Moving Roots

[berobinson82]

Howdy!

I realize that I've never seen a very detailed tutorial/progression on the following topic. Perchance a generous member of the nuthouse would be kind enough to share their experiences.

I've a shimp which has been kicking my creative butt. The trunk is split at an almost perfect 90 degree angle and bone straight at that.

After much debate and sketching, I believe my best option with this troubling material is to turn it on its side and make a compact semi cascade.

So then my question is this:

How does one encourage roots to develop on on side of the tree? I considered purchasing a crescent shape pot for it. Either way I'm not sure how to turn a plant on its side and develop the roots. Is that clear? Can anyone offer suggestion?

Please and thank you,
B

 

[0soyoung]

I've many times seen junipers being 're-oriented' be planted 'sideways' in a training pot. Half of the root ball then appears as a lump above the level of the pot lip. I presume that this root lump gets reduced by root pruning done over successive seasons, because these had a smooth contour from the trunk base in the end.

[edit]Here's an example of the end result and probably not all that different from the design you are trying to achieve.[/edit]

 

[berobinson82]

Yes. I've seen the same. The large mound on top. Was wondering if they needed to be covered with sphagnum or something. Or if it's better to style the tree on its side and then slowly reorient the tree more and more over the next 8-10 years during the usual repotting cycle. Certainly have never seen detailed instructions on this in any book/magazine I have at my disposal.

 

[0soyoung]

Conifers, especially small ones, don't have a one root to one branch connection like deciduous trees tend to have. So it ought to be fine to simply repot the tree into its final position in a training pot. But certainly one could hedge their bets by mounding the soil and dressing with sphagnum, then progressively prune the root lump each season along with adjusting the soil cover. I suppose that one could also expose the cambium on the new underside of the trunk and pack it with sphagnum hoping for rooting there (analogous to making a deciduous raft).

 

[berobinson82]

Conifers, especially small ones, don't have a one root to one branch connection like deciduous trees tend to have. So it ought to be fine to simply repot the tree into its final position in a training pot. But certainly one could hedge their bets by mounding the soil and dressing with sphagnum, then progressively prune the root lump each season along with adjusting the soil cover. I suppose that one could also expose the cambium on the new underside of the trunk and pack it with sphagnum hoping for rooting there (analogous to making a deciduous raft).

That's actually a really good idea to expose the trunk on the bottom. Good thinking. I hadn't considered it previously.

Alright then, Sounds like a long and arduous transition. Good thing this is a slow moving game. Thanks for the input Oso.

Cheers,
B

 

[jk_lewis]

After much debate and sketching, I believe my best option with this troubling material is to turn it on its side and make a compact semi cascade.

Surely there's another option (or two). The world doesn't need another ho hum juniper cascade.

Here, for instance, is a raft. Simply peel bark off through the cambium layer, apply rooting hormone nd plant along that bug straight branch. You still will have mounds of roots to get rid of over a few years' time, but it will be a MUCH more interesting tree, IMO. (I've sketched in a shallow pot, but you'll want this in a large pot for a few years, most likely.)

(Nice to see a sideways picture that is SUPPOSED to be sideways. Those I'll look at. )

 

[berobinson82]

Surely there's another option (or two). The world doesn't need another ho hum juniper cascade.

Here, for instance, is a raft. Simply peel bark off through the cambium layer, apply rooting hormone nd plant along that bug straight branch. You still will have mounds of roots to get rid of over a few years' time, but it will be a MUCH more interesting tree, IMO. (I've sketched in a shallow pot, but you'll want this in a large pot for a few years, most likely.)

(Nice to see a sideways picture that is SUPPOSED to be sideways. Those I'll look at. )

Hadn't considered this as an option. Lemme getta good look when I get home from the office.

 

[vaibatron]

Bernard! Where are you getting these shimps?? In va?

 

[edprocoat]

I have always laid them on their sides for a cascade after removing the soil and raking the roots down as much as I could. I still had a raised root ball but I would guesstimate it at least 50% smaller than if I would not have done that. The finer roots up top self prune from the air exposure and the larger ones get worked downward again next repot.

ed

 

[edprocoat]

I have always laid them on their sides for a cascade after removing the soil and raking the roots down as much as I could. I still had a raised root ball but I would guesstimate it at least 50% smaller than it would be if I did not do that. The finer roots up top self prune from the air exposure and the larger ones get worked downward again next repot.

ed

 

[berobinson82]

Just put some wire on it.

I was geared up to work on this tree when I first posted it. The conversation made me reconsider my plan. Since I haven't actually done anything on a tree for a while I decided to just put some wire on it. Treat it like the Joshua Roth New Talent Competition. And make the most out of what I had in front of me.

Figured I'd share:

 

[sorce]

Nice B.

The slight angle change took the 90 out of that 90 pretty well! Makes it more pleasing!

If you dont mind. I think bringin in the right side will strengthen your image.
A little more reduction cant hurt in keeping that trunk thinner too.

I really like the exposed trunk on the top left.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

Better with back and forth photos