I'm looking for Carl's article on photography. I thought I had a link, can't seem to find it. All help appreciated.
Unfortunately most of the information on most digital camera tutorials, (including Carl's) are useless unless you have a 35 mm SLR digital.
No matter how well you frame the picture you will always have mega distortion because of the fisheye lens included in most non SLR digitals.
... looking forward to see it at A of B, or anywhere else for that matter anything that improves what we do is always welcomed.Carl's article is still one of the best on the subject there is, he has a updated article planned but he has been busy lately. Robert Kempinski has written an excellent article on bonsai photography, the first part has been published in the ABS journal and the rest will follow soon. The complete article will be posted hopefully at AoB soon for those who do not subscribe to that excellent publication.
Rick's suggesting the the D50 has a lot of barrel distortion is just as errant. The particular lens that is used /MAY/ have some barrel distortion but the camera is just a means of recording what the lens reflects to the sensor/film.
Thanks Andy. You're not bad yourself.Wayne is correct.
60-90mm effective length is whats recommended for portraiture but longer lengths would be even better. I'm a little concerned with the numbers you've posted in relation to digital/film (small sensors vs. full-size ....and the ensuing zoom involved) as 100mm on my d50 is effectively 150mm while 75 on a full-size sensor/film is effectively 75mm, but either way, these are well beyond the minimum required for portraiture.It is the lens that causes distortion.My recommendation is to place the camera further away.Use a lens length around 100 mm for most digital cameras and 75 for film and digital cameras with a full size sensor.These lengths are slightly telescopic.
Always great advice.Use a tripod and as slow a shutter speed as you can.
Just to be clear, closing down the aperture means making the aperture smaller, but its somewhat counter-intuitive as to how to do that looking at the numbers (f1.4,f4,f8 ....). The higher the number, the smaller the aperture, the smaller the opening inside the lens that allows light to come through.Close down the aperture to increase depth of field with a plain background and increase the aperture to decrease depth of field when shooting against a confusing background.
...no its not.ThomasJ said:It's true that all cameras be it point and shoot or DSLRs will have some barrel distortion
My assertion is that a CAMERA can NOT HAVE BARREL DISTORTION. A lens is free to do as it pleases ...as its the instrument that introduces the distortion. The camera can not. Either the review was errant, or your reading of it was.
quickly ...wikipedia makes no mention of a camera. Only of lenses that suffer from/produce any sort of distortion the two most common linked here:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrel_distortion
edit: It was your reading that was in error. From the review: "Not surprisingly there's a fair amount of barrel distortion on that 18 - 55 mm kit lens. "
about ¾ down the page @ http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/nikon/d50-review/
Thanks Andy, I'll have to chew on that one for a while.Wayne is correct.It is the lens that causes distortion.My recommendation is to place the camera further away.Use a lens length around 100 mm for most digital cameras and 75 for film and digital cameras with a full size sensor.These lengths are slightly telescopic.Use a tripod and as slow a shutter speed as you can.Close down the aperture to increase depth of field with a plain background and increase the aperture to decrease depth of field when shooting against a confusing background.
My question was and remains, if the points Al raised are erroneous then, what is the real difference between an SLR and non SLR camera, in your opinion?
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