New Trident

dkraft81

Shohin
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I thought I would share a new tree that I recently got from Lotus Bonsai Nursery. This tree reminds me of an old oak tree, and thats where I'll be taking it in the future. Sorry about the sideways pictures, new phone.
 

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That middle trunk does NOTHING for the tree. Otherwise, great prospect.
 
Check how it looks between the last pic and the first. You might have a better front somewhere there (if you want to keep all the main branches).
 
The third pic seems like a natural front for it. Will be interesting to see where you go with it.
Thanks for taking the time to share it.
 
I'm looking forward to watching it's progress! This one has a lot of character. :)
 
I like the three trunks...when developed this should look very much like a real tree (naturalistic if you must). I agree with Dario that there might be a nice front between pics 4 and 1...something where the three trunks remain distinct with no or minimal crossing. Maybe you can post a few more photos from different viewpoints?

Chris
 
I reall like it and prefer the 3 trunks as well. I think the uro looks really nice and removing the middle trunk will mess that up. Thanks for sharing!
 
Thanks guys, for sharing your thoughts. I'll try to get some more pictures of different angles tomorrow. I do know that I dont care a whole lot for the branch growing back towards the main line of the trunk on the right sub trunk, other than that though I like the three trunk look. Unfortunately pictures dont show all of the character of this tree.

here are a few from today that I didnt upload earlier. I was standing over a pile of firewood I've beenotoo lazy to move this winter.
 

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I think three trunks works, as well. What the trunks are lacking is taper and secondary branching, but this can be remedied by letting the tree grow out a bit and be a bit taller and twiggier. It should be fun to work with. Good luck.

Dave
 
I agree with Judy, the third picture looks like a perfect front to me. How tall is it now?

ed
 
I'm curious about the hole between the two trunks. Were they originally one trunk and then split? What caused the hole?

On a more practical note, does the hole need to be filled so water doesn't collect and rotten from within?
 
I'm curious about the hole between the two trunks. Were they originally one trunk and then split? What caused the hole?

On a more practical note, does the hole need to be filled so water doesn't collect and rotten from within?
I too worry about the uro. I would keep the 3 trunks, but either fill the void with 2part epoxy putty, or create a drain via drill or carving to help forestall rot from within.
I think you should be able to create a nice believable bonsai with that piece. Thanks-
 
I'm curious about the hole between the two trunks. Were they originally one trunk and then split? What caused the hole?

On a more practical note, does the hole need to be filled so water doesn't collect and rotten from within?

the hole is where the original trunk chop occurred. 2 leads developed resulting in the 2 new trunks you see. the old chop, taken straight across, did not heal over before the dead wood rotted out, leaving the hole. its very common. manipulation of the edge of the scar tissue, coupled with putty, would have avoided the rot, in all likelihood. however, rot is natural, and makes the tree more representative of what you'd find in nature.

the hole does not need to be filled. dead wood inside the tree will continue to rot as long as water continues to get in there. its kind of cool though, and be used to create an awesome feature of the tree.

the hole can be filled. if so, I'd clean out the soft/rotten wood. i would fill the void with patch cement. pack it tight and make a nice transition at the opening. then reinjure the edge of the live wood at the opening, and cover with grey cut putty to stimulate growth and protect from water. periodically remove the putty, reinjure and replace with fresh putty. simple as that, if you want to get rid of the feature.
 
I agree 100% with Don.

Rather than hide it, I will showcase that uro if this is mine.
 
I think that hole is the best part of the tree, you should consider highlighting it when you do branch placement.

With a tree like this, that is a natural style, having these damaged and healed over parts gives the whole tree a believability factor that no amount of styling can accomplish.
 
I was able to grab some photos this morning changing the angle slightly each time where everyone was suggesting. I would definitely agree that I missed the best front. That being said, this tree was shipped bare root and was potted only two days ago in the current temporary pot. Since the tree is dormant and was just potted are there any risks associated with fixing the potting angle now?
 

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I prefer the 1st pic as front. You might have to remove the lowest left and right (small) branches though. Maybe tilt the tree to the right a bit (when you repot) so you bury that root bulge a bit and make it slowly disappear into the soil.
 

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the hole is where the original trunk chop occurred. 2 leads developed resulting in the 2 new trunks you see. the old chop, taken straight across, did not heal over before the dead wood rotted out, leaving the hole. its very common. manipulation of the edge of the scar tissue, coupled with putty, would have avoided the rot, in all likelihood. however, rot is natural, and makes the tree more representative of what you'd find in nature.

the hole does not need to be filled. dead wood inside the tree will continue to rot as long as water continues to get in there. its kind of cool though, and be used to create an awesome feature of the tree.

the hole can be filled. if so, I'd clean out the soft/rotten wood. i would fill the void with patch cement. pack it tight and make a nice transition at the opening. then reinjure the edge of the live wood at the opening, and cover with grey cut putty to stimulate growth and protect from water. periodically remove the putty, reinjure and replace with fresh putty. simple as that, if you want to get rid of the feature.

The hollow in the tree is what drew me to the tree in the first place, I definitely don't have any plans to fill the hole. I was thinking there will most likely be a need to carve, or create a drain for the water. I was thinking of carving the bottom of the bottom of callous a little farther down to create a drain. I also plained on treating the hollow with a wood hardener to help resist the rotting. Any thoughts from you guys is appreciated.
 
I prefer the 1st pic as front. You might have to remove the lowest left and right (small) branches though. Maybe tilt the tree to the right a bit (when you repot) so you bury that root bulge a bit and make it slowly disappear into the soil.

I agree, I was trying to hide that as much as possible but I misjudged the depth it was at when I wired it in.
 
The hollow in the tree is what drew me to the tree in the first place, I definitely don't have any plans to fill the hole. I was thinking there will most likely be a need to carve, or create a drain for the water. I was thinking of carving the bottom of the bottom of callous a little farther down to create a drain. I also plained on treating the hollow with a wood hardener to help resist the rotting. Any thoughts from you guys is appreciated.

I think carving to open up the uro and allow it to drain is fine and will add character to the trunk. As far as wood hardener goes, I personally wouldn't. Carving out the uro now and allowing for drainage will definitely slow down any rot, but eventually (like decades from now), the trunk will probably rot out throught the center...this should have no bearing on the health of the tree as many older deciduous trees in the landscape continue to grow on and be healthy despite having hollow trunks.
 
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