Mancozeb only for tip blight on shimpaku?

[Hartinez]

I’ve got this shimpaku that has struggled all year. I fear my root work in spring may have set it back. Either way, it appears like it’s got Top Blight. First off, am I right to assume that is the case? Second, I’ve read the best treatment for this on junipers is mancozeb or a fungicide with similar active ingredients. Problem is, none of my local garden stores sell mancozeb or related products and when I try to order it, I’m told that it can not ship to my state. Lastly, is it too late to do a treatment now in preparation for spring?

Here’s the juniper in question and it’s poor little tips. It is however sending growth at the base of many affected areas.

 

[Hartinez]

Bump

 

[armetisius]

Have you tried going around the locals and ordering thru a mail-order farm supply?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I found Hummert to be pretty good. They might ship when others will not. And they have a full line of fungicides, read through the list see what else is listed and if any of the other labels list Juniper tip blight. I suggest looking at Cleary's 3336 or its Bonide brand generic equivalent. Read to see if juniper blight is listed.

The most common broad spectrum fungicides being used these days are Mancozeb, Daconil and Cleary's 3336. But make sure juniper blights are listed on the label. Hummerts posts the entire label on line, just look for it.

Chemicals | Hummert International

www.hummert.com

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

First off, am I right to assume that is the case?

Yes. The typical spots on the scales are there, so it seems. So it's blight.
However, if you keep junipers on the very dry side or ruin the root system, blight can be a result of natural death and not a disease by itself. In the sense that it happens to grow on dead juniper foliage and doesn't attack living tissue.
I never had to treat for it more than once, because it stopped when the roots restored or when watering was resumed.

 

[bwaynef]

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/junipertipblight.pdf <-- This lists the three primary actors in what we refer to as Juniper Tip Blight. See below some alternatives to Mancozeb that list these fungi among those that it treats.

$grep -i 'phomopsis\|sclerophoma\|kabatina' *.txt

bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt: phomopsis
captan.txt: phomopsis Cane And Leaf Spot
clearys3336.txt:Kabatina (Twig Blights, Cankers, And Diebacks)
clearys3336.txt: phomopsis (Twig Blights, Cankers, And Diebacks)
copper.txt: phomopsis Leaf Blight
infusegranular.txt:Kabatina (Twig Blights, Cankers, And Diebacks)
infusegranular.txt: phomopsis (Twig Blights, Cankers, And Diebacks)
infuseliquid.txt: phomopsis Blight (Phomopsis Juniperovora)
mancozeb.txt: phomopsis
phyton27.txt: phomopsis
sphyton35.txt: phomopsis
potassium-bicarb.txt: phomopsis Blight
propiconazole.txt: phomopsis Blight (Phomopsis Juniperovora)
serenade.txt: phomopsis
thiomyl.txt:Kabatina (Twig Blights, Cankers, And Diebacks)
thiomyl.txt: phomopsis (Twig Blights, Cankers, And Diebacks)

(Interesting that there weren't any hits for "sclerophoma" among the fungicides I've catalogued.)

 

[Hartinez]

Yes. The typical spots on the scales are there, so it seems. So it's blight.
However, if you keep junipers on the very dry side or ruin the root system, blight can be a result of natural death and not a disease by itself. In the sense that it happens to grow on dead juniper foliage and doesn't attack living tissue.
I never had to treat for it more than once, because it stopped when the roots restored or when watering was resumed.

Hmmmm. I don’t tend to keep any of my trees on the dry side. We have such a dry Climate here with an extremely low humidity, and pores with such little rain we got here, that multiple waterings a day are must. As you’ve seen though, multiple moves and water sources may have contributed. If it was dying, it would be the slowest death I’ve seen to date on any juniper I’ve owned. Plus, there is lots of new growth in the crotch’s on each branch. I’ve treated with daconil multiple times this year, as daconils website says it treats blight. But, doesn’t appear to have worked. I’ve seen BVF say mancozeb is best, but sourcing the material has been difficult.

 

[Flowerhouse]

Buisnesses are restricted from shipping mancozeb to you, but those restrictions don't apply to individuals. If you decide you've got to have mancozeb then you need a friend in a state where it's permitted.

 

[chicago1980]

I ordered on line from Amazon today.

 

[Hartinez]

I ordered on line from Amazon today.

Must be an issue my state has then. I tried amazon multiple times. Every time I try it asks for my zip code then has a message saying the product can’t be shipped to my location.

 

[mrcasey]

If you can't get mancozeb, you might try copper.

 

[KillerButts]

Hmmmm. I don’t tend to keep any of my trees on the dry side. We have such a dry Climate here with an extremely low humidity, and pores with such little rain we got here, that multiple waterings a day are must. As you’ve seen though, multiple moves and water sources may have contributed. If it was dying, it would be the slowest death I’ve seen to date on any juniper I’ve owned. Plus, there is lots of new growth in the crotch’s on each branch. I’ve treated with daconil multiple times this year, as daconils website says it treats blight. But, doesn’t appear to have worked. I’ve seen BVF say mancozeb is best, but sourcing the material has been difficult.

Maybe see about having a local glass blower make you a decorative vented cloche.