evolutionrevolution
Mame
Can anyone recommend a mycorrhizae product? I have a bunch of junipers to repot soon and want to give this a go.. TIA!
Mycorrhizae Product Recs?
- Thread starter evolutionrevolution
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M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
I don't use them.
No need.
No need.
Adamantium
Mame
When you repot, do you use some of the old soil? I was told never to bare root conifers.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I put mycowhatever on akadama soil and it literally clogged the soil with white fluff.
No need.
No need.
cbroad
Omono
I use Espoma's Biotone when I repot my plants, it's a 4-3-3 starter fertilizer but I use it as a general fertilizer. To get it's myco and bacteria benefits it must come in contact with the roots (no top dressing).
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evolutionrevolution
Mame
Am i right to believe junipers are so sensitive to repotting due to loss of mycorrhizae? Hence why the half bare root method is more successful than a total repot.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Not needed. Keep some of the old soil.
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I've gotten to the point, that if I transplant anything (especially bare rooting) I apply a product that I found here in Canada.
http://www.rootrescue.com/site/retail-pack
It's easy to use. I do my transplant... do an abbreviated watering (like 95%)... and finish it off (the watering) with the Root Rescue application. It looks like tea, and each planting requires only one application. (My intention is re-apply the Root Rescue if I bare root any tree going forward.)
HOWEVER, I will say this. It would be highly debatable as to the effectiveness of these applications, but I have much more disposable cash for my hobbies than the average Joe... for me, it's a no-brainer... for someone who doesn't have a lot of extra money to throw around, "you could probably do without it, provided that you save some old soil as has been recommended."
The local garden centres will warrantee a tree for 12 months here, but if you buy and apply the Root Rescue, they will extend that warrantee to 5 years. Recently, I was told "by a large garden centre", that the suppliers are applying Root Rescue before the products are shipped to the store... argue this point however you will, but if the nurseries are applying it before shipping out their products (and extending the warrantee), there is a huge benefit for them to do so.
The Myke product has many of the same mycorrhizae as the Root Rescue product, but it has to come into contact with the roots. I used this product today when I repotted a Brazilian Rain Tree... dust it over the roots and into the hole, then plant your tree.
https://www.usemyke.com/en-ca/products/natural-growth-enhancers/myke-trees-and-shrubs/
I prefer the Root Rescue, especially in the spring when you're doing a lot of trees in one day... I water it in all in one go right at the end of the day. (Remember, I'm in Canada, not Florida, so watering at the end of the day is not the same thing) When I transplant one tree at a time, I go with the other.
If you're only intending to use it on one plant, it might be better if you determine what type of mycorrhizae is beneficial to your tree... then be sure the product you buy has that in it. Each plant type will only sustain a few of the types of mycorrhizae, the rest die off. IMHO, there is no difference between name-brands as one mycorrhizae is the same as the other... I prefer the Root Rescue, because I can't forget to apply it to a tree unless I miss watering that tree along with all the others, which I think is highly unlikely... missing an application on the roots of one tree (for me,) highly probable.
I'm going to try the Root Rescue on my cannabis plants when it comes legal to grow here this spring. (One tip with the Root Rescue though... don't try to apply it through a "rose" on your watering can... they will just clog the holes.)
http://www.rootrescue.com/site/retail-pack
It's easy to use. I do my transplant... do an abbreviated watering (like 95%)... and finish it off (the watering) with the Root Rescue application. It looks like tea, and each planting requires only one application. (My intention is re-apply the Root Rescue if I bare root any tree going forward.)
HOWEVER, I will say this. It would be highly debatable as to the effectiveness of these applications, but I have much more disposable cash for my hobbies than the average Joe... for me, it's a no-brainer... for someone who doesn't have a lot of extra money to throw around, "you could probably do without it, provided that you save some old soil as has been recommended."
The local garden centres will warrantee a tree for 12 months here, but if you buy and apply the Root Rescue, they will extend that warrantee to 5 years. Recently, I was told "by a large garden centre", that the suppliers are applying Root Rescue before the products are shipped to the store... argue this point however you will, but if the nurseries are applying it before shipping out their products (and extending the warrantee), there is a huge benefit for them to do so.
