Old import JBP rehab project

misfit11

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Great stuff, Marky! I really appreciate your thorough documentation and pictures of your work.
Looks like you do your scion grafts similar to how we do them out here with the Parafilm. I haven’t seen the cut paste to seal the graft site, though. Does that work pretty well? I think the method people are using is wrapping the graft site in parafilm then cinching it down tight with light gauge wire. I’ve done it with Kathy Shaner and she used raffia.
Great tree, BTW. He’s a monster! I only have one big one. More than I care to deal with. I definitely like looking at the big ones though.

Cory
 

markyscott

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Great stuff, Marky! I really appreciate your thorough documentation and pictures of your work.
Looks like you do your scion grafts similar to how we do them out here with the Parafilm. I haven’t seen the cut paste to seal the graft site, though. Does that work pretty well? I think the method people are using is wrapping the graft site in parafilm then cinching it down tight with light gauge wire. I’ve done it with Kathy Shaner and she used raffia.
Great tree, BTW. He’s a monster! I only have one big one. More than I care to deal with. I definitely like looking at the big ones though.

Cory

Hi Cory. I like to use Buddy tape, not parafilm. I use a grafting tape to secure the scion at the grafting location. The cut paste is just an added layer of precaution to keep the scion from drying out too quickly and to limit the amount of water getting into the graft union. Its just the way i was taught - no idea if it improves success rate.
S
 

Carol 83

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I'll never have the sames species of trees as those you work on and certainly none so large, but you documenting the process and each step is very educational and I have learned things that will help me especially with repotting. Thanks for taking the time to document your work.
 

markyscott

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another good thread @markyscott thanks for taking so many photos and sharing your process.
I'll never have the sames species of trees as those you work on and certainly none so large, but you documenting the process and each step is very educational and I have learned things that will help me especially with repotting. Thanks for taking the time to document your work.
Thank you both. I’m glad you get something out of them.

S
 

markyscott

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Decandling season - before and after with a lemonade delivery for intermission. Generally I wouldn’t graft, repot and decandle in one season. But based on the growth, i think it’s strong enough for the procedure.

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markyscott

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I let the tree grow all year without decandling. It grew extremely strong - candles are extending for a second flush (although they’ll stall this winter for sure and restart in spring). Just thinning and needle pulling this time.8443DBEA-9D73-4EE2-9ABC-8504601055A3.jpegCCA31FF0-B0A7-4387-BA8E-CCDC74D95555.jpeg
 

markyscott

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I use a fertilizer product called “Microlife”. They have a humate product (0-0-4) that I mix 50-50 with their 8-4-6 product. Here’s why - the mycorrhizal fungi has completely colonized the pot and the root growth has raised the soil in the pot.

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It’s getting difficult to water because of the root growth and the fungi colony. I removed the top soil in the following picture - the gray tones in this picture is all mycorrhiza that I exposed:
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NamesakE

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Repotting reveals what I suspected. Core is all old compact potting soil. No roots. All of the roots are on the outside of the rootball where the old soil has been replaced - nothing on the interior. There are huge encircling roots that have never been touched.

Sigh. This will take many years to correct - good thing I love doing this stuff.

The pictures below were taken after I bare-rooted the front 1/2 of the tree. I spent a solid hour carefully digging out the old potting soil from between the large encircling root and the trunk and then washed out the area with a gentle stream of water. You can see that there are almost no roots there. This is a challenge, because we can’t cut in to the encircling roots without seriously endangering the health of the tree.

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Wow! That tree is much bigger than I thought until I seen you standing next to it! Great trunk and movement
 

roberthu

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I use a fertilizer product called “Microlife”. They have a humate product (0-0-4) that I mix 50-50 with their 8-4-6 product. Here’s why - the mycorrhizal fungi has completely colonized the pot and the root growth has raised the soil in the pot.

View attachment 411039View attachment 411040

It’s getting difficult to water because of the root growth and the fungi colony. I removed the top soil in the following picture - the gray tones in this picture is all mycorrhiza that I exposed:
View attachment 411041
I bought some Microlife after reading your post. Do you attribute the beneficial fungi growth mostly to Microlife? Also, do you think it’s okay to put Microlife in teabags mixed with bio gold? Or should it be mixed with fertilizer in powder form?
Thank you! I have a JBP dug from field last year that can benefit from this product!
 

markyscott

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I bought some Microlife after reading your post. Do you attribute the beneficial fungi growth mostly to Microlife? Also, do you think it’s okay to put Microlife in teabags mixed with bio gold? Or should it be mixed with fertilizer in powder form?
Thank you! I have a JBP dug from field last year that can benefit from this product!
I think microlife helps, but the most important thing is to build a good environment for the spores to grow. Mycorrhizae spores are everywhere and it will develop wherever the soil microenvironment is conducive to growth. I think the pictures show that microlife helps inoculate the soil with the appropriate variety of mycorrhizae for black pines, so I speculate that it may develop faster than without.

Yes - you can mix it with bio gold if you like. the most important thing is that you fertilize.

- Scott
 

Adair M

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What are you going to do when you move to a place where summer doesn’t last 364 days a year?
 

markyscott

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What are you going to do when you move to a place where summer doesn’t last 364 days a year?
People always make fun of Houston weather. In fact, we have all four seasons. First there’s Spring. Then there’s Almost Summer. Then there’s Summer. And finally, there’s Still Summer. See? All four seasons.

- S
 

markyscott

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Cheers! ... from a local package store up MI way!

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Having grown up in Ohio, I’m not allowed to say anything positive about Michigan. But seeing Shiner there in stock makes me have to grudgingly admit that Michigan might have ONE redeeming quality. In this one single small area. Lol

- S
 

Adair M

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People always make fun of Houston weather. In fact, we have all four seasons. First there’s Spring. Then there’s Almost Summer. Then there’s Summer. And finally, there’s Still Summer. See? All four seasons.

- S
Those are all different days?
 
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