My ghastly grafted maple

[LanceMac10]

My self...I think I paid close to 300 bucks!! It's ok to laugh!!
Did buy with an eye towards ACTUALLY putting it in the ground.
Damn New England prices!
I thought it would be a bit more "Fire-y Red", less "Ron Burgandy"

 

[Dav4]

They do good with lots of wind protection and morning sun only which I happen to have areas built for my trees to make them feel as much at home as I can, and on sale for 50%off $120.00, I figured not to bad for a 10 gallon maple that I've wanted for a long time.

That's definitely a good deal. Some dissectums have been successfully layered and grown on their own roots...I think you'd need to do this to deal with the telephone pole that is the lower trunk. Good luck.

 

[aml1014]

That's definitely a good deal. Some dissectums have been successfully layered and grown on their own roots...I think you'd need to do this to deal with the telephone pole that is the lower trunk. Good luck.

The trunk looks bad in the pics and I agree it has little taper but it is very muscular and pretty interesting in person.

 

[Nybonsai12]

$60? Or $120

 

[aml1014]

$60? Or $120

Paid 120

 

[ColinFraser]

that's the worst possible advice to give any body.

Then what was the nursery selling it for?!

 

[YukiShiro]

Hi Guys,

I've tried several times to air layer and make cuttings from crimson queen, No Joy. and I don't have any trouble air layering black pine in one season. So nothing wrong with my air layering technique.

Best regards
Herman

 

[aml1014]

Then what was the nursery selling it for?!

They live here fine you just have to take care of them and know what they need to thrive down here, otherwise the sun and wind will beat them to hell.

 

[Nybonsai12]

I'd return it if possible, but thats just me. you are in the hole $120 for a species that won't likely air layer well. Then there is the crazy idea to start grafting seedlings above/around the graft site to try and make a new root base large enough to support the top. So thats even more money on seedlings..and frankly it's not likely to work and even on the remote chance it does, it will still take years and years. So all in all, what 150-170 out the door on something that will take a few years just to fix the base?

I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything, I'm just saying getting a tree with a good starting point is half the battle. I used to buy nursery stock with lots of flaws and think I can make something out of it. I used to say, I'll use it to learn on. Every tree is a tree to learn on regardless of where it came from or what flaws it does or doesn't have. Maybe sometimes you can make something out of it, but the majority of them, are not worth the time, effort or money. i'm far from an expert, but if I have learned one thing from the more experienced folks, its start with good stock to give yourself the best chance at making a nice tree. Either way good luck to you.

 

[aml1014]

Thanks for everyone's input. Definitely not taking it back I'm gonna get help from the lady in my club we call "madame maple" with over 50 years of experience with maples I'm gonna go ahead and see what she says. Even if it does end up being a potted patio tree, it can always make a nice topiary specimen that I can enjoy, either way I like it. I'll update in a few months with what I have decided to do.
Edit: and just in case anyone is like "oh that's just another tree to take care of, its not worth the time" I work at a nursery where depending on the time of year I have between 8,000 to 20,000 plants to take care of and believe me one of my favorite past times is watering

 

[leatherback]

Good on you. Have fun with us, and keep us posted! Would be cool to see this transform in a jaw-dropping tree over the next few years, as some of the members here are able to do from time to time.

- Waiting to be amazed! -

 

[Dav4]

Also, over the years, I've moved away from species of plants that don't do well in my micro climate and, instead, focus on those that do. Spending a lot of extra time, effort (and money) on material that struggles to stay healthy in your yard will only yield mediocre results, or worse yet, a dead tree. If it doesn't grow well in the landscape there, I wouldn't use it as bonsai material.

 

[aml1014]

Also, over the years, I've moved away from species of plants that don't do well in my micro climate and, instead, focus on those that do. Spending a lot of extra time, effort (and money) on material that struggles to stay healthy in your yard will only yield mediocre results, or worse yet, a dead tree. If it doesn't grow well in the landscape there, I wouldn't use it as bonsai material.

I did specify I have areas built that japanese maples happen to thrive, so I'm not to worried on the health of the tree. I may not be a professional bonsai artist yet and nay never be but I am one hell of a horticulturalist.

 

[YukiShiro]

Thanks for everyone's input. Definitely not taking it back I'm gonna get help from the lady in my club we call "madame maple" with over 50 years of experience with maples I'm gonna go ahead and see what she says. Even if it does end up being a potted patio tree, it can always make a nice topiary specimen that I can enjoy, either way I like it. I'll update in a few months with what I have decided to do.
Edit: and just in case anyone is like "oh that's just another tree to take care of, its not worth the time" I work at a nursery where depending on the time of year I have between 8,000 to 20,000 plants to take care of and believe me one of my favorite past times is watering

The crimson queen is a very pretty cultivar, I really love the deep red of the leaves. My wife keeps her's on the patio too...prunes it every now and then. I had an Idea last night. Why don't you airlayer it as close to the graft as possible on the under-stock's side. That way the graft may disappear in the nebari ? and you have a good chance of the layer working because it is made on the normal palmatum side of the trunk.

best of luck AML

regards
Herman

 

[ColinFraser]

Why don't you airlayer it as close to the graft as possible on the under-stock's side . . .

Hmmm, sounds very familiar, haha:

A viable option if you're set on bonsai might be to do an air layer immediately below the graft. This would allow you to keep the vigorous rootstock . . .

 

[aml1014]

Hmmm, sounds very familiar, haha:

Don't worry Colin you gave me the idea first lol

 

[YukiShiro]

Don't worry Colin you gave me the idea first lol

Great minds

 

[aml1014]

So after discussion at my local club, I decided to go ahead and leave the tree grafted. We repotted into a training pot and I will cut it back hard and wire after its first flush of growth. The nebari was buried probably 7in below the surface so the tree is a bit taller now but it showed off a nice subtle curve in the trunk and a nice buttress that's around 5 in at soil level now. We didn't bareroot the tree considering we are having an extremely early spring and we didnt want it to be harmed by the cold we will inevitably get again before winter is truly over. I'm probably gonna have to play the in and out game with this tree if we have any freezes until April. As always comments and critiques are welcome.

Aaron

 

[aml1014]

This one is leafing out like crazy, it's also flowering which is cool because none of my maples have ever been old enough to bloom. Sorry about the mess in my coldhouse, repotting season just finished up for me.

Aaron

 

[DariusB]

I'm honestly curious to hear your clubs thought process/reasoning to leave this tree as is.