New apple tree

Apple and crab apple trunks grow like ever expanding cylinders with out outside interference.

The best apple bonsai I saw to date was field grown and every year run over by a riding lawnmower. Once dug up the same process was used to grow out the trunk and branches.

So if incredible character and taper is what you want, that’s what your process is going to be.

Here’s a thread of a crabapple project I’ve been working on for a couple years that might show this better than words can.


Best
DSD sends
 
Apple and crab apple trunks grow like ever expanding cylinders with out outside interference.

The best apple bonsai I saw to date was field grown and every year run over by a riding lawnmower. Once dug up the same process was used to grow out the trunk and branches.

So if incredible character and taper is what you want, that’s what your process is going to be.

Here’s a thread of a crabapple project I’ve been working on for a couple years that might show this better than words can.
Mhhh but now is late to do big cuts on the trunk or not ? This is why I was thinking to cut where the red line is. And for the branches ?

20251202_105042.jpg
 
I don't know about the timing of the chop, but I love the plan! Cool tree.
 
Agree, if you do not want to trunk chop lower, the red cut will do.

Once finished, choose the best placed of the three new top branches. Wire one up, one sideways and remove the other.

Cut branches as needed in an appropriate place to foster taper and movement.

We cut the crabs/apples and cherries in winter frequently. Just spray wound with alcohol and seal.

Best
DSD sends
 
Agree, if you do not want to trunk chop lower, the red cut will do.

Once finished, choose the best placed of the three new top branches. Wire one up, one sideways and remove the other.

Cut branches as needed in an appropriate place to foster taper and movement.

We cut the crabs/apples and cherries in winter frequently. Just spray wound with alcohol and seal.

Best
DSD sends
Ok, something like this, or if you have other point of view it's always very welcome. And for the first long branch, I leave it longer last year to make diameter.

20251202_10504b2.jpg
 
From the images, this is what might work well. Many of the outward part of the branches are excess to good design. The job , as I see it from the image is primary prune then clip and grow.

Might make big cut and preliminary cuts now. In Jan/Feb as winter closes and epicormic buds pop out inward of those cuts, make a better choice.

However, you are on scene and there is no better place to be when choosing!

IMG_0860.jpeg

Best
DSD sends
 
Might make big cut and preliminary cuts now. In Jan/Feb as winter closes and epicormic buds pop out inward of those cuts, make a better choice.
Ok I will do it, honestly with your advices my pines are much better and you have literally saved them, so lets go, and you have much more experience than me.
I hope that the new apex will bent easily, because it is quite hard to move and I have fear to broke it .
About the yellow cut on the first branch, why the colour is different , yellow instead of red ? Because of different timing of cut ?

Thank you so much
 
For the big cut is better a flat cut or a concave cut ?
I both cases I will cover with japanese paste
Saw it off if possible.
Ok I will do it, honestly with your advices my pines are much better and you have literally saved them, so lets go, and you have much more experience than me.
I hope that the new apex will bent easily, because it is quite hard to move and I have fear to broke it .
About the yellow cut on the first branch, why the colour is different , yellow instead of red ? Because of different timing of cut ?

Thank you so much

Thank you very much Max! Glad to see your trees are doing better.

First - timing of cuts. It is best to do the big cuts during a spell of clear winter weather. imho getting moisture on a non conifer cut is never a good idea. For cuts larger than 2cm it’s best to use alcohol first, then cut putty. (For smaller ones can use alcohol then cut paste.) Please ensure alcohol dries prior to applying either.

On branches - there is are two ways of thinking. First make the cuts all at the same time as the big cut. Most folks do this to save time.

If one has a bit more time. Preliminary cuts, short of the actual intended cut areas early in winter, then wait for the January/February period when the epicormic buds begin to show. ( Again during a clear cold spell.) Then use these to inform the final cuts.

The latter procedure has the advantage of showing exactly where the bud placement is before pruning. It’s my opinion this will also save more energy since energy isn’t expended in pushing buds in the areas already pruned off.

Anyways just my thoughts.

Happy Samichaus!
DSD sends
 
Thanks to you....

Saw it off if possible.
It's a bit complicate with the angle but with the japanese saw should be possible


For cuts larger than 2cm it’s best to use alcohol first, then cut putty. (For smaller ones can use alcohol then cut paste.) Please ensure alcohol dries prior to applying either.
Putty is like this one ? or the japanese hard one ?

1990449_picture_2.webp
 
Do your best 😎

Sorry the words are similar.

Your image shows cut paste, similar to the Japanese version
IMG_0865.png

Cut putty is as you mentioned later. This one is used for deciduous trees. The green top one (not shown) is for conifers and azaleas.
IMG_0864.png

Best
DSD Sends
 
Don’t see why not.

The only differences I could figure out was the green top one has fungicide in it which the white doesn’t and the colors are different. There may be more to it than that, but have used these interchangeably in a pinch with no apparent difference.

Cheers
DAD sends
 
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