My hornbeam bonsai has scorched in 3 days of sun

[Digiwig]

Hi everyone.

Seeking urgent advice. I accidentally left my hornbeam bonsai out in direct sunlight (in 24c heat) for 3 days, without a drop of water.

I came back from a long weekend to a very poorly scorched little bonsai. The leaves have yellowed and gone all crispy dry.

See the photo attached.

Please advise best treatment. Should I remove the yellow/dry leaves?

I have brought the little guy indoors, and he is currently basking in the light of my tiny conservatory.

Thanks

View attachment 379482

 

[Digiwig]

Attaching image...

 

[TinyArt]

Hi everyone.

Seeking urgent advice. I accidentally left my hornbeam bonsai out in direct sunlight (in 24c heat) for 3 days, without a drop of water.

I came back from a long weekend to a very poorly scorched little bonsai. The leaves have yellowed and gone all crispy dry.

See the photo attached.

Please advise best treatment. Should I remove the yellow/dry leaves?

I have brought the little guy indoors, and he is currently basking in the light of my tiny conservatory.

Thanks

View attachment 379482

Hello Digwig,

Folks who know hornbeam will be along soon --

Meanwhile, it would be useful to add where you're located and what your climate zone is -- I think you can do it by clicking your profile, over on the left?

Best wishes on your bonsai journey, and good luck!

 

[eryk2kartman]

First i will water it through out and leave it outside in the shady location, i dont think bringing it to dry warm conservatory helps, i think it promotes further drying out.
Were the roots fully dried out too?

 

[Digiwig]

Hello Digwig,

Folks who know hornbeam will be along soon --

Meanwhile, it would be useful to add where you're located and what your climate zone is -- I think you can do it by clicking your profile, over on the left?

Best wishes on your bonsai journey, and good luck!

Located in England, which I believe is USDA zone 9.

 

[Digiwig]

First i will water it through out and leave it outside in the shady location, i dont think bringing it to dry warm conservatory helps, i think it promotes further drying out.
Were the roots fully dried out too?

It's well watered, and I've now moved it to a shaded area of my garden. How can I determine if the roots fully dried out? I don't want to go digging the roots out...

 

[ConorDash]

Hey. Yep this last week has been some GREAT weather.. but not so much if you leave a tree unwatered lol. Depending on substrate of course but I've had to water mine 3 times everyday.

Best chance, rely on the energy reserves of the tree. Obviously keep up watering. it looks like a kaizen mix you are using perhaps, or similar. its all free draining so water it plenty, 2-3 times a day, why not, you cant over water it. leave in the shade all the time, it doesnt need any more of that sun right now..

You could go a bit more extreme and put a bag over the whole thing. Helps build and keep humidity but I cant speak to it much, I've only done it in another situation.

Moss, do you have any sphag moss? Chop it up a bit and stick over the substrate. Will keep the roots moist and hydrated. If not, just keep up the watering. Best you can do is water it lots, and keep in the shade. And yes still outside. Dont bring it in.. no need to stress the tree with a change in environment, its been through enough.
If your hornbeam leafed out a good 3-4 weeks ago like mine did, its hopefully built up some energy this season.

I would compare your situation to a fully defoliation, basically. If the tree has the health for it, it will simply back bud and new leaves will form. Now is the time we see how healthy your tree is

 

[Digiwig]

Hey. Yep this last week has been some GREAT weather.. but not so much if you leave a tree unwatered lol. Depending on substrate of course but I've had to water mine 3 times everyday.

Best chance, rely on the energy reserves of the tree. Obviously keep up watering. it looks like a kaizen mix you are using perhaps, or similar. its all free draining so water it plenty, 2-3 times a day, why not, you cant over water it. leave in the shade all the time, it doesnt need any more of that sun right now..

You could go a bit more extreme and put a bag over the whole thing. Helps build and keep humidity but I cant speak to it much, I've only done it in another situation.

Moss, do you have any sphag moss? Chop it up a bit and stick over the substrate. Will keep the roots moist and hydrated. If not, just keep up the watering. Best you can do is water it lots, and keep in the shade. And yes still outside. Dont bring it in.. no need to stress the tree with a change in environment, its been through enough.
If your hornbeam leafed out a good 3-4 weeks ago like mine did, its hopefully built up some energy this season.

I would compare your situation to a fully defoliation, basically. If the tree has the health for it, it will simply back bud and new leaves will form. Now is the time we see how healthy your tree is

Fantastic advice.

Thank you so much.

I will leave it in the shade and water at least 3 times a day.

The bag idea, I will explore that if I don't start to see any new buds after 7-10 days or so.

Will keep you all posted!

 

[BobbyLane]

trees are stronger than many think. they can handle a mini drought. although its a huge set back for development this season.
check the RHS website and see what it says about hornbeams. best thing now is shade and hydration. i would only remove leaves that are crispy/useless. the ones with green near the base i would leave unless they fall off themselves. should bounce back in 2-4 weeks

 

[penumbra]

Caution, if you bag it with all those dead leaves you are going to have a massive fungal infection.
As to the future of the plant, it can handle a sunburn. It will drop the damaged leaves and grow new ones. It cannot handle baked roots and only time will tell if the damage is irreparable. Put it in the shade and make sure it stays moderately moist after the initial deep soaking. If you have a root system that is only partially destroyed, keeping it too wet will do it in as the damaged roots begin to decay and the rot continues into the living roots.
Best scenario would be to have someone more knowledgeable have a look at the root system to evaluate its survival chances. This would help narrow down your possible future actions and determine if an emergency re-pot is warranted.
I sure do hope it makes it.