The Myke product has many of the same mycorrhizae as the Root Rescue product, but it has to come into contact with the roots. I used this product today when I repotted a Brazilian Rain Tree... dust it over the roots and into the hole, then plant your tree.
https://www.usemyke.com/en-ca/products/natural-growth-enhancers/myke-trees-and-shrubs/
I prefer the Root Rescue, especially in the spring when you're doing a lot of trees in one day... I water it in all in one go right at the end of the day. (Remember, I'm in Canada, not Florida, so watering at the end of the day is not the same thing) When I transplant one tree at a time, I go with the other.
If you're only intending to use it on one plant, it might be better if you determine what type of mycorrhizae is beneficial to your tree... then be sure the product you buy has that in it. Each plant type will only sustain a few of the types of mycorrhizae, the rest die off. IMHO, there is no difference between name-brands as one mycorrhizae is the same as the other... I prefer the Root Rescue, because I can't forget to apply it to a tree unless I miss watering that tree along with all the others, which I think is highly unlikely... missing an application on the roots of one tree (for me,) highly probable.
I'm going to try the Root Rescue on my cannabis plants when it comes legal to grow here this spring. (One tip with the Root Rescue though... don't try to apply it through a "rose" on your watering can... they will just clog the holes.)
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Different trees symbiotic with different mycorrhizae. Trees seem to develop naturally(out of airborn spores?)and unless roots mistakenly hosed off mycorrhizae remains and redevelops. Using wrong strain does little to no good
.
.Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
I'm going to try the Root Rescue on my cannabis plants when it comes legal to grow here this spring.=QUOTE]
In USA is against Ferderal law! Will not become legal
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
No...I'm no expert but Pines and if I'm not mistaken Spruce, or anything really with roots that only end in pencil tip sized points, the ones lacking fine root hairs...
Those are the trees that need the symbiotic relationship in order to survive at all, well, maybe not at all, but as bonsai sure!
I use a similar biotone product, and it doesn't cause the harm some stuff does.
But also, no sprays, no worries, earth provides.
Sorce
Dav4
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You would have to be extremely aggressive cleaning the roots to fully remove any myc present. If it's in the soil prior to re-pot, it'll be there after the re-pot, and if it'll re-colonize the soil if conditions are right. Don't waste your money on products you don't need... save them for pots from Matt Ouwinga!
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Was going to say "groceries", but your way works!
Meh.....probably washes out before anything of consequence can start "percolating".....
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This is a handy chart to begin your search:
https://www.bio-organics.com/pages/specific-plants-trees-endo-mycorrhizae-and-ecto-mycorrhizae
Three informative articles:
http://torontobonsai.org/archive/Archives/horticulture/mycorrhizae.htm
http://www.encyclopedia.com/science/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/mycorrhiza-0 (This article states echo)
http://mycorrhizae.com/wp-content/uploads/Types-of-Mycorrhizal-Plants.pdf (This article states endo- )
I guess this might be the answer to the echo/endo contradiction:
https://books.google.ca/books?id=U2...f endomycorrhizal do junipers require&f=false
It appears the type of fungus required for junipers depends on the species you have. And, being a bit of a lazy sloth when it comes to other peoples problems, (and NOT being a juniper guy at all) I'll leave the rest of the research to you.
The way I'd sum it up would be this:
If you have the money to apply the above products, go ahead and try them.
If you have two junipers of the same species apply it to one and not the other, looking for results going forward.
I always look at things in a dollars and cents approach. If the products had no value, you wouldn't likely see them on the shelves season after season because people simply would not buy them. And if the products had no value at all, the nurseries wouldn't be applying them before their trees and shrubs are sent to the garden centres. And I suppose, if you knew how cheap I am, you'd know that I wouldn't spend $ on something that I didn't see a benefit from applying.
I apply it to anything "woody", and in particular saw great benefits with peppers and kangaroo's foot apple trees. However, it is much easier to see the benefits on plants that you'd normally grow each season from seed. Seeing a true benefit on a transplanted tree would be much harder because of all the variables involved... the only time that someone might assume there is no benefit to using them is if there is no fungi in the pot, box, planter when repotting; but even so, the plant may be using/dependent on echo- and not the visible endo mycorrhizae for nutrient transfer.
