Means you should get this tree outside where it belongs. Ume will not survive long inside as you are seeing. Not enough light, probably too much water in very bad soil. Plant is deciding it can't support the leaves it's putting out.
It has been very windy outside for the past week and freezing rain as well. The soil is a mix of peatmoss and crush rocks.
Hi,
My ume's new leaves are falling off (gently touching them or just falls off). Is this a sign of lack nutrients? Weak tree? I have a grow light on top of them.
See attached.
Thanks
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Yup, full sun for Ume down in N. GA and outside year round. Get it outside asap or it's done.Means you should get this tree outside where it belongs. Ume will not survive long inside as you are seeing. Not enough light, probably too much water in very bad soil. Plant is deciding it can't support the leaves it's putting out.
Full sun here too. It should be outside and in better soil. Mine dried out once, and the leaves withered from tips toward petioles. I suspect that your soil is causing the root tips to die, which has the same effect as drying out, since bad root tips can’t supply moisture to the leaves. You’re likely seeing the problems with trying to keep something alive that won’t thrive in your zone.
It is late to repot, however, you have to decide if you need an emergency repot to get it out of that soil.It's kind of late to repot now no? I'll leave it outside when I get home.
It is late to repot, however, you have to decide if you need an emergency repot to get it out of that soil.
That soil is a real problem. If you decide to repot, do it gently, don't sever any roots, gently wash the muck from the roots and gently put it back into the container (which you have cleaned out) and backfill with regular bonsai soil.
The key is to make sure you don't disturb the remaining roots too much.
If you decide not to repot, you will have to monitor the water VERY closely. Peat moss is hard to water, since if you let it dry too much, it becomes extremely difficult to re-wet. It can repel water once it dries out.
This tree cannot be kept inside. If you are outside its hardiness zones, find a place where it will remain cold-ish--preferably below 37 or so from December to March or so...
Peat moss is a very VERY bad soil ingredient. DON'T use it. Plain old regular bonsai soil is best. Akadama is OK if you want to got to the expense.I see. Thank you. What soil mix would recommend? akadama/peat/crushed rocks? Pure akadama?
Peat moss is a very VERY bad soil ingredient. DON'T use it. Plain old regular bonsai soil is best. Akadama is OK if you want to got to the expense.
I've bought soil from Meco Bonsai, which is no Superflybonsai. They make a good basic soil mix. I would NOT try to make your own soil for this tree. You should get some decent prepared bonsai soil to see what it looks like. At this point, you're mixing questionable ingredients and getting questionable results.
https://www.superflybonsai.com/coll...pumice-lava-and-akadama?variant=3709333274654
As was mentioned in various ways the root tips are staying wet, not being able to get air... That will result in root rot in extreme cases but that basic condition will cause leaf drop.
Peat moss is a very VERY bad soil ingredient. DON'T use it. Plain old regular bonsai soil is best. Akadama is OK if you want to got to the expense.
I've bought soil from Meco Bonsai, which is no Superflybonsai. They make a good basic soil mix. I would NOT try to make your own soil for this tree. You should get some decent prepared bonsai soil to see what it looks like. At this point, you're mixing questionable ingredients and getting questionable results.
https://www.superflybonsai.com/coll...pumice-lava-and-akadama?variant=3709333274654
I will repot them this weekend or tomorrow. I have a lot of akadama, kanuma, crush lava rocks, peat moss, pumice...I will mix the (1/2akadama, 1/4lava rocks and 1/4punmice and a lot of mycorrhizal fungi spore in the mix)..
Will probably place them in a shaded area and expose them to probably 6 hours of daylight and will monitor them for 2-3 weeks.
FWIW, the myc spores probably aren't worth the trouble. It won't stay in such a mix for long and if you're buying a prepared myc, it's about a 50 percent chance its the right kind. There are more than one. Best way to get the "right" myc in the soil is just let it develop naturally. It does over time.
Won't do much of anything for a deciduous tree. There are endo and ecto types of myc. Some trees use either, some use both. Some don't use it at all. Best way to get the "right" kind is wait a couple of months. It will show up on its own.The myco spores are labled for evergreens.
Won't do much of anything for a deciduous tree. There are endo and ecto types of myc. Some trees use either, some use both. Some don't use it at all. Best way to get the "right" kind is wait a couple of months. It will show up on its own.