Mugo - carsten, pumilio, fischleinboden

[Estonio]

I removed the old niddles 2 weeks ago and today I have reported it. I removed only 1/3 and mainly from the upper part with the idea to uncover a bit the possible nebari. I have been conservative and did not remove much soil or cut many roots.






A few minutes in water with aminoacidos and root developer



And ready

 

[Vance Wood]

You're not keeping this tree in side the house are you?

 

[Estonio]

Of course not. outdoor and in the shade until it recovers...

 

[Estonio]

After 1.5 months it is time to start receiving some sun.... In a couple of weeks I'll start fertilizing.. Let's see by October if it is strong so we can do some pruning..

 

[Estonio]

It's October and this is how it is. I think my biggest problem is that the green is too far from the trunk... What possible design I could try with this one?

 

[0soyoung]

I think your best hope is to get it growing vigorously, then partially prune back the season's new shoots in August. In addition to releasing some fascicular buds mugos will also pop buds on old wood (with no needles on it), but there is no predicting where they will be. But once you've got them, you'll have foliage closer to the trunk. It is safest to keep something like 3 to 5 rows of new fascicles when you prune, but it is possible to cut off all the season's growth.

 

[Vance Wood]

I think your best hope is to get it growing vigorously, then partially prune back the season's new shoots in August. In addition to releasing some fascicular buds mugos will also pop buds on old wood (with no needles on it), but there is no predicting where they will be. But once you've got them, you'll have foliage closer to the trunk. It is safest to keep something like 3 to 5 rows of new fascicles when you prune, but it is possible to cut off all the season's growth.

Essentially this is accurate. The lack of close growth can be resolved by the above process but it takes time and patience. Just remember you cannot cut back to a point with no growth. To get growth in to the interior of the tree the development of latent buds is necessary on bare wood, this is achievable only by cutting back already vigorous growth.

 

[Estonio]

Thank you @0soyoung and @Vance Wood for your answers. Do you think removing some branches at given time, could also help to provide more vigour to the remaining ones? Or on the contrary would weaken the tree in the short term? I was thinking specially about some higher branches closer to apex from points in the trunk where several branches commence.

By at given time I mean during winter when the tree is less active...

That would be all I would do, not even wiring. Do you think this approach is OK or I should leave the tree as it is and next action would be mekiri in August as @0soyoung commented?

Thanks

 

[Vance Wood]

Thank you @0soyoung and @Vance Wood for your answers. Do you think removing some branches at given time, could also help to provide more vigour to the remaining ones? Or on the contrary would weaken the tree in the short term? I was thinking specially about some higher branches closer to apex from points in the trunk where several branches commence.

By at given time I mean during winter when the tree is less active...

That would be all I would do, not even wiring. Do you think this approach is OK or I should leave the tree as it is and next action would be mekiri in August as @0soyoung commented?

Thanks

Could you describe to me what you understand the action of Mekiri to be? There is one thing I have grown to understand about Mugos is that the actions you do one JBP, JRP and JWP do not always translate favorably to Mugo Pines. So when you describe Mekiri I am not sure what you are talking about.

 

[Estonio]

Could you describe to me what you understand the action of Mekiri to be? There is one thing I have grown to understand about Mugos is that the actions you do one JBP, JRP and JWP do not always translate favorably to Mugo Pines. So when you describe Mekiri I am not sure what you are talking about.

Mekiri is to prune back the yearly growth of the candle when is developed., what at least for Scots pine or JBP use to happen in August aprox. What @0soyoung has commented above.

 

[Vance Wood]

Mekiri is to prune back the yearly growth of the candle when is developed., what at least for Scots pine or JBP use to happen in August aprox. What @0soyoung has commented above.

With a Mugo you need to do this as soon as you notice the buds starting to swell and get fat. The idea with a Mugo is to stimulate an abundance of new buds, not hope for a second flush of growth.

 

[Estonio]

With a Mugo you need to do this as soon as you notice the buds starting to swell and get fat. The idea with a Mugo is to stimulate an abundance of new buds, not hope for a second flush of growth.

Clear. What about the approach I indicated above. Not wiring not do anything except eliminating some branches during the winter?

 

[Vance Wood]

Clear. What about the approach I indicated above. Not wiring not do anything except eliminating some branches during the winter?

You can wire almost any time with a Mugo, the early Spring is the most risky. Winter will work fine with a Mugo in fact many masters think winter is the best time.

 

[Estonio]

You can wire almost any time with a Mugo, the early Spring is the most risky. Winter will work fine with a Mugo in fact many masters think winter is the best time.

Great! I will start removing some branches in winter and do some wiring earlier if I feel inspired .

Thanks

 

[Estonio]

So here we go. The work done today. Now fingers crossed for some buck budding. Lot of sun, water and fertilizing and waiting for next autumn to remove wire.

 

[Estonio]

Still alive, growing new needles and back budding





This is very long term project.. the end result will have little to do with how it looks like now and I guess will depend on how it will continue back budding...

 

[Vance Wood]

Most of the changes will depend on how well you pay attention to what the tree is doing and how your opinion may change.

 

[P. Witton]

Thank you for commenting. I put it in the shadow to interrupt the minimum the dormant period after reading this from @Vance Wood

"POSITION: Full Sun, although full sun is not necessary in the winter. Shelter from the wind is preferable and if your temperatures are warm definitely not full sun in winter. The goal in winter storage is to keep the tree frozen and dormant. Too intense of sun exposure can cause the sap to rise and when the temperatures fall further the water in the sap can expand and blow out the cambium layer"

I also have a terrace with south orientation amd sun all day long where I could as well place it.. I have temperatures from 0 to 13 Celsius (32 to 55 F) at least for the remaining of the month..