Multi Trunk JM 2019

ajm55555

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I couldn't leave this JM on the bench of the local Garden Center. Half price at Euro 25!
I'd like to ask your suggestions on where to cut the next Spring. I rough cut the longest branches, just to make it more compact but will not do any major cut now that Winter is at the door.
It will rest in peace and not being a cultivar, I trust it will make it through easily.
Thank you!
271774
 

leatherback

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Looking at the taper in the trunk, I would consider growing with just the lower left branch, so removing the big trunk on the right completely just above soil level.. However, that has some off root coming off it. How is the rest of the roots?

you will probably have to remove it over time to avoid killing off the right hand side of the plant. Consider layering the right-hand side for the start of a twin trunk.
 

bwaynef

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How large a tree do you envision?
 

sorce

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If you intend to use all 3 trunks, it's easiest to get them to the appropriate different thicknesses before cutting off anything.

I wouldn't cut it for a while.

Sorce
 

bwaynef

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If you intend to use all 3 trunks, it's easiest to get them to the appropriate different thicknesses before cutting off anything.

I wouldn't cut it for a while.

Sorce
Technically, the sooner you cut ...at different heights, the sooner the thicknesses begin to change.
 

ajm55555

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Looking at the taper in the trunk, I would consider growing with just the lower left branch, so removing the big trunk on the right completely just above soil level.. However, that has some off root coming off it. How is the rest of the roots?

you will probably have to remove it over time to avoid killing off the right hand side of the plant. Consider layering the right-hand side for the start of a twin trunk.
Thanks leatherback! I'd like to use all 3 trunks though...
 

ajm55555

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If you intend to use all 3 trunks, it's easiest to get them to the appropriate different thicknesses before cutting off anything.

I wouldn't cut it for a while.

Sorce
Thanks Sorce. Below a rough image what I have in mind just to give you an idea of the size of the bonsai. There is still not enough taper.
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sorce

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There is still not enough taper.

That's why I'd wait.
Seems an altogether girthing up could further provide a good spot to start a groundlayer as well. Redline, though a tilt left to use that baseline may work.Capture+_2019-11-21-10-55-16.png

Either way I'd be long gaming a plan to use these low nodes for taper chops.

The longer you keep your mind in "building phase" the better it'll end up.

Set a 30 year goal, and hope it's only 7!

You can't set a 7 year goal and it turns into 30, the tree is fucked up before then!

This is one of them good starts that gets me excited. I like how the 3 trunks are, and can go.

Sorce
 

Orion_metalhead

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I would cut back to where you show in your previous photo and focus on figuring out your roots on this tree at the moment. There looks to be weird stuff going on there.

I would do all this in spring and see what new backbudding comes this year. You can make a better decision the following year on where you can start to build good taper at.
 

0soyoung

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Nice vert @ajm5555! Having been though this a few times, I suggest at least one node lower. I hesitate going as far as @sorce is suggesting with his orange circles.

If you are wanting to make a multi-trunk design (and I think that could be rewarding) you need to make a thick dominant trunk and two thinner minor trunks. To do this, you let the one you want to be thicker run and limit the foliage on the other two for several years. Then, when you would 'chop' in the fashion of your vert (but lower) and grow the next part of all your trunks. It will take less than a decade (unless you are wanting a 3+inch main trunk) and will likely look pretty enough in leaf in the meantime.
 

bonsai45

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@ajm55555

here is a good visual guide w/ regards to the kind of cuts that might apply to your situation:

 

Shibui

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2nd for the ihaveaspaceship model. The 3 trunks should make a pleasing natural JM shape. Some work to get a good radial root system should give a classic JM nebari too. Any current inverse taper down there will grow out as the new roots develop.
 

ajm55555

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That's why I'd wait.
Seems an altogether girthing up could further provide a good spot to start a groundlayer as well. Redline, though a tilt left to use that baseline may work.View attachment 271788

Either way I'd be long gaming a plan to use these low nodes for taper chops.

The longer you keep your mind in "building phase" the better it'll end up.

Set a 30 year goal, and hope it's only 7!

You can't set a 7 year goal and it turns into 30, the tree is fucked up before then!

This is one of them good starts that gets me excited. I like how the 3 trunks are, and can go.

Sorce
Thanks for the tips Sorce. I agree on everything but the cuts ;-) They're a bit too low for my taste. I have time to think about it though.
 

ajm55555

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Nice vert @ajm5555! Having been though this a few times, I suggest at least one node lower. I hesitate going as far as @sorce is suggesting with his orange circles.

If you are wanting to make a multi-trunk design (and I think that could be rewarding) you need to make a thick dominant trunk and two thinner minor trunks. To do this, you let the one you want to be thicker run and limit the foliage on the other two for several years. Then, when you would 'chop' in the fashion of your vert (but lower) and grow the next part of all your trunks. It will take less than a decade (unless you are wanting a 3+inch main trunk) and will likely look pretty enough in leaf in the meantime.
I agree with you on the cuts. I'm not aiming for fat trunks but a more natural look. Thanks.
 

Woocash

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Sorry to highjack your thread @ajm55555 but i’ve got a similar situation and figure you might need the advice as well.

Is it worth repotting as well as chopping next year in to a better substrate or leaving in its current pot? I have read about only working either above or below the soil hard in one season and not both so what would be the best plan here please?
 

BobbyLane

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Sorry to highjack your thread @ajm55555 but i’ve got a similar situation and figure you might need the advice as well.

Is it worth repotting as well as chopping next year in to a better substrate or leaving in its current pot? I have read about only working either above or below the soil hard in one season and not both so what would be the best plan here please?


on healthy nursery trees, i do it all the time. i have numerous threads documenting exactly this.
conifers and collected trees use more caution. but ive done both on nursery conifers too

Just experiment mate;)
 
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