Mites

[August44]

Yes I know this is an old, worn out topic, but I have a problem that needs some quick answers pls. I have mites and have had since day 1. Every year I fight them in my landscape plantings/flowers and now my bonsai maples. I buy lady bugs that they only sell in May/June around here only to see them vanish because we don't get mites until late July/August. Last year I got a product called "Talstar Professional", an FMC product and applied that @ 1 oz per gallon, which is their recommended dosage for mites. I have been spraying that for a month or more, assuming it was working. Then it finally dawned on me that it might not be working, so sprayed (under, over, and all around) some trees at noon and then checked them at 5 when I came home. There was still the same amount of mites running around as at the noon look...no difference at all! I called the Co. and they are supposed to get back with me. Right now, I would like to spray them with something/anything that will kill them, something I can find down at Ace Hardware like Sevin, Malathion, or something. Could I get suggestions pls. Thanks for help!

 

[sorce]

Truth truth....don't kill the red predator mites and you will see a reduction in pest ones.

Mites are merely a sign of weak trees.

This can be remedied with nothing more than a bit more health.

How to obtain that health?

Follow Walter. Don't follow "bonsai books".

Japan is a small island. The world is huge in Comparison.

Sorce

 

[Dav4]

Mites are absolutely not a sign of a weak tree... but they can severely weaken a tree when left untreated. I've learned the hard way that my current location has greatly increased the mite exposure to my trees, and subsequently, my need to treat/spray on a regular basis, and to alternate between miticides every 2 weeks. My junipers have had issues periodically in my yard for the last decade, but the mites are now attacking my JBPs, so, on my teacher's advise, I'll be adding malathion to the mix. Good luck, but if you're in the right (or wrong location), it becomes a maintenance issue.

 

[Paradox]

Mites are absolutely not a sign of a weak tree... but they can severely weaken a tree when left untreated. I've learned the hard way that my current location has greatly increased the mite exposure to my trees, and subsequently, my need to treat/spray on a regular basis, and to alternate between miticides every 2 weeks. My junipers have had issues periodically in my yard for the last decade, but the mites are now attacking my JBPs, so, on my teacher's advise, I'll be adding malathion to the mix. Good luck, but if you're in the right (or wrong location), it becomes a maintenance issue.

Dave, are you still using the Sultan product?

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Mites are absolutely not a sign of a weak tree.

Agreed. If I was a mite, I'd go with the five star, twelve course meal instead of going dumpster diving.
Most insects work like that.

Neemoil as regular treatment, if things get out of control, I hose the plants down, let them dry and treat them with a non-pyrethroid insecticide. Oil based if possible.
Headlice shampoos and stuff like Head & Shoulders against dandruff also contain miticides, sometimes the same stuff we use on our plants that come with a 6 page warning booklet.
A good frost also helps a great deal. We only get spider mite issues indoors when overwintering, with one exception: australian finger lime. They get them outdoors too, for some reason.

 

[leatherback]

We only get spider mite issues indoors when overwintering, with one exception: australian finger lime. They get them outdoors too, for some reason.

my greenhouse loves them too. And my juniper used to get them.

I started washing down my trees in hot weather. A nice shower twice a day. Seems to keep the mites at bay. But.. I am in a moderate climate region.

 

[Japonicus]

Malathion

I'll be adding malathion to the mix

Malathion
There Peter you've heard it 3 times in just a few posts.

Washing down the trees is good practice for minor infestations, but you've been dealing with this many years.
They wash away and still alive still reproducing, they'll be back.

I rotate Malathion with Insecticidal soap (safe soap) which actually works, it is not soap, but is "environmentally safe"
compared to other products like Sevin and malathion.

Sevin dust is not to be applied/used within 1 mile, of a honey bees nest. The bees carry the dust back to the hive
it kills the queen, the bees die off. Not sure about liquid Sevin, but it does dry leaving a white residue, which IO guess could
do the same damage, I really don't know. The rotation I use works like a charm, but I'm also applying an granular insecticide to my lawn
and around the foundation. Treat your landscape a couple times a year including prone ornamental trees. So far I'm applying this rotation
to JM, hemlock, all pines (nigra, mugo, JWP, JBP), all junipers. Test on annual flowers and other soft vegetation 1st.
I've been using this rotation for years, and it works. Typically a month of weekly applications gets you controlled, then once monthly
keeps you in the green zone.