 

[Paradox]

Located in England, which I believe is USDA zone 9.

Please put this on your profile so we don't have to keep asking you every time you post.

Put the tree in a shady location and make sure it doesn't dry out again. Hopefully it will come back. It may or may not produce new leaves again this season. If you scratch the bark on a branch and you see green cambium, it's still alive.

Also, do not water it 3 times a day unless it NEEDS it. Only water when the tree needs it. It will use and need less water until it gets some live leaves back.

 

[HorseloverFat]

I have too many plants with various needs.. I could never LEAVE for longer than 12 hours. a “long weekend“ sounds nice... I think I’d miss my plants, though

That looks pretty “toasted”...

Listen to advice given..

Sending Green and Blue Arrows your way!

I hope it pulls through for you..

 

[Forsoothe!]

As the resident contrarian, I have to say the tree is probably dead, but I'd sink the pot in a sunny place and water it as you would the garden. Not too wet, or any more drought. That is a very shallow pot which is unforgiving in drought.

 

[R3x]

I'd also suggest removing dead leaves - just cut them off.

 

[hinmo24t]

good luck! thats a great looking tree.

this was a good reminder for me. it was 90F, 15mph wind all day yesterday and i had to water thoroughly. i am going on a 2.5 day trip this upcoming weekend and might not ask a friend to come water because i am going to move almost all of my tree under a roofed breezeway, where they will be in mostly shade for a few days. im going to water them just before leaving. same w raised bed garden, going to drench them before leaving

i have an option for a garage that stays a bit cooler than the breezeway if forecast is super hot and windy later this week

 

[HorseloverFat]

As the resident contrarian, I have to say the tree is probably dead, but I'd sink the pot in a sunny place and water it as you would the garden. Not too wet, or any more drought. That is a very shallow pot which is unforgiving in drought.

This was DEFINITELY a thought of mine, as well...

You’re right though.. there’s MORE possible harm in “pulling punches”

If THAT’S how it appears after (let’s say) 2 days of SunBURN.. ...there’s a high probability it is CTD.

It takes about a week to OBSERVE the full effects of Sun Damage.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Attaching image...

It's not sun - it's something else. Sun damage starts from the outside of the leaf and works inwards. This damage is from the inside of the leaf heading out. Additionally, with sun damage the upper and outer leaves show the worse effects, while the inner and lower leaves are less damaged.

This is either insects or fungus. If I had to guess, it's a massive spider mite infection - because I can see webbing on the tree. Hold a dark piece of paper under one of the leaves and flick the leaf with your finger. See if you can observe any small bugs. Physically inspect the underside of the leaves and look for critters. Also, it would help if you would post close-up photos of curled leaves or the leaves with webbing (as close as you can get).

 

[HorseloverFat]

It's not sun - it's something else. Sun damage starts from the outside of the leaf and works inwards. This damage is from the inside of the leaf heading out. Additionally, with sun damage the upper and outer leaves show the worse effects, while the inner and lower leaves are less damaged.

This is either insects or fungus. If I had to guess, it's a massive spider mite infection - because I can see webbing on the tree. Hold a dark piece of paper under one of the leaves and flick the leaf with your finger. See if you can observe any small bugs. Physically inspect the underside of the leaves and look for critters. Also, it would help if you would post close-up photos of curled leaves or the leaves with webbing (as close as you can get).

View attachment 379534

GOOD EYE, @Bonsai Nut !

I see the webbing, now.

 

[penumbra]

It's not sun - it's something else. Sun damage starts from the outside of the leaf and works inwards. This damage is from the inside of the leaf heading out. Additionally, with sun damage the upper and outer leaves show the worse effects, while the inner and lower leaves are less damaged.

This is either insects or fungus. If I had to guess, it's a massive spider mite infection - because I can see webbing on the tree. Hold a dark piece of paper under one of the leaves and flick the leaf with your finger. See if you can observe any small bugs. Physically inspect the underside of the leaves and look for critters. Also, it would help if you would post close-up photos of curled leaves or the leaves with webbing (as close as you can get).

View attachment 379534

If this is the case, it is a good thing. Mites are a scourge but the little bastards can be controlled.
Sure does take some work though if there are a lot of plants nearby.

 

[Forsoothe!]

It's not sun - it's something else. Sun damage starts from the outside of the leaf and works inwards. This damage is from the inside of the leaf heading out. Additionally, with sun damage the upper and outer leaves show the worse effects, while the inner and lower leaves are less damaged.

This is either insects or fungus. If I had to guess, it's a massive spider mite infection - because I can see webbing on the tree. Hold a dark piece of paper under one of the leaves and flick the leaf with your finger. See if you can observe any small bugs. Physically inspect the underside of the leaves and look for critters. Also, it would help if you would post close-up photos of curled leaves or the leaves with webbing (as close as you can get).

View attachment 379534

If that's true, then the tree was kept too dry in the first place. People who use shallow pots are mimicking the Japanese professionals, often without the concurrent commitment that is necessary. That's not a commitment to lookin' good, it's a commitment to tending to the needs of the tree as a primary part of the daily routine.