penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
Ultimately this is all that matters.
One Infraction Per Season?
- Thread starter dbonsaiw
- Start date
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Acer palmatum?
Acer buergerianum?
Acer ginnela?
Acer campestre?
4 different beasts with different challenges
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
plus a half dozen lesser used............
Acer palmatum?
Acer buergerianum?
Acer ginnela?
Acer campestre?
4 different beasts with different challenges
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Finally Shibui, Leo, and Rock get down to the truth about "one insult per season"....but "bandied about" is my fave!
@dbonsaiw , some thoughts for you to piece together an understanding for yourself.....
It's important to pay attention to how long it takes something to happen in your garden specifically, and on trees in general. It's the combination of these 2 things that will allow you to set the "rules" for your garden.
You must understand the rhythm of trees in your garden.
Mine is sleep/grow/rest/grow/sleep.
Colder is sleep/groow/sleep.
Warmer is sleep/grooow/rest/grooow/sleep.
You're basically allowed one pruning for every "o" in that period. Early springs and good health adds "o"'s, early heat/frost and pests remove "o"'s.
It's when folks go over this limit, that energy is being sapped (aka tree dying slow*) and the rythym becomes fudged and unrecognizable.
(*In this stage, design Always dies first, much time is wasted here, lifetimes!)
Almost every problem happens because folks go over this limit. Repotting becomes more risky, dieback, pests, *death of design loop enters.
In caring for the top to maintain the bottom, a few key things to remember......
The cyclical life loop of roots to branches and back often gets misconstrued as 2 individual directions. Remember it as cyclical.
Apical/vigorous buds grow faster than dormant buds.
Dormant buds grow faster than "active areas".
"Active Areas" grow faster than "inactive areas".
The combination of the above knowledge answers individual questions of "when and how often?".
Repotting as an "infraction", "insult"
, or "move", which is my preffered name for actions......
I have successfully bare rooted a Mugo Pine down to roots so limited, I've failed with Deciduous trees with the same method, one that is used successfully by many other practitioners with D's.
So with that knowledge, every repotting "rule" or belief goes directly out the window for me.
Everything is a strict case by case basis.
Also, due to the large range of "insult" that a repotting can be, from a nursery tree that must be root hacked for aesthetics, to a well established tree that just needs a slight trim, repotting should be considered in a completely different category, completely separate, but with the understanding of it's position in the inevitable cycle.
Gary Wood spoke of "keeping potential problems at bay", I ran with it and made it a thing. PPB.
I love the concept because it is preventative, which is always more efficient.
If you work in this mindset, only stopping problems before they happen, you keep every bit of energy before problems hit. As opposed to removing (energy)everything at once chasing a design.
Imagine one wise Bonsai artist and one foolish Bonsai artist at the top of a hill, each with a skateboard which symbolizes the design.
The foolish Bonsai artist skins his tree to nothing, or drops his skateboard, which begins to roll down the hill, and he goes chasing after it.
The wise Bonsai artist keeps his tree full, or drops his skateboard, which begins to roll down the hill, but he doesn't go chasing after it, he waits patiently till winter when he can slide down on his ass.
Here is one for the books.....
Energy in Design out works.
Design in Energy out does not.
Resorce.
Sorce
@dbonsaiw , some thoughts for you to piece together an understanding for yourself.....
It's important to pay attention to how long it takes something to happen in your garden specifically, and on trees in general. It's the combination of these 2 things that will allow you to set the "rules" for your garden.
You must understand the rhythm of trees in your garden.
Mine is sleep/grow/rest/grow/sleep.
Colder is sleep/groow/sleep.
Warmer is sleep/grooow/rest/grooow/sleep.
You're basically allowed one pruning for every "o" in that period. Early springs and good health adds "o"'s, early heat/frost and pests remove "o"'s.
It's when folks go over this limit, that energy is being sapped (aka tree dying slow*) and the rythym becomes fudged and unrecognizable.
(*In this stage, design Always dies first, much time is wasted here, lifetimes!)
Almost every problem happens because folks go over this limit. Repotting becomes more risky, dieback, pests, *death of design loop enters.
In caring for the top to maintain the bottom, a few key things to remember......
The cyclical life loop of roots to branches and back often gets misconstrued as 2 individual directions. Remember it as cyclical.
Apical/vigorous buds grow faster than dormant buds.
Dormant buds grow faster than "active areas".
"Active Areas" grow faster than "inactive areas".
The combination of the above knowledge answers individual questions of "when and how often?".
Repotting as an "infraction", "insult"
, or "move", which is my preffered name for actions......I have successfully bare rooted a Mugo Pine down to roots so limited, I've failed with Deciduous trees with the same method, one that is used successfully by many other practitioners with D's.
So with that knowledge, every repotting "rule" or belief goes directly out the window for me.
Everything is a strict case by case basis.
Also, due to the large range of "insult" that a repotting can be, from a nursery tree that must be root hacked for aesthetics, to a well established tree that just needs a slight trim, repotting should be considered in a completely different category, completely separate, but with the understanding of it's position in the inevitable cycle.
Gary Wood spoke of "keeping potential problems at bay", I ran with it and made it a thing. PPB.
I love the concept because it is preventative, which is always more efficient.
If you work in this mindset, only stopping problems before they happen, you keep every bit of energy before problems hit. As opposed to removing (energy)everything at once chasing a design.
Imagine one wise Bonsai artist and one foolish Bonsai artist at the top of a hill, each with a skateboard which symbolizes the design.
The foolish Bonsai artist skins his tree to nothing, or drops his skateboard, which begins to roll down the hill, and he goes chasing after it.
The wise Bonsai artist keeps his tree full, or drops his skateboard, which begins to roll down the hill, but he doesn't go chasing after it, he waits patiently till winter when he can slide down on his ass.
Here is one for the books.....
Energy in Design out works.
Design in Energy out does not.
Resorce.
Sorce
AcerAddict
Shohin
ALL of them. I'm the AcerAddict, after all!
Cajunrider
Imperial Masterpiece
Like @sorce said, mine is Sleep Grow Rest Grow then back to Sleep so I am gonna insult the hell out of them twice a year.
Bonsai can never be in my office. One or two insults per year ain't gonna cut it around here. Just walking into a break room this morning can earn me several. No wonder I cannot keep bonsai indoor.
Bonsai can never be in my office. One or two insults per year ain't gonna cut it around here. Just walking into a break room this morning can earn me several. No wonder I cannot keep bonsai indoor.
Ahhhhhh sarcasm; didn't see that.
AcerAddict
Shohin
Yeah, sorry. That's my fault. It's difficult to convey tone via typed words.
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