 

[coh]

Have never had to resort to chemicals to control mites. I've always managed them simply with water (which I suppose is a chemical, to be technical). Affected plants get sprayed thoroughly at least once a day, hard stream of water, from all directions to get at all surfaces. I don't spray late in the day, usually, though some species like redwoods don't mind.

The problem with ladybugs is it's mainly the larval stage that eats mites and other bugs. The adults aren't as effective. So if the adults don't hang around and lay eggs, you're pretty much throwing money away.

 

[Dav4]

Dave, are you still using the Sultan product?

I am... and unfortunately, I've had multiple mite outbreaks despite applying it several times this year. For good or for bad, my yard is essentially carved out of the woods and there are loads of mites in the landscape that I can't do anything about. My mitigation plan includes spraying with multiple products every few weeks throughout the year... I found mites on my JBPs last January... and I'm going to have to remove all of the landscaping within a 10 yard radius of my benches... fingers crossed this does the trick.

 

[Dav4]

Have never had to resort to chemicals to control mites. I've always managed them simply with water (which I suppose is a chemical, to be technical). Affected plants get sprayed thoroughly at least once a day, hard stream of water, from all directions to get at all surfaces. I don't spray late in the day, usually, though some species like redwoods don't mind.

The problem with ladybugs is it's mainly the larval stage that eats mites and other bugs. The adults aren't as effective. So if the adults don't hang around and lay eggs, you're pretty much throwing money away.

I never had mite issues until I moved to GA. Between that and climate change, they have turned into a major pest and maintenance issue for me in the last few years. I'm hoping that reducing the landscape material that can harbor the mites will reduce the exposure to my potted trees, but there is no way at this time that I can manage my large collection with just water, or even the occasional miticide spray.

 

[coh]

I never had mite issues until I moved to GA. Between that and climate change, they have turned into a major pest and maintenance issue for me in the last few years. I'm hoping that reducing the landscape material that can harbor the mites will reduce the exposure to my potted trees, but there is no way at this time that I can manage my large collection with just water, or even the occasional miticide spray.

Maybe not, but it's a simple first thing to try and even if you can't completely manage the mite problem, it will help. Spray the landscape plants around the trees as well.

Mites are a tough problem - everything I've read indicates they quickly build up resistance to many chemicals. Another problem, the commonly used chemical imidacloprid (in some Bayer products) can increase the reproduction rate of mites. I don't know if you or the OP are using that on your bonsai.

Probably the best approach is to use regular water sprays along with a rotation of chemicals. And maybe move back to Boston!

 

[Japonicus]

I'm hoping that reducing the landscape material that can harbor the mites will reduce the exposure to my potted trees,

Treat your landscape a couple times a year including prone ornamental trees.

I hate using chemicals. I glove up, safety glasses, jeans and long sleeve button up shirt,
but you gotta treat those ornamentals and the lawn too.
I think a lot of folks get a good result then become complacent foregoing subsequent applications.
A false sense of security. Nearly lost my Picea abies this year to mites. Paper yielded an explosion of them.
I jetted it off at the edge of my lawn, then sprayed everything with Malathion. Just can't stop there and be good ya know?

When I water and moths fly out of the foliage, or I see wasps visiting my conifers more often, I know it's time to glove up.
I've done the paper test twice this year. The insects are a tell tail sign, and usually omit the paper test and go with insect instinct.
Don't stop during Winter. When you've began to go into Winter mode, and again before Spring as temps moderate, I will use the neem oil.

This "old worn out topic" will always get the same response from me, because I get it. It can be serious for some more than others.
Just look to the Alberta Spruce as a canary. That's mean...sorry. They're mite magnets.

 

[coh]

Just look to the Alberta Spruce as a canary. That's mean...sorry. They're mite magnets.

It's actually not a bad idea to keep a couple of "canary" trees around. Around here it seems junipers are most likely to get affected (at least for me, though I haven't had any issues for a few years now).

