Newbie air layer question

[tolstoy]

I have a few Japanese cherry trees on the edge of my property that I want to take an air layer from an existing branches. Both of these cherries are unwieldy and overgrown (one is hidden in large border of scrub). As such, they have some very long, thick branches.

So my question is this, when the air layer has rooted and is ready for removal and potting, there is no way I can pot the whole limb. Is it Ok to also cut the top of the air layer so that I have just a trunk with roots, or will this put too much stress on the cutting?

If this is too much stress for the cutting, should I prune the limbs back to more a manageable size now, before spring, or what?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Dav4]

Newly separated layers rely on existing foliage to generate energy to fuel the growth of the new roots. Chopping the branch and removing the foliage may retard further root growth, which may or may not be an issue going forward. However, there is the possibility the new tree may push new growth after the chop, which may be fine if it happens with enough time left in the growing season for the new growth to harden off...if not, it will be damaged/killed by the first frost which will weaken the tree further or even kill it. Bottom line, in my opinion, it sort of a crap shoot. If you go forward with this, I'd love to hear how it works out.

 

[KennedyMarx]

Why not cut one back now and then cut the other back after you layer them? Would be a good experiment.

 

[tolstoy]

Why not cut one back now and then cut the other back after you layer them? Would be a good experiment.

Not a bad idea. One of these trees is buried from view in an overgrown border between my property and a golf course/country club. It would be very easy to experiment with as there are ample places to try layering. I don't think anyone even knows this tree exists.

 

[edprocoat]

Not a bad idea. One of these trees is buried from view in an overgrown border between my property and a golf course/country club. It would be very easy to experiment with as there are ample places to try layering. I don't think anyone even knows this tree exists.

Well, then that makes it ok then ...



ed

 

[tolstoy]

Well, then that makes it ok then ...



ed

Well I like to think of myself as saving it from the poison ivy, sticker bushes and very invasive wild grape vine that is currently completely obscuring this thing and all the other landscaping that borders my backyard.

 

[Dirty Nails]

If there is no hurry then plan your future tree and make an appropriate chop (s) in spring 2015 the do the layer in spring 2016.

 

[sorce]

Tol,
A few thoughts.

An a/l is a great way to get a good start with the low branching we seek.

If you chop the top and there are no branches or leaves, you will have made the layer too low.

You should get some low branching by placing it higher.

I would chop it in early spring, or now if you have time. And start the layer early summer.

There is a recent post about failed cherry layers, check that for no-no's.

Put a bright girdle wire on some now, you may get a head start with fall and spring trunk thickening.

You could chop it at removal time for balance, but leave foilage.

Good luck!

Sorce

 

[larlamonde]

Newly separated layers rely on existing foliage to generate energy to fuel the growth of the new roots. Chopping the branch and removing the foliage may retard further root growth, which may or may not be an issue going forward. However, there is the possibility the new tree may push new growth after the chop, which may be fine if it happens with enough time left in the growing season for the new growth to harden off...if not, it will be damaged/killed by the first frost which will weaken the tree further or even kill it. Bottom line, in my opinion, it sort of a crap shoot. If you go forward with this, I'd love to hear how it works out.

Hey Dave4 (sorry to jump in here) but I just took a layer on a pine last week. Based on what you said should I keep it in full sun or mostly shade for the aftercare.

 

[tolstoy]

Tol,
A few thoughts.

An a/l is a great way to get a good start with the low branching we seek.

If you chop the top and there are no branches or leaves, you will have made the layer too low.

You should get some low branching by placing it higher.

I would chop it in early spring, or now if you have time. And start the layer early summer.

There is a recent post about failed cherry layers, check that for no-no's.

Put a bright girdle wire on some now, you may get a head start with fall and spring trunk thickening.

You could chop it at removal time for balance, but leave foilage.

Good luck!

Sorce

For one tree, I'm planning on taking the layer from branches, not an existing trunk. This is why I fear some of them will be overly large/long and un-weildy after I remove the layer. Most of the foliage for these is waaaaaaaay out in the end of the limbs, so after I remove the layer, I'll just have a giant branch.

I have a few branches that need to be cut back or removed because they have grown out into my driveway. Some of these are 3 - 4 inches thick. So I was hoping to get a nice thick layer from on of these.

I believe this is a kwanzan cherry. Not sure it's age. But I'm guessing, based on my property's history according to my 90 year neighbor, it's much older than I believe a lot of these get.

If I am doing anything wrong in this process, like layering from a horizontal limb, please let me know. I am a complete newb at this stuff.

Here is a pic of the tree.

 

[Dav4]

Hey Dave4 (sorry to jump in here) but I just took a layer on a pine last week. Based on what you said should I keep it in full sun or mostly shade for the aftercare.

If you have enough roots present to safely separate, I wouldn't hesitate to give it full sun. Besides, we are almost at the autumnal equinox so the sun is much less intense in PA then it was just a month ago.

 

[lordy]

Is there a reason you couldnt separate the layer and plant it in the ground for a while? This would increase chances it makes it through winter, would be able to be stabilized by mechanical means, and could help it to bud lower than where the current foliage is now.
Just a thought.

 

[DhD47]

Why not later the branch the first year were you want to cut down the beach to for the second AL next year. This will not only give you more chances of success it will give you experience with the tree.

DhD

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Chop first, later second. At least, that is what should get you the BEST results. Chop first to what you want to have training in a pot and let it recover while it is still connected to strong roots.

 

[sorce]

Hey!

Id want to al that too!

The only problem with a horizontal branch is where the roots go. Just a bit more of a mess to sort out later.

You could pull it up with a rope, and even better if you can get it to sit above the others, in full sun, with the al spot in the shade.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

Hey!

Id want to al that too!

The only problem with a horizontal branch is where the roots go. Just a bit more of a mess to sort out later.

You could pull it up with a rope, and even better if you can get it to sit above the others, in full sun, with the al spot in the shade.

Sorce

Oops lil late huh?