Maple newbie

jade

Seedling
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Location
MONTEREY BAY CA
USDA Zone
9B
Hello.

Im very new to maples and Bonsai in general. I just up-potted these nursery maples ( Amur(1), & Trident (2)) into larger containers without disturbing the rootball too much in hopes avoid any shock, they were just beginning to get root bound w/ trunks around 1".

I thought one had interesting movement and the other some base taper and neat bark starting.

I would like these to look stout and bushy rather then tall and lengthy as the end result. Im not set on having the thickest trunks in the world here, im ready to start the branching.

Would it be appropriate to trim back the 2 tall branches on the amur and lower some of the taller branches on the trident to start to create a more ramified canopy? If so, and where and when would you recommend to cut? Also, If I was inclined, when is the appropriate time to start air layering the 2 tops off the amur?

They just began leafing out and im in 9b.

Thanks for reading and hope your willing to share your thoughts


J

20210223_173957.jpg20210223_173904.jpg
 
Last edited:

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
Messages
11,337
Reaction score
23,254
Location
on the IL-WI border, a mile from ''da Lake''
USDA Zone
5b
Myself I would let these grow out without pruning for a couple years. Keep in mind once you start pruning the trunk, the increase in diameter will slow dramatically. I would let these grow a couple years just to increase the caliper of the trunk.

However, if you are happy with the diameter of the trunks. You can prune. I would decide what final height I would like for the "finished tree". Then cut the trunks back to 1/3 the desired final height. For example, if you want finished trees at 18 inches tall cut down to 6 inches. If you want a final height of 12 inches cut down to 4 inches tall.

Generalized plan for a tree, first third of height is trunk. Second third is the primary branching, final third of height is the twigs and leaves.

The generalized plan is a guide, not a hard and fast rule. The proportions work reasonably well.

If you wait to prune until roughly the summer solstice, the new growth will have shorter internodes, more compact.
 

MrWunderful

Omono
Messages
1,457
Reaction score
1,952
Location
SF Bay area
USDA Zone
10b
In the future, dont repot unless you are going to edit the roots. They are most likely poor for the design of the tree, and will have to be cut back next year.

And stout and bushy trees are built by growing for a few years/chopping growing a few years/ chopping etc. but you always want to set up the roots proper first.
 

jade

Seedling
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Location
MONTEREY BAY CA
USDA Zone
9B
Being newer to bonsai, I want to start the branches so I have something to work with and watch as some other bigger projects are in the works. Even though they have such thin trunks and will look young for a very long time, at least they have a little girth and some nice bark forming. I want to learn how to ramify the branches so I know how to do it for some larger trees I spent more on when time comes. I bought multiple sizes and varieties of maples to run some experiments on. Ill post some of those larger maples as well in due time. Thanks for the 1/3 ratio idea it helps to give a good perspective. My plan was to wait for summer to do any pruning. I didn't know it also encouraged shorter internodes if pruned in this time, thanks again for the great tip.

The reason I didn't work the roots was because when I bought these from a bonsai nursery they were already starting to leaf out but root bound in the pots. I just up potted them into slightly larger containers withought disturbing the ball because I thought it might be too late into leafing to disturb the roots, but will definatly work on them on the Re pot. I wanted to give them a little more space for the season
Thanks all for your thoughts
J
 
Top Bottom