New bonsai help

[MAbro515]

Hey guys! So first time bonsai guy here looking for some tips on care for my Japanese juniper bonsai. I was given a bonsai starter it for christmas year and Im super excited. So I repotted it when I first got it on christmas then again just today because there was a large amount of roots showing right below the trunk.

Question #1: When repotting my bonsai I noticed while trimming roots that there was a dense portion of roots/dirt in the center of the root ball that wasn't budging when i tried to spread what roots were there out. What is this and should I remove it because it causes my bonsai to not want to sit right in its pot; it makes the tree too tall for the pot causing it to have a mound above the soil. Im assuming its just the root ball.

I repotted it today because the roots were bugging me due to the "mounding" so i tried to spread what Im assuming is the root ball of the tree out and trimming some of the roots near the trunk to reduce the amount of them showing after planting. Im hoping repotting it so soon after the first time doesn't shock the plant too much.

Question#2: when should I start pruning and wiring my plant?

Its the beginning of January and most of the sites i've checked say to wait until the beginning of spring for both but I thought I remember seeing somewhere that pruning early has certain desired affects. Also in order to wire my plant, which ive read should be done outside of the growth season I would need to prune as my plant is quite dense. It looks as though wiring has been done already as it has very much been growing in the "Kengai" style which im planning to continue.

Question # 3: Would wiring be a good idea this soon after being repotted and with knowing that i would need to prune in the winter in order to do so efficiently?

Question # 4: when is the soonest i should wire and prune in an expert's opinion.

Question# 5: would pruning in the fall/winter seasons be bad for the bonsai? What would be the result?

My plant is approx. 6-7 years old according to where i purchased it from, just an fyi. And like I said it has been previously styled in the Kengai style. Does anyone have any cool example for ideas regarding the kengai/ han-kengai styles, or how would you start styling my plant, I have a general Idea of how it will look but dont really know how to prune it in order to separate the sections such as in this picture, or how thin to prune.

last question: Currently the nights are really cold (I snowed like an inch yesterday and last night) so i have my plant inside even though its an outdoor species. how long should I wait until putting it outside? how long will it take for the roots to gain a firm enough hold that they will not be harmed by the freezing cold?

Ill be attaching some pictures of my recently re-repotted bonsai so you can see what im dealing with and suggest where/how to prune.

Thanks everyone and I look forward to your advice.

 

[Redwood Ryan]

Welcome!

Just wanted to warn you that this is an outdoor tree and should stay outdoors year round come spring. It's probably too far into winter to put it out now.

 

[MAbro515]

yeah I know its an outdoor tree, i recieved it in the winter though and repotted it in the winter so i didnt want to put it outside before the roots were more founded in their new home

 

[Dalmat]

Sit back, relax,you are at least a year away from any pruning and putting wire on that plant.
Winter repotting,indoor juniper is over the edge harm to that tree already.

 

[sorce]

MAbro515,

Are you into bonsai? Or was it just a gift?

Welcome to Crazy!

Sounds like your tree...which doesn't look to bad for one of these "mallsai".....may be on its way out......which is completely OK.
It is the fault of the retailers that sell us these....and shouldn't upset you or your gift giver.

For the record...I bought a dead one once!

That said....I'm gonna share a link with you to one of my posts. When I go to the Depot for material....I always walk by these "mallsai" to see what they are offing as bonsai. Last ones I saw were DEAD!
(anyone see the new ones, 2-3 inch pots...they look so cute!)

Anyway....these "mallsai" cost roughly 15-30 dollars. Have little trunks...and pots that'll Probly crack in a freeze....so I can't even say they're worth the pot!

I have a laugh.....and proceed outside to buy Procumbens Nana nursery stock..
Which at 1gallon, are at least twice the size, and at $5-10 , way way cheaper.
I call that a win win.....win!

