My Latest Indoor Greenhouse

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
Let me know when they've established and I'll take some off your hands.. It's not too far a drive and I could use some decent stock


Look toward spring time. I've got Ficus macrophylla, Ficus benghalensis, Ficus ingens, Ficus rubiginosa, Ficus obliqua, Ficus virens, and Ficus religiosa seeds I'll get started on planting this week.
 

mcpesq817

Omono
Messages
1,810
Reaction score
499
Location
VA
USDA Zone
7
Maybe you need to change your alias to "Ficus Ryan"? ;)
 

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
Maybe you need to change your alias to "Ficus Ryan"? ;)


I've really been considering that. Back when I started this hobby I was all into Redwoods, but that's changed a little bit since :rolleyes:
 

KennedyMarx

Omono
Messages
1,708
Reaction score
427
Location
Indiana (Zone 6a)
USDA Zone
6a
How do you have viable seeds? From reading Jerry Meislik's ficus book I thought that they had to have a certain wasp to propagate.
 

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
How do you have viable seeds? From reading Jerry Meislik's ficus book I thought that they had to have a certain wasp to propagate.


They do, I just order them from online from places like Australia.
 

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
The rubiginosa are always first to sprout. Looks like I'm going to have a good amount of them too.
001.JPG
 

Nybonsai12

Masterpiece
Messages
3,824
Reaction score
7,637
Location
NY
USDA Zone
7a
I've really been considering that. Back when I started this hobby I was all into Redwoods, but that's changed a little bit since :rolleyes:

got any pics of your redwoods?
 

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
Rubiginosa make excellent material, by the way. Here's a seedling of mine that I sprouted a few months ago. It got unhappy, dropped leaves, and is now sprouting back with a vengeance:
013.JPG
 

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
I have, but I just don't really see a need too. If the trees are growing as well as they are, I don't really want to change things up.


However I am really intrigued now and am doing a good amount more research....
 
Messages
1,972
Reaction score
1,423
Location
Coastal S.C.
USDA Zone
8b
I wonder if optimal CO2 levels for plants would be high enough to slow down the spider mites or other critters?
 

Redwood Ryan

Masterpiece
Messages
4,555
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Virginia
USDA Zone
7A
I wonder if optimal CO2 levels for plants would be high enough to slow down the spider mites or other critters?


I heard it works on slowing bugs. However, with temperatures in the mid 90s, I feel CO2 wouldn't work as well as it would at lower levels.
 

MrBojan9les

Seedling
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Location
Phoenix
USDA Zone
9a
I heard it works on slowing bugs. However, with temperatures in the mid 90s, I feel CO2 wouldn't work as well as it would at lower levels.

So, I'm a complete newb on the whole bonsai thing...but, I'm a hort. major, I do love my plants and know a decent amount about them and their physiology..

First, as far as the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" thought (redwood ryan), I can certainly see where you're coming from...but, with this..you ain't gonna break anything by adding some co2..I can promise you that and have used it in the past quite a bit.. Consider that in the normal air that we breathe, CO2 levels are about 350ppm. In an enclosed space with lots of plants, CO2 levels can be greatly depleted during the respiration process. I'm sure that everything about the way bonsai are grown minimizes this...but, the fact remains that plants will use it up in small, contained spaces and depending on how much plant material and the volume of the space, it sometimes absolutely must be added..and generally is a great benefit and causes accelerated growth...which I would think in bonsai could be extremely useful...basically would "age" the tree faster..

Now, even if your plants are not depleting the levels in the room...that does not mean they wouldn't like more.. As I said above, co2 is typically around 350 ppm in the air we breathe...many plants are able to USE CO2 at levels up to 1500ppm or even a bit more... Many plants will grow faster by 1/3 or more..some are able to synthesize the CO2 for themselves (C4 plants) to maximum efficiency and do not benefit from the higher levels..but most all trees are c3 plants and will benefit. Another residual benefit is reduced respiration (water loss), so plants are more drought tolerant, and will tolerate lower humidity than they would prefer normally and will be happier and grow faster at higher temperatures. When you think about it, it's quite amazing because as CO2 levels rise in the atmosphere, temps do as well...so obviously plants are "designed" to tolerate these changes and adapt..

There are also many other indirect effects caused by manipulation of CO2 levels..some not positive.. One issue that would affect nursery/food production negatively is that plants kept at higher co2 levels will develop smaller leaves, and eventually spines.. Now, this is a change in plants that would happen over a very long period of time..but something to consider more so when looking at our currently and always changing atmosphere that we, as a species, have a big hand in..

I don't know a ton about the effects that CO2 has on insects...but I am familiar with the concept and have read about it a bit as it definitely seems interesting.., and I know that exposing insects in a controlled environment (like a green house) to high levels of CO2 can very quickly kill or immobilize some insects.. I do know there are lots of studies and research looking in to it..and I have no doubt that they will figure out some practical applications.. I mean..conceptually, it sounds like an amazing idea.. To be able to (possibly) eradicate all of the insects in a closed system without harsh chemicals...that would also prevent the huge problem of killing 99% of the insects, and have only the strongest and most resistant 1% survive...and the recover with populations of resistant pests.....especially for plants that we consume.. for (Would likely have the unfortunate residual effect of killing of the beneficial insects as well..and I have no idea how it could affect things like mycorrhiza and other beneficial organisms living in the soil..) the What I don't know is how high the levels need to be, how effective it would be, and what insects would be affected...

Ok, I could go on and on, but need to do some actual work.. But..as far as pest managment..I'd have to research, but I'd imagine the CO2 would need to be raised to a high level for a short time period..probably easiest method would be a CO2 tank, which you can get a regulator for, or you can manually open and close the valve.. I'm speculating, but that would be the method that I know would raise levels quickly and then could be easily brought down again..

Methods I have used to add CO2 are as follows:

The mycellium CO2 bags that I referred to in my previous post work well, will keep consistent levels with out big spikes and drops in an enclosed type system like your green house. They are relatively inexpensive and generally last around 6 months until their production of CO2 starts to drop off and won't keep your levels as high (although will still help..). It's as simple as figuring the volume of the space to figure out how many bags you'd need (I would think just 1 for your greenhouse would be plenty)..

CO2 tank - same tanks that are used for soda machines and kegerator. They cost a little more...but I'd guess a tank and regulator would be maybe $200-$300 and tanks last quite a while, then you have them refilled basically like propane tanks.

The simplest method is just a 1 gallon milk container or similar, yeast, water and sugar.. I haven't set these up for a while, but they do work and will last about 2-3 weeks.. Very cheap set up, and it does the trick and will produce and raise levels..

One thing to keep in mind, CO2 is heavier than o2, so where it is dispensed should be above the plants they are fertilizing. Having a small computer fan or something similar to move the air around within the closed system is a good way to make sure it's available.. I have ran small diam. capped poly line hoses with small holes punched and then mount the hose above the plants... It does work.. Read about it, it's the single most limiting factor in plant growth that we are able to manipulate and bring to levels that are much higher than in nature... CO2 = steroids for plants!! Is that cheating..?? Lots more good info out there...but hopefully some food for thought and hopefully not too random and disorganized...trying to get back to work!!
 
Top Bottom