Newly collected poppin' buds

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Hey guys,
My tree (hornbeam?) I collected a month ago is swelling his buds. The first few are already popping leaves out.. I've put it in de barn the day before yesterday, after it was in my grow bed for about three weeks. We got 9 bft predicted, so I wanted to protect it better.
How can I stop/prevent this bud swelling/popping?
And will it kill the tree if it doesn't stop?

Ty in advance
 

Big foot titties?

I don't know Tent!
Cold and dark will be the best....

I've had early spring buds start....and then stop for awhile.

I think you'll be alright....the trees know things we don't!

Sorce
 
I don't know what kind of winter you have there, but if your weather is cold and now you are going to have a freeze, then you could be in trouble. If the buds are just swelling, then keeping it cold and dark may work, I've used ice blocks on the roots to slow some of this down this year on my fast starters. But if you have actual leaves, it may be too late.
 
Takes three to four years to kill a tree needing winter's rest in our Tropical Climate.

So Maarten, just ask around, the farmers in your area will have answers.

Chances are the cold will kill the buds, but think if this were a tree, it would lose branchlets and regrow new ones.
With a bonsai, this is a bit more serious, if it has a worked out design.
You may have to roll with the blow.

Spoken to J. Norbury about this ?
Take care.
Anthony
 
Thanks guys, so no worries then. I'll see if I can place it anywhere darker, but if not, I hope it will survive. Another hornbeam which was collected february 2015 pushed out leaves last October, so we'll see how it works out. We'll have a freeze in less than a week, but we've got strong eastern winds which are very cold (from russia/poland) right now, so this one will stay inside the barn.

Design is not worked out yet, but it is already super ramificated with great bones, so I guess it won't take long to produce some design.
Not spoken to mr Norbury yet, but if I find time today, I'll pm him. Thanks for the tip!

Take care all!
 
Had already read the first two pages, didn't know some much has accumulated, thanks for the read! It's a hell of a winter now. The roses, bulbs, my quince, hornbeams, buddleias and prunus all think it's spring.. The big acer stump in the garden has not even thought about going dormant..
We'll see how this turns out I guess..
 
Beaufort, smartasses. It's wind velocity.
What do they even learn in school at the other side of the pond?

Lol....

The only Beaufort I ever knew was that son of a bitch who always snitched on us for smoking in the bathroom!

Sounds like a castle where a princess locks up all her boyfriends!

We learn how to use oil, play video games, and raise are kids like dumbasses.

Sorce
 
Lol, that's exactly what I've been thinking all these years! Both the castle and the education. ;)
Look up the Bastille, it was the fort where the king of France locked up his boyfriends. Given the era and nationality, I's say it's exactly
a castle where a princess locks up all her boyfriends!

Just kidding, no offense to you French peepz. No need for surrenderi... Aww d'ôh, too late!
 
Thanks guys, so no worries then. I'll see if I can place it anywhere darker, but if not, I hope it will survive. Another hornbeam which was collected february 2015 pushed out leaves last October, so we'll see how it works out. We'll have a freeze in less than a week, but we've got strong eastern winds which are very cold (from russia/poland) right now, so this one will stay inside the barn.

Design is not worked out yet, but it is already super ramificated with great bones, so I guess it won't take long to produce some design.
Not spoken to mr Norbury yet, but if I find time today, I'll pm him. Thanks for the tip!

Take care all!

Dormancy has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the amount of light a tree gets while it's not in leaf. A tree's light receptors are its leaves. Without them, it has no way to tell if its light or dark outside.

Dormancy is terminated according to soil temperature, not light. Putting the tree in a dark place will do nothing to stop it from pushing new leaves.

If your tree has already pushed leaves, it HAS LOST ITS ABILITY TO WITHSTAND FREEZES. Once leaves (and this includes leaf buds where only edges of leaves are showing) are present, the tree has committed its resources to active growth and abandon its winter protections.

It will die if it's roots are exposed to freezing temps once leaves have started.

If there are no leaves, you have to get the roots cooler than 40 degrees and keep them below that to prevent early leaf break.
 
Dormancy has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the amount of light a tree gets while it's not in leaf. A tree's light receptors are its leaves. Without them, it has no way to tell if its light or dark outside.

Dormancy is terminated according to soil temperature, not light. Putting the tree in a dark place will do nothing to stop it from pushing new leaves.

If your tree has already pushed leaves, it HAS LOST ITS ABILITY TO WITHSTAND FREEZES. Once leaves (and this includes leaf buds where only edges of leaves are showing) are present, the tree has committed its resources to active growth and abandon its winter protections.

It will die if it's roots are exposed to freezing temps once leaves have started.

If there are no leaves, you have to get the roots cooler than 40 degrees and keep them below that to prevent early leaf break.

Although I already knew about the leaf and dormancy/temp stuff I thought keeping it darker would prevent more buds from popping. After your reply I realize that was not very smart. (What do we even learn in school here?)
Many thanks for replying, it is very educational hanging out with you guys!
We got a little wet snow last night, so I hope it's now cold enough to stay dormant. Outside it prolly is, now it better be too in de barn.

Ty again!
 
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