So to kind of answer your questions.....
The trees in my link were purchased mostly when fall stock came in....a couple earlier..you can see what I did with some of them.
I may repot a couple in late spring early summer. But other than that, I'm not touching them this year.
Which will be difficult.....

Also note....this is not the best material to work with....it is however....a leap and bound forward....should you have to replace your gift, or catch the "bug" real bad!

http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/1-sorce-8-nanas-7-depots.20709/

There's a lot more experienced people here....with way better stuff than me...
But I'm the guy to help you get from here to there!

Happy Growing Broing!

Sorce

 

[DougB]

And that is right from the Sorce! Good info.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Question #1: When repotting my bonsai I noticed while trimming roots that there was a dense portion of roots/dirt in the center of the root ball that wasn't budging when i tried to spread what roots were there out. What is this and should I remove it because it causes my bonsai to not want to sit right in its pot; it makes the tree too tall for the pot causing it to have a mound above the soil. Im assuming its just the root ball.

Hard to say, where the roots join the trunk, it is called the "Nebari" normally we look for a nice spreading butress look to the junction. A well developed nebari should be significantly wider than the trunk, and taper to the trunk's diameter as you move upward, from the soil line. What I can see of yours, it looks fine. You can get a knot of encircling roots, trapped soil and whatever right below the base of the tree or 'nebari". In time, you can tease out this knot, but for now do nothing. You have already repotted this tree once this year. It will need to recover at least one full growing season, possibly 2, before you try to do anything with the roots again. So for now, leave the roots alone.

Question#2: when should I start pruning and wiring my plant? I would wait until summer 2017 or summer 2018, depending on whether or not you repot again in spring 2017. Junipers don't like having foliage worked on and roots worked on within 12 months of each activity. Most would say within a year, I use 12 months, because repotting in Dec 2015 and pruning in Summer 2016 is not giving the tree 12 months to recover and grow. By repotting in December 2015 or January 2016 you put on hold most other activities. Roots need the hormone regulation from growing tips of foliage to grow properly. Foliage needs sugars, nutrients and hormone signals from the roots to grow well. If you prune foliage and roots too close together neither will grow, because neither will be getting the right hormone chemical signals to do the growing. A tree not growing is in danger of death.

Question # 3: Would wiring be a good idea this soon after being repotted and with knowing that i would need to prune in the winter in order to do so efficiently? When you wire and bend a tree or branch, you will cause some damage to the cambium layer, and this reduces the flow of nutrients and sugars from the leaves to the roots. Also, it can reduce the flow of water & hormones to the foliage. Usually wiring, if you are careful, is not as stressful to the tree as heavy pruning or repotting, but it is a stress. Until you are confident in your juniper horticultural skills, I would say give the tree 12 months before you wire it, just as in answer 2. Sometime in 2017 is when I would wire your tree. (Only if you did not repot it again in 2017)

Question # 4: when is the soonest i should wire and prune in an expert's opinion. - same answer for your tree as in #2 & #3. "professionals and advanced growers" There are several good times to do pruning and wiring and often both activities are done at the same time. The books and internet might lead you believe that pruning and wiring happen together, each year, every year. In reality, trees are often prepared for this event by allowing them to grow without pruning or wiring for a number of years, sometimes 3 years to 10 years, maybe more, depending on plans for the tree. During this time the tree builds foliage, vigor and the strength needed to survive a serious "styling" session, where both pruning and wiring is done at once. Your tree is not ready. Some pruning is done just as maintenance every year, but this is relatively little, and on young trees, often not at all. You need to build foliage and branching for a couple years first.

Question# 5: would pruning in the fall/winter seasons be bad for the bonsai? What would be the result? You don't prune, or wire, unless there is a specific response you want out of your juniper. It is not done just because its time to do it. It is only done to encourage growth in the directions needed. Or wiring is done to change the shape of the plant. If the branch is in the same position after you put wire on, that piece of wire was not needed. Wiring can in theory be done anytime convenient. Best time is when tree is still growing, but not in the spring-early summer growth spurt. So for me in the Chicago-Milwaukee area, I normally would wire beginning August though maybe first week of November. But I would do all my wiring for the year for that tree, once, on one day during that time. You don't want to keep returning to the same branch and twist it one way, then twist it another - that treatment risks killing the branch by tearing the cambium. Your tree is young, wiring a little after August 2016 might be all I do to it until 2017. No pruning.

