My 1st Azalea is a semi-evergreen. Bronzed leaves, now what?

Japonicus

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btw both Mancozeb and Daconil are fungicides. So no go.
Well I only mentioned them because I thought the black dots were a disease.
If there's no reason to use Bonide systemic fungicide granules, I will hold off on that too.

I have Malathion and also have Neem oil mixed up and at the ready.
Will check labels for lace bug. I hit all my other trees with Malathion yesterday
as I saw some mites on one juniper, and possibly scale on a pot a couple days ago
shortly after getting a new Mugo. Insecticidal soap not for use on new transplants
is why I started with Malathion.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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No reason to use Bonide systemic insect control, or anything else if things don’t get out of hand. Usually the little buggers attack weak azaleas that have had poor fertilization, improper watering or planted in sunny locations which can weaken the plants too. Pretty certain you have this covered!

Malathion will work, but not as well for Lace Bugs. I wouldn’t use Neem on new transplants either. I’ve had it burn leaves. Dunno if it was my mistake or the product.

“DSD Editorial comment: Malathion is kind of an atomic bomb environmentally, where as Bonide is more like a laser guided missle. Both have their uses. Please read SDS of these chemicals. 😎

Best
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shinmai

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Whenever treating any infestation on a flowering tree, insect or fungal, with any kind of spray, one needs to be mindful of our little pollinator friends. Maiathion is to bees what Sarin is to people.
 

Japonicus

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Whenever treating any infestation on a flowering tree, insect or fungal, with any kind of spray, one needs to be mindful of our little pollinator friends. Maiathion is to bees what Sarin is to people.
Im in the know on that and do not use it during flower.
Sevin dust must not be used within 1 mile of a bee hive so i have none. I like bees too.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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…a correction to post 37/38.

Cutting off thick branches can be a bit more complex then indicated.

When cutting a thicker branch in one step timing is important.

A. In spring when the cambium moves one can cut flush, the edges made smooth with a razor/chisel and cut pasted

B. In mid to late fall the same cut should be made about an inch or a bit more from the trunk and cut pasted. This space will allow dissection of the branch end while keeping the sap flow off the trunk going. Then in spring a g Flush cut as per A above can be made.

When cutting a large branch a two stage process is best to avoid interrupting the trunks sap flow. Best timing Spring.

A. First year cut UP halfway from the Bottom of the branch parallel to and outside the trunk line. Cut the edges of the wound smooth on all sides with a razor and cover entire wound with cut paste.

B. 1-2 years later complete the cut, smooth and cut paste. (Avoid cutting a branch above another that was previously removed with out having living foliage between the old wound and the new wound. Thread graft if necessary before cutting.)

Sorry about any previous confusion.

Cheers
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Leo in N E Illinois

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No reason to use Bonide systemic insect control, or anything else if things don’t get out of hand. Usually the little buggers attack weak azaleas that have had poor fertilization, improper watering or planted in sunny locations which can weaken the plants too. Pretty certain you have this covered!

Malathion will work, but not as well for Lace Bugs. I wouldn’t use Neem on new transplants either. I’ve had it burn leaves. Dunno if it was my mistake or the product.

“DSD Editorial comment: Malathion is kind of an atomic bomb environmentally, where as Bonide is more like a laser guided missle. Both have their uses. Please read SDS of these chemicals. 😎

Best
DSD sends


A couple thoughts.

Malathion is an old line organophosphate pesticide, it used to be very effective, but particularly in California, insects have evolved resistance. It can still be effective if it has not been used for a few years in an area.

If you look at a pesticide label, you should see a mode of action group number. Pesticides with same mode of action numbers are based on same chemistry. Malathion is group 1b organophosphate, it disrupts insects nervous systems. Sevin is group 1a, carbamates, it acts on the same acetocholine receptors, I'm not clear if resistance to Malathion would also result in resistance to Sevin, but I think it's likely. So switching to Sevin when Malathion doesn't work just strengthens the resistance of your infestation, by ensuring insects with "super charged " acetocholine receptors systems survive. This wastes money, time and endangers your plant.

Neonicatinoids are group 4, this includes imidacloprid and it's many formulations from Bayer, Bonide, and others. Marathon is one more group 4 trade name.

Pyrethrins are in group 3, sodium channel modulators. Resistance to this group is high, but some of the synthetics are very effective even with genetic resistance to natural pyrethrins. Mavrik is one of the synthetics I have used, also Decathlon WP.

There's at least 21 mode of action groups, possibly more every year. You need to spend time reading.

1. Use each pesticide EXACTLY as labelled, including repeat application. For example if they say reapply every 14 days, then do so for at least one application AFTER you can no longer find the target insect or pest that triggered the decision to spray.

2. If the same pest reappears, seek out a pesticide from a different mode of action group, follow directions, treat with repeat applications until pest can not be found, then one final application.

3. The next time this same pest appears, try another mode of action pesticide. Ideally, you want to have 3 different mode of action pesticides available to cycle through in order to thwart development of resistance. If possible you don't use more than one or 2 in any 12 months period.

Note, there are some pesticides that are designed to be used in conjunction with others. Enstar AQ is not numbered, it is " IGR " for Insect Growth Regulator. When a tank mix of a Pyrethrin or Malathion for quick kill, and Enstar for long term disruption are blended together, it can be very effective. Enstar causes disruption in insects larvae maturation, they become sterile.

The whole area of using pesticides correctly is a science, please take time to read and follow directions.


 

Leo in N E Illinois

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For clarification, my tank mix was Decathlon WP, a group 3 pyrethrin, Enstar the IGR, and Pentac WP, a old school miticide for flat mites, spider mites, etc. At the time my orchid collection was over 1200 plants. I would spray 3 times in late summer, and the orchids would be clean until middle of summer the following year.

It was an expensive mix to make, but my orchids were worth the it.

The above is not something you want to do if your collection is just a couple "freebies".
But once you have significant work into your trees the price of the pesticides makes more sense.
 
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