Noob seeking advice on Kashima

Johnnyd

Shohin
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Buds are starting to break and I'm planning to repot this Kashima into an Anderson flat . I am going to remove the 2 lowest branches and possibly more. My question is should I leave some top branches in tact to improve sap flow? I'm happy with the trunk size. Looking to develop a small to medium sized informal upright bonsai.
 

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rodeolthr

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Are you absolutely set on removing those branches? It seems that it might lend to the appearance of a malformed tree. Perhaps start be simply reducing all of the branches to induce back-budding?
Just my thoughts on how I would approach this tree.
Kevin
 

Johnnyd

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Do think these buds would pop if I pruned at the line.
 

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sorce

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I feel like a wish to conform this to a "style" is severely impairing your ability to "style" it appropriately.

My one move would be cutting off that straight trunk extension...not the branches with movement and good forks...

Just curious as to your future vision with this...

Here's why...
In sales, (greedy dishonest sales) you sell what is available to make a buck. You dont recommend stuff you don't have..

Thats the spirit behind these thoughts....

What you "have today" here....
Is a straight trunk with 2 good forks that fork to 2 good forks....
That is YEARS of appropriate development you aim to cut off...
You likely paid for that development.

The tree you will have AFTER THIS MOVE...

a straight trunk trident with little taper and not much appropriate branching....

They are a dime a dozen...amd can be what is available to you tomorrow...

So use what has been built well on this tree and is available to you today.

IMO.

Sorce
 

Johnnyd

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I feel like a wish to conform this to a "style" is severely impairing your ability to "style" it appropriately.

My one move would be cutting off that straight trunk extension...not the branches with movement and good forks...

Just curious as to your future vision with this...

Here's why...
In sales, (greedy dishonest sales) you sell what is available to make a buck. You dont recommend stuff you don't have..

Thats the spirit behind these thoughts....

What you "have today" here....
Is a straight trunk with 2 good forks that fork to 2 good forks....
That is YEARS of appropriate development you aim to cut off...
You likely paid for that development.

The tree you will have AFTER THIS MOVE...

a straight trunk trident with little taper and not much appropriate branching....

They are a dime a dozen...amd can be what is available to you tomorrow...

So use what has been built well on this tree and is available to you today.

IMO.

Sorce
The
I feel like a wish to conform this to a "style" is severely impairing your ability to "style" it appropriately.

My one move would be cutting off that straight trunk extension...not the branches with movement and good forks...

Just curious as to your future vision with this...

Here's why...
In sales, (greedy dishonest sales) you sell what is available to make a buck. You dont recommend stuff you don't have..

Thats the spirit behind these thoughts....

What you "have today" here....
Is a straight trunk with 2 good forks that fork to 2 good forks....
That is YEARS of appropriate development you aim to cut off...
You likely paid for that development.

The tree you will have AFTER THIS MOVE...

a straight trunk trident with little taper and not much appropriate branching....

They are a dime a dozen...amd can be what is available to you tomorrow...

So use what has been built well on this tree and is available to you today.

IMO.

Sorce
I wanted to keep the trunk because I see some curve appeal. I was contemplating starting with a clean slate. (Remove all branches) I was unsure if this would effect sap flow so I left some high branches. This was a nursery plant. I just root pruned it. It was very root bound. I am hoping for a bud to pop on the 1st branch and wire it more horizontal.
 

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LanceMac10

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I was going to say there is nothing wrong with growing a plant for a season or two so you can become accustomed to it's needs and habits.......

Honestly, your tree will be built from the first 4-5 inches.
 

Johnnyd

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I see your point. So if I get new growth where I need it. Should I chop again in August or wait till next spring?
 

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Japonicus

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Pretty bonsai soil

I liked the 1st branch throwing off in that curve.
I'm with Sorce, Kevin and Leo on this one...where'd they go? LOL.

Did you make any attempts at layering the removed lower strong branch?
That would've been an excellent layered tree ;). Now, if I can learn to layer...
I will put my $$ where my mouth is. I have some study subjects ordered. Poor girls.
 

Johnnyd

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Pretty bonsai soil

I liked the 1st branch throwing off in that curve.
I'm with Sorce, Kevin and Leo on this one...where'd they go? LOL.

Did you make any attempts at layering the removed lower strong branch?
That would've been an excellent layered tree ;). Now, if I can learn to layer...
I will put my $$ where my mouth is. I have some study subjects ordered. Poor girls.
I did take several cutting and placed them in perlite with bottom heat. Bit of clonex.
I like the small leaves on this maple and did not want to lose it.
I'm also planning a few airlayers this year. Not much success last year. But I think I know what I did wrong last year. (Removing it too soon) Going to take another swing.
 

Johnnyd

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Update on my chop. I had a bit of tunnel vision on this one. I could only see a myogi for this tree. Lately I have tried to improve the shape on the scar in front by making it into an oval.(previous circle)20180805_091806.jpg20180805_091322.jpg20180805_091156.jpg20180805_091152.jpg20180805_085104.jpg I wired up a new leader and wired down possible continuations on 1st branch. I'm not sure which will work for the 1st branch. There are several shoots bunched close to the trunk and a few further out toward the end of the chop on the 1st branch. I am not planning on removing any redundant growth this season for fear or loosing health. I did notice that the leaf size has increased a great deal since the chop and heavy fertilizing. Hopefully it will return to normal small kashima leaves.
 

Microscopic

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1533477633756.png
This is my third growing season and I'm still quite the noob. But from what info I gathered, Always best to work from the ground up.

From your pic, the right side of the nebari doesn't flare out much. Might want to address that first now when still young. Nebari is the hardest and most tedious issue to deal with from what little I know.
 

Johnnyd

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View attachment 204420
This is my third growing season and I'm still quite the noob. But from what info I gathered, Always best to work from the ground up.

From your pic, the right side of the nebari doesn't flare out much. Might want to address that first now when still young. Nebari is the hardest and most tedious issue to deal with from what little I know.
I agree with you. I am seriously considering the ebihari method. Last season it was in a nursery pot so maybe this spring.
 

Johnnyd

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This is my third growing season and I'm still quite the noob. But from what info I gathered, Always best to work from the ground up.

From your pic, the right side of the nebari doesn't flare out much. Might want to address that first now when still young. Nebari is the hardest and most tedious issue to deal with from what little I know.
I found this on another thread for fixing the nebari on a hornbeam. Maybe I'll try it on my maple.
https://bonsai-south.com/bad-roots-or-no-roots-how-to-make-your-own/
 

Johnnyd

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Repoted on the bottom of an 17 inch Anderson flat instead of screwing to a board and added some approach root grafts on the flat side of the nebari. Still trying to figure out design aspects. I got some good advice at my club and here. 20190313_124647.jpg20190409_142100.jpg20190409_142049.jpg20190409_142152.jpg20190409_142038.jpg
 
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Johnnyd

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Update :
Been trying to figure out what to do about the knob . It had a small branch at the end that I wanted to keep.(by the arrow) Maybe if I carve it down now while it's in grow out mode will help.
Two of the three root grafts attached. I'm still looking to make a smaller tree about 12 to 15 inches. Screenshot_20200120-174616_QuickPic.jpg20191227_091441.jpg
 

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