Mugo Pine from nursery stock in autumn (North West EU)

Storm87

Yamadori
Messages
74
Reaction score
41
Location
The Netherlands
USDA Zone
8a
As to the photos; personally I would like to see the tree photo in front of a dark featureless background where the only thing illuminated is the tree. As to suggestions. The first branch on the left is something I would consider removing. I also noticed that there seems to be a rather large root circling around the surface on the left side of the pot. This root should and could be removed as soon as possible.
Anyway, this weekend I'll try to make some better photo's with some white background.
 

Storm87

Yamadori
Messages
74
Reaction score
41
Location
The Netherlands
USDA Zone
8a
As to the photos; personally I would like to see the tree photo in front of a dark featureless background where the only thing illuminated is the tree. As to suggestions. The first branch on the left is something I would consider removing. I also noticed that there seems to be a rather large root circling around the surface on the left side of the pot. This root should and could be removed as soon as possible.

Apologies. Just couldn't find the time to take some more contrast pictures of the tree so to say. I hope a featureless white background will do. I all advice is welcome in order to bring this piece of material to a bonsai!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5069.JPG
    IMG_5069.JPG
    161.9 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_5070.JPG
    IMG_5070.JPG
    133 KB · Views: 36
  • IMG_5071.JPG
    IMG_5071.JPG
    132.7 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_5072.JPG
    IMG_5072.JPG
    127.5 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_5073.JPG
    IMG_5073.JPG
    161 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_5074.JPG
    IMG_5074.JPG
    174.9 KB · Views: 28

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
In the first tree photo in your sequence you have a bar branch, the first up from the base. These things may not make sense to you now but they will as time progresses and you gain experience. One of these branches should be eliminated at some point soon so, you should start thinking of the design without one of them.The logical choice to remove would be the left facing branch because it is on the inside of a curve. In other words you are going to be forced to make a directional commitment without one or the other. I also noticed that your wiring needs work to be more effective. There are a couple of free on line tutorial available from Craftsy that are priceless and should be viewed.

As to the circling root; it should be cut back to the trunk, if it is the only one.
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,545
Reaction score
15,222
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
I do find it difficult to design trees from 2D photos because depth and direction of branches is hard to determine accurately.
Given that, 2 options jump out at me immediately.

1: standard informal upright:
mugho 1.JPG
Retain branch A and work on back budding to build ramification. This could be a long low branch but I see a shorter more compact branch if possible.
Remove branch B - currently bar branch with A and growing from inside bend.
C becomes back branch - I hope that's where it points? but can still be flexible enough to wire toward the rear.
Reduce D and/or E to get back budding. Shorter, upper branches to right and rear?
F becomes the new apex. Wire more upright if needed. Reduce to stimulate buds and reduce length.
G: current apex is to the rear and thick. Remove.
Pros: Uses most of the current tree. Achievable in just a few years? Safe (most people's idea of bonsai) option
Cons: Safe option. Long lower branch may be reluctant to back bud.

2: cascade or semi cascade:
Inkedmugho2 _LI.jpg
Check roots before deciding if rotating the trunk this much is possible. Some left side roots may need to be removed or jinned to allow this much tilt.
Lower branch becomes the new cascade trunkiline. remove or jin current main trunk and current opposite branch.
Cascade trunk will need to be built with growth from the remaining branch. Check that there is enough existing/possible sub branching to make this feasible in reasonable timeframe.
Cascade option is a little more radical. Involves removing almost all the tree you have purchased but may produce something different from standard informal upright.
pros: Something other than standard informal upright. Depending on left side roots, uses initial trunk bend to good potential.
cons: I can't assess that branch to see how ell it will make a cascade trunk. Quite radical reduction of current material.

These options are just 2 of probably many that your pine could become. Good luck with searching for the bonsai in this tree.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,911
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
AAAAA---Yessssss the ubiquitous Cascade, almost always ends up in failure. The first step in making a bonsai from raw material is to remove everything that is not useful as a bonsai element. The usual reason for disaster in a bonsai of this nature is making an arbitrary decision as to the style you want to make the bonsai, then going full steam ahead with it off the cliff. You should approach a Mugo as it were a tree in nature on a mountain side. I don't know how to tell you how to see a tree but once you start chasing cookie cutter designs you are going to destroy the potential of the tree.

You have done enough with this tree for the year. If you don't stop messing with it you are going to kill it. If you must keep doing stuff get another tree. See what the tree tells you as it responds throughout the summer. You will know than how things are going.
 
Top Bottom