Here it is Wayne the article by Colin Lewis I promised.
Making sharp bends in trunks and heavy branches
This is without doubt the scariest technique I have ever used! You'd think the tree would surely die after this onslaught, but I can safely say that I have used this technique many times and I have never lost a tree yet as a result.
Best species are pines (not so much white pine), spruce, chamaecyparis, larch, ficus, bald cypress.... Not advisable on junipers because of their reluctance to heal. Deciduous species tend to be too brittle, although this has been successfully done (with difficulty) on hawthorn, trident maple and English elm.
Best time to do this is while the tree is vigorously growing and the cambium activity is at its maximum - spring to early summer... like NOW!
Decide where you want the bend, and cut a narrow wedge out of the trunk or branch with a very sharp, fine saw. Make the wedge just over half way through. You read it right - just over half way through! Keep the wedge fairly narrow - around thirty degrees. (I have cut much wider wedges, but the risk of damage increases dramatically, and not all species are flexible enough to permit that much damage.)
NB: Make the wedge symmetrical, so both sides are the same angle and size, otherwise they will not meet perfectly when the gap is closed.
See first picture
Use guy wires to bend the trunk or branch until the two two sides of the wedge cut are pressed tightly together - very tightly. Important: plan carefully the angles and anchoring points of the guy wires so the angle of tension is directly perpendicular to the wedge, otherwise it will no close accurately.
Cover the cut with a sliver of cut paste (not the stuff in a tube - that'll stain the bark) and likewise any splits that have appeared on the outside of the bend, where the tissues have been stretched.
The grafting process will begin almost immediately, and should be completed by the end of the season. However, avoid the temptation to "test" the graft!! Even if it has grafted, the tensions in the wood can be enough to rip it open again when the guys are released. Grit your teeth and wait one more season to be safe.
See picture 2
The scots pine illustrated had a further seven wedges cut on different sides of the trunk so it could be compressed into a shape like curly a pig's tail. Why? Well, it's now in the ground, and when the three-quarter-inch trunk has expanded to two inches, it's going to be a stunning little piece!
See picture 3
This is a great technique - have fun