There are a couple windows of time where pruning can be done, generally late summer is when many prune their junipers. Pruning later in the year can cause problems, so consider off season pruning an advanced technique. When you prune will change the tree's response to the pruning. There is some reading you need to do before you tackle this. and your tree needs more foliage, so you have a while to read up.


Easier question first.
how long will it take for the roots to gain a firm enough hold that they will not be harmed by the freezing cold?
6 months minimum. Not possible to put outside for remainder of Jan-March 2016 winter. The cold will kill new roots. Freezing will kill new root tips trying to grow. For the next 6 to 12 months, because it was repotted, protect your tree from freezing.

Last question: Currently the nights are really cold (I snowed like an inch yesterday and last night) so i have my plant inside even though its an outdoor species. how long should I wait until putting it outside?

Acclimation to cold is a chemical process inside the tree. Cold tolerance take time, months to build, and is lost quickly when the tree is exposed to warm temperatures. Your profile says western Washington state. I will assume you are inland away from the coast but still west of the Cascades. Lots of micro-climates in that region, but I'll try to answer with your area in mind. A Juniper procumbens that is grown outdoors, and experiences sequentially cooler and colder nights, without any sudden cold snaps is hardy to somewhere around -25 F. But it needs to be stepped into these temperatures. If a week of warm autumn weather, say 60 F is followed by +5 F in less than 24 hours, serious freeze damage is very likely. It takes about 2 months to acclimate a tree to serious cold. You don't have time this winter. If you have a cool, but above freezing, unheated garage you can store your tree there. Ideal winter storage for this tree would be 32 to 40 F. Warmer than 40 F the tree may want to try to grow. Freezing will harm the freshly repotted roots.

J. procumbens is one of the more warmth tolerant junipers, if you don't have an unheated sun room or garage that stays 32-40 F, if you put this on a windowsill, next to the glass to get the cooling coming off the glass. You might be able to limp it through one winter this way. Its not ideal, but more than other Junipers, procumbens has a chance of surviving one winter on a windowsill.

Good luck.

 

[MAbro515]

Question #1: When repotting my bonsai I noticed while trimming roots that there was a dense portion of roots/dirt in the center of the root ball that wasn't budging when i tried to spread what roots were there out. What is this and should I remove it because it causes my bonsai to not want to sit right in its pot; it makes the tree too tall for the pot causing it to have a mound above the soil. Im assuming its just the root ball.

Hard to say, where the roots join the trunk, it is called the "Nebari" normally we look for a nice spreading butress look to the junction. A well developed nebari should be significantly wider than the trunk, and taper to the trunk's diameter as you move upward, from the soil line. What I can see of yours, it looks fine. You can get a knot of encircling roots, trapped soil and whatever right below the base of the tree or 'nebari". In time, you can tease out this knot, but for now do nothing. You have already repotted this tree once this year. It will need to recover at least one full growing season, possibly 2, before you try to do anything with the roots again. So for now, leave the roots alone.

Question#2: when should I start pruning and wiring my plant? I would wait until summer 2017 or summer 2018, depending on whether or not you repot again in spring 2017. Junipers don't like having foliage worked on and roots worked on within 12 months of each activity. Most would say within a year, I use 12 months, because repotting in Dec 2015 and pruning in Summer 2016 is not giving the tree 12 months to recover and grow. By repotting in December 2015 or January 2016 you put on hold most other activities. Roots need the hormone regulation from growing tips of foliage to grow properly. Foliage needs sugars, nutrients and hormone signals from the roots to grow well. If you prune foliage and roots too close together neither will grow, because neither will be getting the right hormone chemical signals to do the growing. A tree not growing is in danger of death.

