New Japanese Maple, when to chop? And other inquiries... (Acer palmatum 'Shaina')

[Cypress]

So I picked this Acer palmatum 'Shaina' up at a nursery yesterday. I chose it since the trunk split relatively low, about 8" up. The 'Shaina' has comparitavely very small leaves and incredibly dense foliage so I thought it would be a great subject for my first Maple (the denser the foliage the more I can screw up!).

I am completely new to Bonsai and wanted to get everyone's opinion on a few questions I have, partly because I keep reading conflicting information...

1. When should I chop the trunk? I've read that for maples you should do it in early spring before the buds break, but then also read this is bad since the sap an leak out and cause dieback and that you should do it in autumn? Confused.

2. I want to do 2 initial chops, first chop the thicker of the two trunks at the trunk split since I figured leaving the thinner one would give a nicer taper, and second would like to chop that thinner trunk further up and use a smaller branch as a leader to provide even more taper. Which chop should I mike first?

3. What should I do for the time being? Would you suggest I plant it in the ground for this summer to thinken the trunk? And if so, should I trim any of the roots when I do that?

THANK YOU all!

Beautiful specimen:


Trunk split about 8 inches up trunk:


View from other side:


Nebari have some potential:

 

[Cypress]

Perhaps I could do an air layer just below where the trunk splits for a double trunk maple? Any thoughts on this?

 

[marcosolo]

Looks like a graft

and taking layers of some cultivars results in a sickly tree or, inevitably, a dead tree.....DON"T BUY GRAFTED TREES!!!!!! .....

Best thing to do is-

A.-Plant it in the ground, and it'll look pretty
B-cut the graft off and see if the rootstock will sprout...(if the root stock even has any potential, which it looks as though it does not)

live and learn

 

[Cypress]

and taking layers of some cultivars results in a sickly tree or, inevitably, a dead tree.....DON"T BUY GRAFTED TREES!!!!!! .....

Best thing to do is-

A.-Plant it in the ground, and it'll look pretty
B-cut the graft off and see if the rootstock will sprout...(if the root stock even has any potential, which it looks as though it does not)

live and learn

1. Just curious, so i can avoid it in the future, why does it look like a graft? Because the roots? The discolored areas on the bark are just from where a supporting stick was taped on, if that has anything to do with it.

2. Taking layers of some cultivars? Do you know how this cultivar fares with air layers or are you just making a vague statement?

 

[0soyoung]

Shaina is a dwarf cultivar of acer palmatum. You can grow it like a hedge - just keep trimming it to the shape you want. Work on 'the bones' (i.e., the branch structure) after the leaves fall.

Unless you want to either start with a twig or spend a small fortune, you will most likely find that all japanese maples are grafted. The distaste for grafts in bonsai is because the root stock usually will develop differently from the tree you are after - differences in diameter, coloration, and/or bark. Poorly done grafts are obvious.

Virtually every cultivar of JM will grow on their own roots, so you can always air layer the tree off its grafted roots whenever you wish. In many cases the tree will grow more vigorously in a grafted state, so you may want to wait until you've developed the trunk you desire before concerning yourself with removing it from the graft. However there is nothing at all to worry about if you cannot ever figure out where the graft union is - it will be obvious if it is a problem.

 

[marcosolo]

Shaina is a dwarf cultivar of acer palmatum. You can grow it like a hedge - just keep trimming it to the shape you want. Work on 'the bones' (i.e., the branch structure) after the leaves fall.

Unless you want to either start with a twig or spend a small fortune, you will most likely find that all japanese maples are grafted. The distaste for grafts in bonsai is because the root stock usually will develop differently from the tree you are after - differences in diameter, coloration, and/or bark. Poorly done grafts are obvious.

Virtually every cultivar of JM will grow on their own roots, so you can always air layer the tree off its grafted roots whenever you wish. In many cases the tree will grow more vigorously in a grafted state, so you may want to wait until you've developed the trunk you desire before concerning yourself with removing it from the graft. However there is nothing at all to worry about if you cannot ever figure out where the graft union is - it will be obvious if it is a problem.

The graft is apparent...Do you see the difference in girth right above the roots?(that's a graft)....Most cultivars not only grow more "vigorously" when grafted, but most last only a few years on their own root systems...The origin of said cultivar has everything to do with whether its self sustainable on it's own roots or isn't...Some cultivars are what is called a "witches broom's", which is a genetic mutant shoot on a otherwise normal tree of whatever species it sprouted from...Then some are actually mutant seedlings that show a desirable trait, differing from it's mother......The "witches brooms" normally do not root well from cutting or layer, 10-20% chance, whereas the cuttings and layers taken from desirable mutant seedlings have a higher percentage of fruitful propagation associated with these methods...I do not know which are which among the hundreds of Acer Palmatum varients and cultivars, but the research should be done when planning to work with a tree......

 

[Cypress]

Thanks for explaining marcosolo! That helped alot. I have discovered this cultivar is a 'witch's broom' type and am doing google searches to find out any specific info on if this cultivar is viable for layering/ air layering, but am having trouble finding any info. Do you know where I might find information on this, or point me in the right direction?

Really appreciate your input.

 

[marcosolo]

Thanks for explaining marcosolo! That helped alot. I have discovered this cultivar is a 'witch's broom' type and am doing google searches to find out any specific info on if this cultivar is viable for layering/ air layering, but am having trouble finding any info. Do you know where I might find information on this, or point me in the right direction?

Really appreciate your input.

Only one way to find out if no other source can be located...Just try the layer out on tree....I have heard with some japanese maple cultivars it may take up to two years for the layer to have substantial roots to support itself...Yours might be quicker than that, but I wouldn't know....Try it out.....But learning that this tree originated from a witch's broom probably precludes that it won't do well.....I've run into this same problem..I've wanted to work with non-grafted Acer Shir.-Mr.Sun material forever, but have never been successful with a layer or cuttings.....Some of the cultivars are just out of reach when it comes to Bonsai (if you, like I, can't stand the look of a graft).....My best advice if your wanting to work with cultivars of Asian Maples is to locate someone who specializes in them and ask if he has some seedlings with interesting traits....I haven't done this yet because my mind still can't grasp that it will take at least a decade before I have nice material to work with....Sigh

 

[marcosolo]

Oh, and that green tape you always see on Jap Maples, that's grafting tape....just a tid bit