New Japanese Maple

[Ris]

Finally I can share my new maple and with hopes of direction on styling.
I would of like to take them to kofu bonsai kai pre meeting but their so
heavy so I will repot soon.
If someone can help with a vert I will really appriciate it.

Rishi.

 

[Si Nguyen]

No virt needed. Just let them grow for now. In general, try not to chop the trunk twice in one year. Try to make the first chop in the best location then let it recover. If you change your mind and chop it again in a few weeks, it will kill or seriously weaken that trunk. At this point, maybe some of trunks are still too long , but it is not wise to chop them again unless you want to get rid of them completely.
Good luck.
Really nice material though! Good find!

 

[daygan]

So, you didn't actually say - are those your chops on the tops of those branches, or the nursery's? Are they recent, or from a previous year?

 

[JudyB]

Looks really big... and heavy. Nice trunk (s).

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Is the third photo of a different tree?

On the tree in the first 2 photos, consider removing the left trunk, as shown in the second photo and turning the tree so the front is then 90 degrees clockwise. The chop will be at the back, and it will create some great taper (you'll thank me in 5 years).

 

[Nybonsai12]

Base looks great on this one. Looking forward to seeing you develop it.

 

[Ris]

No virt needed. Just let them grow for now. In general, try not to chop the trunk twice in one year. Try to make the first chop in the best location then let it recover. If you change your mind and chop it again in a few weeks, it will kill or seriously weaken that trunk. At this point, maybe some of trunks are still too long , but it is not wise to chop them again unless you want to get rid of them completely.
Good luck.
Really nice material though! Good find!

Thanks Si, I just got those last Sunday and had to fit them in my car so tried my best not to
Cut short. Lets say the price I payed was highway robbery lol. Didn't want to go back for my truck and leave a
Minute for the owner to change price.
I have sealed the cuts for now but will cut next year lower.
Thanks.

 

[Ris]

Base looks great on this one. Looking forward to seeing you develop it.

Thanks, they are and cant wait to dig in to see what's under.

 

[Ris]

Is the third photo of a different tree?

On the tree in the first 2 photos, consider removing the left trunk, as shown in the second photo and turning the tree so the front is then 90 degrees clockwise. The chop will be at the back, and it will create some great taper (you'll thank me in 5 years).

You're right Brian, at first I couldn't pick a cut point so I just cut higher from were I would
Like the taper start keeping 1of the 2 trunks.

It is 2different trees.

 

[daygan]

Here's a simple plan you could use with this tree (starting only when it's ready to be chopped again, of course) This is just a basic outline, obviously. The final product would need a bit more ramification. Of course, it's just one of a multitude of directions you could take. Brian's suggestion was going to be my second option, which would of course give you the option of having a somewhat shorter tree and more exagerated taper. It looks like you have a great base to start with and a lot of options to choose from!

 

[Si Nguyen]

Thanks Si, I just got those last Sunday and had to fit them in my car so tried my best not to
Cut short. Lets say the price I payed was highway robbery lol. Didn't want to go back for my truck and leave a
Minute for the owner to change price.
I have sealed the cuts for now but will cut next year lower.
Thanks.

Well, if you had only just chopped them 3-4 days ago, then it is still safe to chop them again this week. If you need to lower any of the trunks, then do it now, before the sap starts to flow and build up near the top. Consider reducing the root ball now too. It they were my trees, I would bare root them now , and get them into a smaller pot. If you bare root now, use clean soil, like 100% pumice. Safest thing to use right now. In the future, once the tree is established, you can add akadama and peat and other components to the soil mix.
Good luck.

 

[berobinson82]

Is the third photo of a different tree?

On the tree in the first 2 photos, consider removing the left trunk, as shown in the second photo and turning the tree so the front is then 90 degrees clockwise. The chop will be at the back, and it will create some great taper (you'll thank me in 5 years).

Photoshop is hard. Also, I'm on the clock:

 

[Ris]

So, you didn't actually say - are those your chops on the tops of those branches, or the nursery's? Are they recent, or from a previous year?

Hi Daygan,
I made those cuts with a saw the owner had, I really didn't want to cut them
but had to. I felt the owner knew it would sell for more and I really didn't want to leave
to get my trunk to pickup the trees cause he didn't want to take the money if was going to come back... These trunks range from 4" to 6".
It will be growing free for this year though, but will try a cut healing process I
saw here on B nut.

 

[Ris]

Photoshop is hard. Also, I'm on the clock:

View attachment 30214

That's a nice plan but I have a different plan for this 1.
I will (in time) airlayer that V and start a new tapered apex as the
trunk don't show much taper with that selected top. Thanks for taking the
time to help with a direction for this tree.

 

[Ris]

Well, if you had only just chopped them 3-4 days ago, then it is still safe to chop them again this week. If you need to lower any of the trunks, then do it now, before the sap starts to flow and build up near the top. Consider reducing the root ball now too. It they were my trees, I would bare root them now , and get them into a smaller pot. If you bare root now, use clean soil, like 100% pumice. Safest thing to use right now. In the future, once the tree is established, you can add akadama and peat and other components to the soil mix.
Good luck.

Hello Si,
I have repotted them and placed in bonsai & training pot.
Didn't chop any of them only to see where they will bud out next.
Will post a picture later today...

Thanks for advising.

 

[Ris]

Hello All,

Just wanted to share another new find, only this 1 is biger than the others I have gotten.
I found this at a local nursery (already cut) just passing through on the way to costco lol.
It was in a 24" box and well over 150lbs the trunk is about 6" and cant wait till morning to
dig in to repot as the buds are just swelling. It has some die back on the uper branches, so some carving can be done later.

 

[Stan Kengai]

Be careful with this last one, with the scarring on the upper trunk and what looks to be die-back on the same side of the lower portion of the trunk (down to where the new green sprouts are coming out). What caused this? I got damage similar to this on one of my landscape maples (thankfully not to this scale) that was caused by a fungus that I was told was likely to have been brought by a boring insect. Damage like this might also come from root problems on that side of the trunk. If that's the case, what caused the root problem?

I would be leery about bringing this into my garden, and I would at least spray very heavily for both insects and fungus and keep it segregated from my other plants for at least 1 year. It could be something as minor as that side of the tree/planter facing south and the roots being burned/dried.

 

[Ris]

Be careful with this last one, with the scarring on the upper trunk and what looks to be die-back on the same side of the lower portion of the trunk (down to where the new green sprouts are coming out). What caused this? I got damage similar to this on one of my landscape maples (thankfully not to this scale) that was caused by a fungus that I was told was likely to have been brought by a boring insect. Damage like this might also come from root problems on that side of the trunk. If that's the case, what caused the root problem?

I would be leery about bringing this into my garden, and I would at least spray very heavily for both insects and fungus and keep it segregated from my other plants for at least 1 year. It could be something as minor as that side of the tree/planter facing south and the roots being burned/dried.

Am not sure what cause it the die back on those parts, but I have cleaned out the dead bark and didn't find a reason. I will spray for insects today and place alone like you advised, I remember when removing from its box
the bottom was well rotted out and soil was over moist with no drainage at all. May be a root issue? I have cut back hard on the roots so I'll see how out reacts.
Thanks for the info.

 

[Ris]

Am trying my hand at doing sketching for my projects.

 

[daygan]

My suggestion: avoid downward-angled branches. It's appropriate for conifers, but not so much for deciduous broad-leaf trees. The crown should probably be a bit fuller as well...