Question # 3: Would wiring be a good idea this soon after being repotted and with knowing that i would need to prune in the winter in order to do so efficiently? When you wire and bend a tree or branch, you will cause some damage to the cambium layer, and this reduces the flow of nutrients and sugars from the leaves to the roots. Also, it can reduce the flow of water & hormones to the foliage. Usually wiring, if you are careful, is not as stressful to the tree as heavy pruning or repotting, but it is a stress. Until you are confident in your juniper horticultural skills, I would say give the tree 12 months before you wire it, just as in answer 2. Sometime in 2017 is when I would wire your tree. (Only if you did not repot it again in 2017)

Question # 4: when is the soonest i should wire and prune in an expert's opinion. - same answer for your tree as in #2 & #3. "professionals and advanced growers" There are several good times to do pruning and wiring and often both activities are done at the same time. The books and internet might lead you believe that pruning and wiring happen together, each year, every year. In reality, trees are often prepared for this event by allowing them to grow without pruning or wiring for a number of years, sometimes 3 years to 10 years, maybe more, depending on plans for the tree. During this time the tree builds foliage, vigor and the strength needed to survive a serious "styling" session, where both pruning and wiring is done at once. Your tree is not ready. Some pruning is done just as maintenance every year, but this is relatively little, and on young trees, often not at all. You need to build foliage and branching for a couple years first.

Question# 5: would pruning in the fall/winter seasons be bad for the bonsai? What would be the result? You don't prune, or wire, unless there is a specific response you want out of your juniper. It is not done just because its time to do it. It is only done to encourage growth in the directions needed. Or wiring is done to change the shape of the plant. If the branch is in the same position after you put wire on, that piece of wire was not needed. Wiring can in theory be done anytime convenient. Best time is when tree is still growing, but not in the spring-early summer growth spurt. So for me in the Chicago-Milwaukee area, I normally would wire beginning August though maybe first week of November. But I would do all my wiring for the year for that tree, once, on one day during that time. You don't want to keep returning to the same branch and twist it one way, then twist it another - that treatment risks killing the branch by tearing the cambium. Your tree is young, wiring a little after August 2016 might be all I do to it until 2017. No pruning.

There are a couple windows of time where pruning can be done, generally late summer is when many prune their junipers. Pruning later in the year can cause problems, so consider off season pruning an advanced technique. When you prune will change the tree's response to the pruning. There is some reading you need to do before you tackle this. and your tree needs more foliage, so you have a while to read up.


Easier question first.
how long will it take for the roots to gain a firm enough hold that they will not be harmed by the freezing cold?
6 months minimum. Not possible to put outside for remainder of Jan-March 2016 winter. The cold will kill new roots. Freezing will kill new root tips trying to grow. For the next 6 to 12 months, because it was repotted, protect your tree from freezing.

Last question: Currently the nights are really cold (I snowed like an inch yesterday and last night) so i have my plant inside even though its an outdoor species. how long should I wait until putting it outside?

Acclimation to cold is a chemical process inside the tree. Cold tolerance take time, months to build, and is lost quickly when the tree is exposed to warm temperatures. Your profile says western Washington state. I will assume you are inland away from the coast but still west of the Cascades. Lots of micro-climates in that region, but I'll try to answer with your area in mind. A Juniper procumbens that is grown outdoors, and experiences sequentially cooler and colder nights, without any sudden cold snaps is hardy to somewhere around -25 F. But it needs to be stepped into these temperatures. If a week of warm autumn weather, say 60 F is followed by +5 F in less than 24 hours, serious freeze damage is very likely. It takes about 2 months to acclimate a tree to serious cold. You don't have time this winter. If you have a cool, but above freezing, unheated garage you can store your tree there. Ideal winter storage for this tree would be 32 to 40 F. Warmer than 40 F the tree may want to try to grow. Freezing will harm the freshly repotted roots.

