you for your time! It is much appreciated.
Mark
Japonicus
Masterpiece
@Underdog Hi Mark! Thanks for the reply and kind words.
I made a cedar grow box for it but the winds could topple it. Wood=light weight.
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/cascade-wooden-grow-pot-for-training.32326/
I'm counting the "tail" of the cascade as an apex.
For a waterfall area you've a nice strong cascade that should be left to grow grow grow.
Eventually you'll be working that cascade into an apex. Cascades are a bit more difficult for me to overwinter
when healing into the ground, but this past Winter I just huddled everything under my sunroom on the N side
of the house (protected side), and mulched around each pot, and that made overwintering my cascade so much easier
So, on the one more removal, considering now that you've removed a lot already (I'm slow)
maybe next June/July would be a more intelligent time to do so. Even then, I wouldn't remove
the entire cascading branch...yet. A jin of that branch might be an interesting feature, but it does
create a "bar" branch ( + ) so the lowest portion, of the upper foliage needs to grow very strong just above
where the branch will be removed, to fill in and bring a branch, back close to the area. (Does that make sense?)
The longer the branch grows, the bigger the jin will be when done of course.
With the freedom your roots have, this will work well. A rock star debut
I made a cedar grow box for it but the winds could topple it. Wood=light weight.
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/cascade-wooden-grow-pot-for-training.32326/
I'm counting the "tail" of the cascade as an apex.
For a waterfall area you've a nice strong cascade that should be left to grow grow grow.
Eventually you'll be working that cascade into an apex. Cascades are a bit more difficult for me to overwinter
when healing into the ground, but this past Winter I just huddled everything under my sunroom on the N side
of the house (protected side), and mulched around each pot, and that made overwintering my cascade so much easier
So, on the one more removal, considering now that you've removed a lot already (I'm slow)
maybe next June/July would be a more intelligent time to do so. Even then, I wouldn't remove
the entire cascading branch...yet. A jin of that branch might be an interesting feature, but it does
create a "bar" branch ( + ) so the lowest portion, of the upper foliage needs to grow very strong just above
where the branch will be removed, to fill in and bring a branch, back close to the area. (Does that make sense?)
The longer the branch grows, the bigger the jin will be when done of course.
With the freedom your roots have, this will work well. A rock star debut
Melospiza
Shohin
Your Wisteria sure looks like a Trumpetvine (Campsis radicans) from over here. Wisteria don't have opposite leaves (they have alternate arrangement) and they have smooth, not shaggy bark. Still, a beautiful species, and native to boot! Another clue is the cluster of roots a few inches above the lip of the pot. Those are holdfasts, used to cling to a surface. Wisteria does not have these, and hangs on by twining around poles etc.
Dang,
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/wisteria.33903/
you are right. I had noticed the leaves are serated while my store bought wisteria has smooth leaves. I hadn't noticed the bark difference now quite obvious. It's growing roots at the end of the vines into the pond. posted here
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/wisteria.33903/
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