New JBP
- Thread starter bonsairxmd
- Start date
thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
Cool. Do you plan to keep it small, and what are your plans for it now?
sbarnhardt
Mame
Good Deal!!
Great!!
Where did you find it? I've been looking for those, as well as some pitch pine, but all I've been able to get so far have been small seedlings.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it progresses! Keep the pictures coming.
Great!!
Where did you find it? I've been looking for those, as well as some pitch pine, but all I've been able to get so far have been small seedlings.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it progresses! Keep the pictures coming.
bonsairxmd
Shohin
Thanks! I'll wire it this fall. I plan to keep it the same height.....I think. I'll do whatever the pine experts like BVF suggest. I'm very much in unfamiliar ground with any pine.
bonsairxmd
Shohin
Thanks. From House of Bonsai. Came with wet newspaper in Chinese (pretty sure) to keep the soil moist. Just does not seem right. Chinese instead of Japanese
(even though the art started in China) As a side note, I'm currently trying to learn the Japanese Kanji. Daunting to say the least!!! Made it through Hiragana and Katakana.
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sbarnhardt
Mame
Can you say glutton for punishment?? LOL Seriously, good luck!!
And thanks for the JBP source!!
bonsairxmd
Shohin
They sell on eBay and have a few more listed right now
Neli
Omono
For short you want to start ramification???? I would let it grow through summer...see how healthy it is...No decandling, and cut back in late winter all branches to the oldest needles that are healthy...I like tight ramification, early on.
How is the soil?
How is the soil?
Welcome to JBP! That one looks pretty good, and will be a great learner tree.
There's no rush, study up first.
With all respect to Neli, I know she studied in Japan, her approach is more radical and risky. I would take a more conservative approach since this is your first JBP.
I do suggest you read Brian's JBP book on his web page.
In a couple weeks, I would decandle to start to build ramification. That's also a good time to wire. JBP wire best with copper wire. If you don't have copper, you can use aluminum but it will be thicker and more unsightly. Jim Gremel makes the best copper wire.
Study up on decandling. This is the technique that makes short needles and increases ramification. I also suggest you obtain Boon's DVD series on JBP. Go to www.bonsaiboon.com. Follow what he does with his pines at the same time of the year.
JBP are the king of bonsai. Every bonsai hobbiest should have one!
There's no rush, study up first.
With all respect to Neli, I know she studied in Japan, her approach is more radical and risky. I would take a more conservative approach since this is your first JBP.
I do suggest you read Brian's JBP book on his web page.
In a couple weeks, I would decandle to start to build ramification. That's also a good time to wire. JBP wire best with copper wire. If you don't have copper, you can use aluminum but it will be thicker and more unsightly. Jim Gremel makes the best copper wire.
Study up on decandling. This is the technique that makes short needles and increases ramification. I also suggest you obtain Boon's DVD series on JBP. Go to www.bonsaiboon.com. Follow what he does with his pines at the same time of the year.
JBP are the king of bonsai. Every bonsai hobbiest should have one!
Welcome to JBP! That one looks pretty good, and will be a great learner tree.
There's no rush, study up first.
With all respect to Neli, I know she studied in Japan, her approach is more radical and risky. I would take a more conservative approach since this is your first JBP.
I do suggest you read Brian's JBP book on his web page.
In a couple weeks, I would decandle to start to build ramification. That's also a good time to wire. JBP wire best with copper wire. If you don't have copper, you can use aluminum but it will be thicker and more unsightly. Jim Gremel makes the best copper wire.
Study up on decandling. This is the technique that makes short needles and increases ramification. I also suggest you obtain Boon's DVD series on JBP. Go to www.bonsaiboon.com. Follow what he does with his pines at the same time of the year.
JBP are the king of bonsai. Every bonsai hobbiest should have one!
There's no rush, study up first.
With all respect to Neli, I know she studied in Japan, her approach is more radical and risky. I would take a more conservative approach since this is your first JBP.
I do suggest you read Brian's JBP book on his web page.
In a couple weeks, I would decandle to start to build ramification. That's also a good time to wire. JBP wire best with copper wire. If you don't have copper, you can use aluminum but it will be thicker and more unsightly. Jim Gremel makes the best copper wire.
Study up on decandling. This is the technique that makes short needles and increases ramification. I also suggest you obtain Boon's DVD series on JBP. Go to www.bonsaiboon.com. Follow what he does with his pines at the same time of the year.
JBP are the king of bonsai. Every bonsai hobbiest should have one!
Neli
Omono
Darling...I said dont decandle...now...you said decandle...now...Which is more radical?
I think it will be better to cut back in late winter to get as much budding as possible.