J. procumbens is one of the more warmth tolerant junipers, if you don't have an unheated sun room or garage that stays 32-40 F, if you put this on a windowsill, next to the glass to get the cooling coming off the glass. You might be able to limp it through one winter this way. Its not ideal, but more than other Junipers, procumbens has a chance of surviving one winter on a windowsill.

Good luck.

Thank you so much, all this info is extremely helpful and very much appreciated. do you know of any links to pages regarding my species and the certain details about them you could share?
Thanks again,
MAbro515

 

[MAbro515]

Question #1: When repotting my bonsai I noticed while trimming roots that there was a dense portion of roots/dirt in the center of the root ball that wasn't budging when i tried to spread what roots were there out. What is this and should I remove it because it causes my bonsai to not want to sit right in its pot; it makes the tree too tall for the pot causing it to have a mound above the soil. Im assuming its just the root ball.

Hard to say, where the roots join the trunk, it is called the "Nebari" normally we look for a nice spreading butress look to the junction. A well developed nebari should be significantly wider than the trunk, and taper to the trunk's diameter as you move upward, from the soil line. What I can see of yours, it looks fine. You can get a knot of encircling roots, trapped soil and whatever right below the base of the tree or 'nebari". In time, you can tease out this knot, but for now do nothing. You have already repotted this tree once this year. It will need to recover at least one full growing season, possibly 2, before you try to do anything with the roots again. So for now, leave the roots alone.

Question#2: when should I start pruning and wiring my plant? I would wait until summer 2017 or summer 2018, depending on whether or not you repot again in spring 2017. Junipers don't like having foliage worked on and roots worked on within 12 months of each activity. Most would say within a year, I use 12 months, because repotting in Dec 2015 and pruning in Summer 2016 is not giving the tree 12 months to recover and grow. By repotting in December 2015 or January 2016 you put on hold most other activities. Roots need the hormone regulation from growing tips of foliage to grow properly. Foliage needs sugars, nutrients and hormone signals from the roots to grow well. If you prune foliage and roots too close together neither will grow, because neither will be getting the right hormone chemical signals to do the growing. A tree not growing is in danger of death.

Question # 3: Would wiring be a good idea this soon after being repotted and with knowing that i would need to prune in the winter in order to do so efficiently? When you wire and bend a tree or branch, you will cause some damage to the cambium layer, and this reduces the flow of nutrients and sugars from the leaves to the roots. Also, it can reduce the flow of water & hormones to the foliage. Usually wiring, if you are careful, is not as stressful to the tree as heavy pruning or repotting, but it is a stress. Until you are confident in your juniper horticultural skills, I would say give the tree 12 months before you wire it, just as in answer 2. Sometime in 2017 is when I would wire your tree. (Only if you did not repot it again in 2017)

Question # 4: when is the soonest i should wire and prune in an expert's opinion. - same answer for your tree as in #2 & #3. "professionals and advanced growers" There are several good times to do pruning and wiring and often both activities are done at the same time. The books and internet might lead you believe that pruning and wiring happen together, each year, every year. In reality, trees are often prepared for this event by allowing them to grow without pruning or wiring for a number of years, sometimes 3 years to 10 years, maybe more, depending on plans for the tree. During this time the tree builds foliage, vigor and the strength needed to survive a serious "styling" session, where both pruning and wiring is done at once. Your tree is not ready. Some pruning is done just as maintenance every year, but this is relatively little, and on young trees, often not at all. You need to build foliage and branching for a couple years first.