There is one bit of a glitch with relying on mycorrhizae, in that some chemical fertilizers may kill them. But to my mind, if I can colonize with mycorrhizae and supplement with organic fertilizers and the two bring a tree into a healthier state, then I can likely cut back on the fertilizers I need to apply and have a healthier plant overall. The "pay-back" dollars wise, (from the application of mycorrhizae) comes from not having to apply as much fertilizer, water, and general plant health.
https://www.bio-organics.com/pages/specific-plants-trees-endo-mycorrhizae-and-ecto-mycorrhizae
Three informative articles:
http://torontobonsai.org/archive/Archives/horticulture/mycorrhizae.htm
http://www.encyclopedia.com/science/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/mycorrhiza-0 (This article states echo)
http://mycorrhizae.com/wp-content/uploads/Types-of-Mycorrhizal-Plants.pdf (This article states endo- )
I guess this might be the answer to the echo/endo contradiction:
https://books.google.ca/books?id=U2...f endomycorrhizal do junipers require&f=false
It appears the type of fungus required for junipers depends on the species you have. And, being a bit of a lazy sloth when it comes to other peoples problems, (and NOT being a juniper guy at all) I'll leave the rest of the research to you.
The way I'd sum it up would be this:
If you have the money to apply the above products, go ahead and try them.
If you have two junipers of the same species apply it to one and not the other, looking for results going forward.
I always look at things in a dollars and cents approach. If the products had no value, you wouldn't likely see them on the shelves season after season because people simply would not buy them. And if the products had no value at all, the nurseries wouldn't be applying them before their trees and shrubs are sent to the garden centres. And I suppose, if you knew how cheap I am, you'd know that I wouldn't spend $ on something that I didn't see a benefit from applying.
I apply it to anything "woody", and in particular saw great benefits with peppers and kangaroo's foot apple trees. However, it is much easier to see the benefits on plants that you'd normally grow each season from seed. Seeing a true benefit on a transplanted tree would be much harder because of all the variables involved... the only time that someone might assume there is no benefit to using them is if there is no fungi in the pot, box, planter when repotting; but even so, the plant may be using/dependent on echo- and not the visible endo mycorrhizae for nutrient transfer.
There is one bit of a glitch with relying on mycorrhizae, in that some chemical fertilizers may kill them. But to my mind, if I can colonize with mycorrhizae and supplement with organic fertilizers and the two bring a tree into a healthier state, then I can likely cut back on the fertilizers I need to apply and have a healthier plant overall. The "pay-back" dollars wise, (from the application of mycorrhizae) comes from not having to apply as much fertilizer, water, and general plant health.
GGB
Masterpiece
I bought a small tub of "gnarly roots" brand myco because it was only five bucks on Amazon. If I dig up a pine and most or all of the soil falls away I'll dust the roots before potting. The stuff works really well. I love it, I know most say it's useless but if t works why not. It was like 5 bucks. It won't clog your pots if you dust before potting
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With all due respect, I'd view "clogging with white stuff" as a great thing... IMHO, the "white stuff" was prolific mycorrhizae doing what mycorrhizae are supposed to do...
The more mycorrhizae in the pot, the less water you have to apply (to a point of course)...
I suspect that in 5 years time, applying mycorrhizae will be as much of an accepted part of bonsai as wiring trees is now.
The more mycorrhizae in the pot, the less water you have to apply (to a point of course)...
I suspect that in 5 years time, applying mycorrhizae will be as much of an accepted part of bonsai as wiring trees is now.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
If you like to see it, this is good if you want it in your soil.
This was from a bonsai of mine a couple years ago lol
Maybe I over applied it?
This was from a bonsai of mine a couple years ago lol
Maybe I over applied it?
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
We had huge bacterial problems due to some very bad moves by the previous owner here in 2015. Since then the landscape has been not changed but painfully replaced. All good EXCEPT we are replacing all of the mulched in areas with stone - the white you pictured is so dense under the mulch I use a very high concentration of chemicals to kill it... Why? Because it slowly destroys otherwise good landscape plants such as expensive Roses and even hardy brush like Barberry...
Said that to say not all of it is good.
Grimmy
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I did not like it because it really slowed down drainage in the akadama,it ran all through it lol.
Funny photo ,really.
I know......it’s like what is that.
I could change the spare bedroom into a grow room to cultivate it since I know how to produce it in this form.....and then re-brand it and sell it in live quantities like you can with green spahgnum.
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