 

[bwaynef]

Its an expensive proposition, but for those of you with mites in your landscape, or in the forest you call home, I wonder how long it'd take to get them under control with predatory mites. Maybe hit all your trees with one of the hi-test miticides (Sultan, Forbid, and Avid ...I think those are the names (I bought them in a repackaged size that was very small and much more affordable. One treatment of one of them (not sure which) and I haven't had anymore issues.) ), then place the order for predatory mites. By the time they arrive hopefully you've knocked down the problem on your trees and you can treat your landscape with predatory mites to keep things from getting out of hand on your trees.

 

[Dav4]

Maybe not, but it's a simple first thing to try and even if you can't completely manage the mite problem, it will help. Spray the landscape plants around the trees as well.

Mites are a tough problem - everything I've read indicates they quickly build up resistance to many chemicals. Another problem, the commonly used chemical imidacloprid (in some Bayer products) can increase the reproduction rate of mites. I don't know if you or the OP are using that on your bonsai.

Probably the best approach is to use regular water sprays along with a rotation of chemicals. And maybe move back to Boston!

I hate using chemicals. I glove up, safety glasses, jeans and long sleeve button up shirt,
but you gotta treat those ornamentals and the lawn too.
I think a lot of folks get a good result then become complacent foregoing subsequent applications.
A false sense of security. Nearly lost my Picea abies this year to mites. Paper yielded an explosion of them.
I jetted it off at the edge of my lawn, then sprayed everything with Malathion. Just can't stop there and be good ya know?

When I water and moths fly out of the foliage, or I see wasps visiting my conifers more often, I know it's time to glove up.
I've done the paper test twice this year. The insects are a tell tail sign, and usually omit the paper test and go with insect instinct.
Don't stop during Winter. When you've began to go into Winter mode, and again before Spring as temps moderate, I will use the neem oil.

This "old worn out topic" will always get the same response from me, because I get it. It can be serious for some more than others.
Just look to the Alberta Spruce as a canary. That's mean...sorry. They're mite magnets.

My heavily wooded yard's is almost 2 acres and covered up in eastern red cedar, virginia and ponderosa pine intermixed with the native hardwoods, along with numerous ornamental junipers and other conifers.... there's no way I could treat that... and I have a large bonsai collection... it takes me 15-20 minutes to water the soil of my trees adequately, never mind the canopies. I've sprayed the canopies of affected junipers with water before in an attempt to rid the tree of mites... it didn't fix the mite problem... and that's also when I became familiar with needle cast and juniper tip blight, 2 moisture loving fungal pests I have dealt with yearly since making the move south. Anyway, I now try not to wet the canopies if I can due to the year round fungal threat. I haven't used imidacloprid for at least 4-5 years exactly because of the issue you mention. Fwiw, I've been hearing from multiple pros for almost a decade that mites need to be treated chronically and with multiple chemicals to prevent the development of resistance... I resisted that as long as I could but I'm at my wit's end. With that being said, the plan going forward is to reduce the landscape trees within a certain radius of my trees... there will be more ventilation and the mites will have to travel further to reach my trees. That, coupled with routine spraying, and I'll hopefully kick the mite's tiny little asses.

 

[hinmo24t]

Hydrogen peroxide 3% 50/50 w water i just did my beech today. I used 1/3gallon overall

 

[Dav4]

Hydrogen peroxide 3% 50/50 w water i just did my beech today. I used 1/3gallon overall

Godspeed... the mites down here mix their gin with 3% peroxide... it's fizzy!!

 

[hinmo24t]

Godspeed... the mites down here mix their gin with 3% peroxide... it's fizzy!!

I checked after work and no sign of insect life. It worked for aphids and ant disbursement too recently. Sounds like rice crispies and milk.

 

[JesusFreak]

What’s a sign of mite infestation? What do they look like? I hope I don’t have them. I live I. South Ga so I’m sure I do.

 

[hinmo24t]

What’s a sign of mite infestation? What do they look like? I hope I don’t have them. I live I. South Ga so I’m sure I do.

I saw small light colored bugs that were fast moving for their size among the soil. And the amount I saw I secluded the tree and did what i mentioned. This is after I noticed all of a sudden the foliage looking brown.