Question# 5: would pruning in the fall/winter seasons be bad for the bonsai? What would be the result? You don't prune, or wire, unless there is a specific response you want out of your juniper. It is not done just because its time to do it. It is only done to encourage growth in the directions needed. Or wiring is done to change the shape of the plant. If the branch is in the same position after you put wire on, that piece of wire was not needed. Wiring can in theory be done anytime convenient. Best time is when tree is still growing, but not in the spring-early summer growth spurt. So for me in the Chicago-Milwaukee area, I normally would wire beginning August though maybe first week of November. But I would do all my wiring for the year for that tree, once, on one day during that time. You don't want to keep returning to the same branch and twist it one way, then twist it another - that treatment risks killing the branch by tearing the cambium. Your tree is young, wiring a little after August 2016 might be all I do to it until 2017. No pruning.

There are a couple windows of time where pruning can be done, generally late summer is when many prune their junipers. Pruning later in the year can cause problems, so consider off season pruning an advanced technique. When you prune will change the tree's response to the pruning. There is some reading you need to do before you tackle this. and your tree needs more foliage, so you have a while to read up.


Easier question first.
how long will it take for the roots to gain a firm enough hold that they will not be harmed by the freezing cold?
6 months minimum. Not possible to put outside for remainder of Jan-March 2016 winter. The cold will kill new roots. Freezing will kill new root tips trying to grow. For the next 6 to 12 months, because it was repotted, protect your tree from freezing.

Last question: Currently the nights are really cold (I snowed like an inch yesterday and last night) so i have my plant inside even though its an outdoor species. how long should I wait until putting it outside?

Acclimation to cold is a chemical process inside the tree. Cold tolerance take time, months to build, and is lost quickly when the tree is exposed to warm temperatures. Your profile says western Washington state. I will assume you are inland away from the coast but still west of the Cascades. Lots of micro-climates in that region, but I'll try to answer with your area in mind. A Juniper procumbens that is grown outdoors, and experiences sequentially cooler and colder nights, without any sudden cold snaps is hardy to somewhere around -25 F. But it needs to be stepped into these temperatures. If a week of warm autumn weather, say 60 F is followed by +5 F in less than 24 hours, serious freeze damage is very likely. It takes about 2 months to acclimate a tree to serious cold. You don't have time this winter. If you have a cool, but above freezing, unheated garage you can store your tree there. Ideal winter storage for this tree would be 32 to 40 F. Warmer than 40 F the tree may want to try to grow. Freezing will harm the freshly repotted roots.

J. procumbens is one of the more warmth tolerant junipers, if you don't have an unheated sun room or garage that stays 32-40 F, if you put this on a windowsill, next to the glass to get the cooling coming off the glass. You might be able to limp it through one winter this way. Its not ideal, but more than other Junipers, procumbens has a chance of surviving one winter on a windowsill.

Good luck.

If I put it in my garage to keep it cooler for the remainder of the winter will my plant suffer from lack of light, my garage isn't the best place for sunlight?

 

[sorce]

If I put it in my garage to keep it cooler for the remainder of the winter will my plant suffer from lack of light, my garage isn't the best place for sunlight?

This is one of those play it by ear situations. My guess....due to the twice repotted, and likely coming from a greenhouse situation....

Your plant is likely to start dying before going dormant at this point, which would be the reason for the cool.

It's trying to reestablish its root system now, and it's gonna need all the energy it can get.

Yes, you're supposed to keep them outside....but in this situation. Keeping it inside, out of dry air, and under as much light as you can give it, is Probly your only chance of Keeping it alive.

MAbro515, I like when you sign your name, MAbro515!

Sorce

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

You need a thermometer, to know if your garage is good for wintering any trees, this juniper included. If you can keep the tree below 40 F, but above 32 F, then the garage is good. If you don't have a place that cold, then you need the brightest indoor window spot possible. Temperatures below 40 F are cold enough that the metabolism of most trees is pretty near zero. So set a thermometer out in your garage and find out where it is temperature wise. Monitor your garage temperatures, early morning to get a feel of night time lows, and late afternoon or early evening to get a feel for daytime highs. Write down the temps and the outside temp at the same time. That way you will know how much warmer than outside your garage stays. I would say somewhere near 1/3 of people growing bonsai store their trees in a garage, it often is an ideal place to store many species of trees. So once you go through this exercise, you will know if you can use the garage for your other (future) bonsai. I keep some trees outside, on the ground, under my bonsai bench for the winter (they are all zone 4 hardy) and some of my trees in an unheated well house, where the temps really do hover between about 32 to 40 F. In the future, 2017 and beyond, you may be able to winter your juniper outside, as your climate is mild enough.

