My Korean hornbeam

aphid

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I got this collected Korean hornbeam from a local bonsai store in 2009. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like pre-bonsai. The tree was actually a bit taller, but I didn't like the top of it so I chopped it off. This is the spring picture from 2009.



I keep forgetting to take fall pictures, but it wasn't that pretty anyway this past fall because of the weird weather. I just trimmed the branches and took this picture tonight. The root base is all buried now. I need to repot it this year. I have never wired this tree and simply use the clip and grow method. I'm tempted to get rid of the bottom right branch... I have been keeping it hoping that it would help thicken that part of the trunk, but it doesn't seem to do anything. :rolleyes:

 

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For that branch to thicken that part of the trunk, are you allowing the branch to grow freely? Also, Do you have any plans for the base of the tree?
 

Poink88

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Just sharing some CRAZY ideas to fix some problems and re-build (long term)... :eek:
 

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aphid

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For that branch to thicken that part of the trunk, are you allowing the branch to grow freely? Also, Do you have any plans for the base of the tree?

No, I haven't been letting it grow freely. I should do that.

As for the base, I should do some grafting for roots, but I haven't found small and inexpensive cuttings I can use. How many grafts do you think I need?
 

aphid

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Just sharing some CRAZY ideas to fix some problems and re-build (long term)... :eek:

I had thought about cutting all the branches and regrow them because I really dislike the current top, but I haven't got the courage to do it. Haha

That root flare isn't actually that easy. I wonder if I could just bury the tree lower to hide the obvious knob?
 
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Brian Van Fleet

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Just sharing some CRAZY ideas to fix some problems and re-build (long term)... :eek:
What's your idea, to photoshop a better base on it? In the event you're not familiar with these old Yamadori K. coreana, the base is basically, get what you get. I've had one in a pot for 7 years and haven't seen any changes other than branch density. They don't heal wounds well, so thread grafting isn't much of an option either. Mine is very similar to this one, and I actually put it in the ground to work on some similar issues I'm having with it...we'll see how it goes, and I'll be sharing.

If anything, I'd consider planting this one deeper, with a 25-30 degree slant to the right. It could widen the base at the soil level, and improve the taper of the chop above. Or, simply enjoy the rare specimen that it is...warts and all.
 

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I had thought about cutting all the branches and regrow them because I really dislike the current top, but I haven't got the courage to do it. Haha

That root flare isn't actually that easy. I wonder if I could just barely the tree lower to hide the obvious knob?

I've read they can be easily air layered but if it fails you destroy the tree. :( Safer to graft new plants to your existing base. There is a recent thread about that (maple root work)...check it out.

I think the biggest improvement change you can do is by removing that left "knob" (middle of tree) by carving it out.

Good luck!
 

Poink88

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What's your idea, to photoshop a better base on it? In the event you're not familiar with these old Yamadori K. coreana, the base is basically, get what you get. I've had one in a pot for 7 years and haven't seen any changes other than branch density. They don't heal wounds well, so thread grafting isn't much of an option either. Mine is very similar to this one, and I actually put it in the ground to work on some similar issues I'm having with it...we'll see how it goes, and I'll be sharing.

If anything, I'd consider planting this one deeper, with a 25-30 degree slant to the right. It could widen the base at the soil level, and improve the taper of the chop above. Or, simply enjoy the rare specimen that it is...warts and all.

I have a couple and they seem to heal well enough for me. I haven't done it yet but posted an inquiry here about how well they air layer and also found several articles that they do...so I ASSUMED they can be air layered.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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I've read they can be easily air layered but if it fails you destroy the tree. :( Safer to graft new plants to your existing base. There is a recent thread about that (maple root work)...check it out.

I think the biggest improvement change you can do is by removing that left "knob" (middle of tree) by carving it out.

Good luck!
From my experience with mine, I wouldn't do any of these.

Air layering is risky, and the warty base, which we'll never be able to replicate in our lifetimes, will be lost. This tree is 60-100 years old.

Grafting would be an interesting experiment, but with the slow pace they callus, I think you'd end up just scarring the trunk. Not worth the risk IMO. Maples are different than hornbeams.

Removing that left knob will create a wound that, again, won't heal, and will rot.

I'm not sure how old your K. coreana are Dario, but there is a distinct difference in pace and approach when you're dealing with older vs. younger material.
 

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Thanks for the correction. Mine are younger...1.5" diameter base, nothing near this.