I read your posts very well and actually copy them all. He he he!
bonsairxmd
Shohin
Thanks Neli. The soil is probably a little too water retentive/organic (as was the soil with the Olive I got from them). I planned to repot in Boon's mix when the time comes. The tree does look really healthy now though
(House of Bonsai does enhance the green color when posting pictures on eBay just as an FYI for those that asked where it came from. I remember a similar thread asking about that with this seller in the recent past. I'm happy with the trees regardless though)
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bonsairxmd
Shohin
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Chad,
You're getting conflicting information. Neither is necessarily wrong, and my advise to you in our email exchange last week was more in line with Neli's...let it grow this summer without candle cutting, and prune (hard) and wire primary/secondary branches this fall. Next year, you will have shorter primary/secondary branches, upon which you can build ramification through candle cutting techniques.
If you follow Adair's course of action and candle cut now at this stage of development, you will end up with ramification out on the tips where you cut. That is fine if you are happy with the length if the current branches. I think you'll have a better tree long-term, if the primary branches are shorter, dividing closer to the trunk.
Based on Adair's reply and the fact that he knows pines, I have a hunch he'd look closer at the tree and agree with waiting until fall to start work.
You're getting conflicting information. Neither is necessarily wrong, and my advise to you in our email exchange last week was more in line with Neli's...let it grow this summer without candle cutting, and prune (hard) and wire primary/secondary branches this fall. Next year, you will have shorter primary/secondary branches, upon which you can build ramification through candle cutting techniques.
If you follow Adair's course of action and candle cut now at this stage of development, you will end up with ramification out on the tips where you cut. That is fine if you are happy with the length if the current branches. I think you'll have a better tree long-term, if the primary branches are shorter, dividing closer to the trunk.
Based on Adair's reply and the fact that he knows pines, I have a hunch he'd look closer at the tree and agree with waiting until fall to start work.
bonsairxmd
Shohin
Thanks Brian. My pictures I posted aren't that great either which does not help matters.
Neli
Omono
You can also enhance the green color without Photoshop. Just add a bit of epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)when You water it.
It is a small pine. So ramification needs to start as close as possible to the trunk...That is why I recommended a cut back.
It is a small pine. So ramification needs to start as close as possible to the trunk...That is why I recommended a cut back.
Neli
Omono
Sorry Brian,
I saw this after I posted...I agree 100%
bonsairxmd
Shohin
Brian is right on: if your goal is to stimulate backbuding on old wood, then waiting and cutting back hard is the way to go. Fertilize well to build strength.
Without having the tree in front of me, it's hard to say if it needs that treatment. Regular decandling, and wiring will also expose the old wood to the sun, and you'll get some backbuding as well as new adventious buds at the base of your current spring candles.
Here's the thing: the hard pruning that Brian and Neli are recommending relies on the tree pushing needle buds and old, long dormant adventious buds. This is highly stressful for the tree. You need to get it really healthy first. You said yourself that it wasn't as green as you would like.
On the other hand, doing a regular decandling in a couple weeks, while stressful, is not as stressful as the other technique. If you don't get as much back budding as you think you need, you could do the hard cut back next year.
I guess it comes down to whether you are more comfortable applying a little stress now, or a lot of stress later. And, whether you think it needs a lot of back budding.
I think you would be successful with either approach.
I am a student of Boon. I had a new JBP, and I asked Boon if I should do the cut back into needles, and he said not to because I would get a lot of needle buds, which are weaker. He prefers to work with the stronger adventitious buds. There is no right or wrong here. There are two ways to go about it. Both will work in the long run.
By the way, sorry about the double post earlier in the thread. I don't know why my iPhone did that.
Without having the tree in front of me, it's hard to say if it needs that treatment. Regular decandling, and wiring will also expose the old wood to the sun, and you'll get some backbuding as well as new adventious buds at the base of your current spring candles.
Here's the thing: the hard pruning that Brian and Neli are recommending relies on the tree pushing needle buds and old, long dormant adventious buds. This is highly stressful for the tree. You need to get it really healthy first. You said yourself that it wasn't as green as you would like.
On the other hand, doing a regular decandling in a couple weeks, while stressful, is not as stressful as the other technique. If you don't get as much back budding as you think you need, you could do the hard cut back next year.
I guess it comes down to whether you are more comfortable applying a little stress now, or a lot of stress later. And, whether you think it needs a lot of back budding.
I think you would be successful with either approach.
I am a student of Boon. I had a new JBP, and I asked Boon if I should do the cut back into needles, and he said not to because I would get a lot of needle buds, which are weaker. He prefers to work with the stronger adventitious buds. There is no right or wrong here. There are two ways to go about it. Both will work in the long run.
By the way, sorry about the double post earlier in the thread. I don't know why my iPhone did that.
Jason_mazzy
Chumono
When we use the word "fall" when are u indicating we do this hard cut?