What @source said, he's right, maybe your best bet is the brightest location in front of a window possible in the house. You have a juniper that has been stressed. Keep it in a bright spot until you have a couple weeks of garage temperature data and good feel for how your garage temperatures run. If your garage is too warm, don't use it for your trees. Above 40 F, the tree's metabolism will be too high, and a dark garage would be like sticking it in a dark closet - a slow death.

 

[ghues]

Welcome.....you've got a lot of good advise above so I don't have much to add .......I'm sure most of us here can relate to your excitement about your first tree but "Grass hopper" you MUST learn and practice PATIENCE .............LOTS OF IT...................you may have already killed the tree by re-potting it twice so as Leo said leave it along and as Source advised.....if you think you can devote the time necessary to this hobby and your trees (like who will look after them when you go away?)....go out and buy some landscape material.
There are a number of clubs in western Washington so seek out the closet one and join it.......check out this link http://www.pnbca.com/ and you'll find a list of clubs in the PNW and contact info.........they are also hosting a big convention in October in Olympia which I would highly recommend you attend IF you are SERIOUS.
Cheers and good luck.
Graham

 

[Cypress187]

I voted the semicascade (just because it's more work and you will learn more)

 

[M. Frary]

I vote for informal upright. Crank that cascading branch up.

 

[aml1014]

I also vote informal upright, it'll teach you some wiring skills and it definitely is young enough to crank it around however you please.

Aaron

 

[MAbro515]

I vote for informal upright. Crank that cascading branch up.

I thought of doing that however, it's hard to see in the pictures, but there is a massive bend right above my trunk about 2-3" that I feel would harm the tree if I try to wire it to vigorously which may be needed to get the informal upright. A little mental picture painting for you... If you were to have roads intersecting at an X formation with a third road running vertically through the X in the middle, take a second and visualize... My trunk is angled roughly the same angle as lower right angle created by the lower right X leg and the vertical leg. Does that make sense? If you have any suggestions on how to transform that to informal upright let me know lol.

 

[MAbro515]

This is one of those play it by ear situations. My guess....due to the twice repotted, and likely coming from a greenhouse situation....

Your plant is likely to start dying before going dormant at this point, which would be the reason for the cool.

It's trying to reestablish its root system now, and it's gonna need all the energy it can get.

Yes, you're supposed to keep them outside....but in this situation. Keeping it inside, out of dry air, and under as much light as you can give it, is Probly your only chance of Keeping it alive.

MAbro515, I like when you sign your name, MAbro515!

Sorce

So I just purchased a small grow light that I was planning on using for my bonsai while indoors, do you recommend leaving it in the windowsill with the light on it or put it in a desk and situate the light over it so the light doesn't just go out the window?

Also how long does it normally take roots to testa lush themselves after being pruned and re potted?

 

[sorce]

The light won't just go out the winder.

If it's not ice drafty that would be your best place.....with the light...
Sunlight....plus grow light for 3 more hours in the morning.....and 4 more at night.....

normally

We can't even really speak normal....
We are only desperately trying to keep your tree alive.....!

Sorce

 

[sorce]

We can't even really speak normal....
We are only desperately trying to keep your tree alive.....!

More accurately....

This is more play it by ear....
Except nose, mouth, sight, feel, and that 6th sense, apparently only @Potawatomi13 is keen on!

To say....
Your juniper may grow mad roots!
Or it may die!

We can not tell!

Sorce

 

[sorce]

MaBro....

Got the ill communications....

MaBro......

Got the ill communications!

Sorce