Mutant Needles: Is this Mugo Pine a Goner

[Mammal]

Newbie here.

I bought this mugo pine last summer.

Slip potted into a terra cotta pot last fall, filling in around the edges of the root ball with a mix of cactus soil and pumice. Otherwise, I haven't touched the roots.

This summer (mid-July), I did some pruning. I'd intended a light conservative prune just to remove some whorls that were causing ugly bulges, but I got carried away and ended up removing maybe 60–70% of the foliage.

August, I began to see some slight yellowing of some needle tips, but it didn't seem alarming. The tree was still overwhemingly green. Also, I was pleased to see some back buds forming. But then I was surprised when some of these new buds opened. The new clusters of needles were strange in appearance: wide, flat, and curly (circled red in the above pics).

September, many of the old needles have turned yellow or brown. A couple clusters of the new mutant needles have died. Other buds are still opening, all with those mutant needles. None of this seems good.

Is this tree in a death spiral?

If it survives the winter, would it be a terrible idea to repot it next summer?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Copied From @Shibui on the other thread to join OP post with other post

“The brown needles indicate dehydration. Dehydration can be caused by lack of water or, paradoxically, too much water. Too much water can cause root rot. Then the roots cannot take up water even though the soil is soggy. Looking at the soil I doubt this is the problem. More likely to be lack of water for several reasons.

Tree was slip potted. This means a compact root ball is now surrounded by very different media. It is difficult for water to cross the boundary. Most water runs through the new, well draining media and out of the pot and very little soaks through into the root bound old soil. Roots also have difficulty crossing from one soil type to another so they are likely still confined to the old root ball and cannot access the new soil and moisture. As a result the old root ball gets drier each day despite your best watering attempts. Compact root ball MUST be teased out a bit when slip potting to allow the new and old soils to mix a little and to encourage roots to go out into new soil.

You have not include a location so it is difficult to guess what season you are in or what conditions the tree has endured recently but mid July summer comment indicates northern hemisphere somewhere. Comments from other growers in North America indicate this summer has ben particularly hot and dry, making dehydration more likely.

Check soil moisture of the inner, old soil (down below surface level) If necessary soak the entire pot for a few hours to rehydrate the inner root ball. You may need to repeat every week or 2 until spring when you can rectify the problem.

Deformed needles happens occasionally. Subsequent growth usually returns to normal. It is unlikely to be fatal. Your location will give other members in your area vital info about what pests and diseases could be causing this.”

From @Deep Sea Diver

Added to this the tree was potted in terra cotta, which wicks moisture out of the root ball at a higher rate than most bonsai pots

That said Mugos can be pretty tough!

Good Luck with your tree

 

[Dav4]

I agree with everything above and will add that I think those "deformed needles" might actually be needle buds pushing needles. Those may be small branches in the future, so don't remove them now.

 

[TrevorLarsen]

I have had a mugo look similar and survive, so yours may survive too. I have had deformed needles when I put mine in the shade to recover after I worked on it. I thought it was because it was not getting enough light for the two weeks but maybe I was wrong. This is what mine looks like.

 

[Sagebrush]

View attachment 508124
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View attachment 508127

Newbie here.

I bought this mugo pine last summer.

Slip potted into a terra cotta pot last fall, filling in around the edges of the root ball with a mix of cactus soil and pumice. Otherwise, I haven't touched the roots.

This summer (mid-July), I did some pruning. I'd intended a light conservative prune just to remove some whorls that were causing ugly bulges, but I got carried away and ended up removing maybe 60–70% of the foliage.

August, I began to see some slight yellowing of some needle tips, but it didn't seem alarming. The tree was still overwhemingly green. Also, I was pleased to see some back buds forming. But then I was surprised when some of these new buds opened. The new clusters of needles were strange in appearance: wide, flat, and curly (circled red in the above pics).

September, many of the old needles have turned yellow or brown. A couple clusters of the new mutant needles have died. Other buds are still opening, all with those mutant needles. None of this seems good.

Is this tree in a death spiral?

If it survives the winter, would it be a terrible idea to repot it next summer?

Had a similar experience. Picked up this guy in early spring. Didn't repot but did probably over pruned it. Got the same deformed needles. Still had back budding. Then brutal summer set in. Lost it sadly.

 

[TrevorLarsen]

Mine is perfectly healthy now I should have mentioned that, so the deformed needles are not connected to the brown needles, since mine is nice and green except some deformed needles.

 

[Sagebrush]

Great. Glad it got over what was bothering it.

 

[Paradox]

The soil in the middle where the tree is looks very very dry in the picture.
Id say this is a dehydration issue. Considering the summer the mid west is having, Im not surprised
If the water isnt penetrating that root mass in the middle, try poking some holes in it with a screwdriver
Another thing you can do is submerge the pot in a bucket for 30 minutes.
it wont hurt the tree, and it should allow water to penetrate into the soil.

The buds still look good so there is hope.

If it survives the winter, a careful repotting could be done in the early spring.
I dont think you have much choice. Leaving it as is probably wont be good for it but what I would do is carefully remove soil along the outer edge of the root ball about an inch or so. Be very careful not to break any roots, keep the root ball moist by spraying it with water as you work the old soil out, DO NOT do the entire root mass yet. Once you have about an inch of soil removed all around the outer edge, repot it into a proper mix and leave it alone for 3 years. After 3 years you can repot in spring and remove a little more of the old soil again. Keep doing this over a few years until you get most of it out.
If there is some left on the inner area its fine. You want to see healthy roots growing out before you do more of it.

Dont do any more pruning until it starts to come back strong. It is going to need all it has to survive.
Be careful of the watering. Make sure you never let the soil completely dry out, Water it when it is almost dry.
Use a chopstick stuck in the soil as a moisture gauge. Take it out every day and look at it. Water when it is almost dry.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Those mutant needles are juvenile needles and they're a sign of stress.
When they occur on adult plants, usually a set of regular needles will grow from them.
Juvenile needles have a larger surface area and are made to combat a loss of photosynthetic capability.
They're also full of resin to prevent predation.

In mugo they seem to be fatter and wider than, for instance, jbp.

 

[Mammal]

Great. Glad it got over what was bothering it.

The soil in the middle where the tree is looks very very dry in the picture.
Id say this is a dehydration issue. Considering the summer the mid west is having, Im not surprised
If the water isnt penetrating that root mass in the middle, try poking some holes in it with a screwdriver
Another thing you can do is submerge the pot in a bucket for 30 minutes.
it wont hurt the tree, and it should allow water to penetrate into the soil.

The buds still look good so there is hope.

If it survives the winter, a careful repotting could be done in the early spring.
I dont think you have much choice. Leaving it as is probably wont be good for it but what I would do is carefully remove soil along the outer edge of the root ball about an inch or so. Be very careful not to break any roots, keep the root ball moist by spraying it with water as you work the old soil out, DO NOT do the entire root mass yet. Once you have about an inch of soil removed all around the outer edge, repot it into a proper mix and leave it alone for 3 years. After 3 years you can repot in spring and remove a little more of the old soil again. Keep doing this over a few years until you get most of it out.
If there is some left on the inner area its fine. You want to see healthy roots growing out before you do more of it.

Dont do any more pruning until it starts to come back strong. It is going to need all it has to survive.
Be careful of the watering. Make sure you never let the soil completely dry out, Water it when it is almost dry.
Use a chopstick stuck in the soil as a moisture gauge. Take it out every day and look at it. Water when it is almost dry.

This is great info. I will follow this plan. Hoping it survives.