It is a hornbeam and being a sucker for deadwood, IF THIS IS MINE, and with the current bulge...I will still go with the carving. :eek:
 

Brian Van Fleet

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It is a hornbeam and being a sucker for deadwood, IF THIS IS MINE, and with the current bulge...I will still go with the carving. :eek:

Well, there you go...what Dario would do if he had one...and what I did do with mine.

BTW, this hornbeam came from the same nursery as the OP...probably from the same village in Korea, and arrived on the same boat.
 

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Poink88

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Very nice tree you got there, love the "muscles".

I am dangerous that way Brian...even your tree I would do something radical at the chop area IF IT IS MINE. LOL (Remember my "no potential tree thread"? Similar to that) :)
 

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Very nice tree you got there, love the "muscles".

I am dangerous that way Brian...even your tree I would do something radical at the chop area IF IT IS MINE. LOL (Remember my "no potential tree thread"? Similar to that) :)

...Even if you paid a grand or more for it?? That's expensive material to be dangerous with.
 

Poink88

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...Even if you paid a grand or more for it?? That's expensive material to be dangerous with.

Yep. I do not usually settle IF I believe I can improve it...else I will never be happy with it. That is not what I went with this hobby for.
 

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I'm with Brian, plant it deeper and you have a nice solid base/nebari.
 

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...Even if you paid a grand or more for it?? That's expensive material to be dangerous with.

Yep. I do not usually settle IF I believe I can improve it...else I will never be happy with it. That is not what I went with this hobby for.

I guess my point is that it's easy to say these things when it's all hypothetical...that is, until the money has left your checking account and the tree is sitting on a bench in your back yard.

I have never owned one of these old, imported hornbeams and don't know much about their growth and vigor, which is why the most I can add to the discussion directly pertaining to this tree is "Nice!", and "Good luck with it!".
 

aphid

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Thank you for all for your input.

The branches are really hard and can't be wired so I'm not sure if I can plant it slanting to the right, but I'll definite try to bury it lower this spring. :) The tree is very slow growing so grafting the roots would probably leave some obvious marks. I heard Korea has banned these old trees from being collected and shipped abroad. I definitely don't want to expiriment with air laying and lose it. It's extremely difficult to find one that has a nice taper and perfect branch placement unless you are willing to pay like $1500 for it.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Very nice tree you got there, love the "muscles".

I am dangerous that way Brian...even your tree I would do something radical at the chop area IF IT IS MINE. LOL (Remember my "no potential tree thread"? Similar to that) :)

Dangerous can become foolish pretty quickly if you don't know what you're doing. Do it in your yard first, and then we'll really have something to talk about.
 

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I got this collected Korean hornbeam from a local bonsai store in 2009. I forgot to take a picture of what it looked like pre-bonsai. The tree was actually a bit taller, but I didn't like the top of it so I chopped it off. This is the spring picture from 2009.



I keep forgetting to take fall pictures, but it wasn't that pretty anyway this past fall because of the weird weather. I just trimmed the branches and took this picture tonight. The root base is all buried now. I need to repot it this year. I have never wired this tree and simply use the clip and grow method. I'm tempted to get rid of the bottom right branch... I have been keeping it hoping that it would help thicken that part of the trunk, but it doesn't seem to do anything. :rolleyes:


My favorite species of tree to work with in Bonsai so this post struck me nicely. In my opinion you dont need it. The one branch directly above the one your considering (It runs almost parallel to it) removing can be used as the secondary branch... You will achieve great symetry... To compensate for the gap from soil line to where branch is removed, id tilt the tree during repot a bit or you can simply use gi wire to bring the new secondary branch down further to offset the primary branch. Beams are robust trees. I absolutely love them... yours looks great!!! Good stuff

James
 

aphid

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My favorite species of tree to work with in Bonsai so this post struck me nicely. In my opinion you dont need it. The one branch directly above the one your considering (It runs almost parallel to it) removing can be used as the secondary branch... You will achieve great symetry... To compensate for the gap from soil line to where branch is removed, id tilt the tree during repot a bit or you can simply use gi wire to bring the new secondary branch down further to offset the primary branch. Beams are robust trees. I absolutely love them... yours looks great!!! Good stuff

James

Thank you! I'll get rid of the lowest right branch. It's been bothering me. I don't know if I can bend the branches, but I'll go ahead and try to tilt the tree a bit and also pulling the branches down to match the new angle of the tree. This is exciting!! I can't wait for spring!

What do you think about the top? Should I chop it and redo? This is actually a lot better than when I first got it. It got all sorts of reversed taper up there before.
 
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